I'm thinking of this route as I have extra tubs sitting around.
CK5
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82 stepside. Thoughts and crazy ideas
- Thread starter KirsL
- Start date
I'm thinking of this route as I have extra tubs sitting around.
Do you have lots of fine metal in the oil or just the coolant? I have built a ton of semi truck engines with hydraulic lifters and never had issues with contamination in them but they do have lots bigger oil systems to disperse any leftover stuff into after the new engine is built. I guess if they are cheap then it's good insurance to replace them. Cummins used to sell a really good solvent by the gallon. Not sure how expensive it was though. The Cummins warranty guys at the dealer always wanted it to wash down their rebuilds so they didn't have to use the dirty parts washers.
It's mostly an oil/coolant mix but there is some metal. Couple of the mains and a 1/3rd of the rods have had some material ground off. I'd rather go overboard cleaning it.
Yeah can't be too safe cleaning engine parts. So can you just polish the crank or does it need to be sent out? Gonna send out the block to be cleaned at a machine shop also? Some day I have a mechanical 6.5L out of a '92 I was going to build for my K5. I bought it many yrs ago for a good deal but it has sat a long long time now and I suspected it had coolant in the oil at that time and would need a full rebuild anyway but now it might be scary when I finally tear into it.
I'll be cleaning it fully at home. The crank I'll cleanup with a scotchbrite, same with the rods and such.
Sounds odd but actually dawn dish soap makes for really good engine cleaner. They even have a "heavy duty" version.
If water hasn't gotten into that old engine. It can be rebuilt. These are actually pretty easy to work.
Sounds odd but actually dawn dish soap makes for really good engine cleaner. They even have a "heavy duty" version.
If water hasn't gotten into that old engine. It can be rebuilt. These are actually pretty easy to work.
Finally made some progress. Block is all cleaned, said screw it and had it hot tanked and the cam bearing installed. Everything is all nice and clean.
I was able to get the full rotating assembly installed. Still a ways to go, but it's steps forward.
That’s puuuurrrrddddyyyyy!!!!! 
That’s puuuurrrrddddyyyyy!!!!!
Once it's all buttoned up, I'll throw some paint on it.
Almost makes me want to yank mine out and clean it up ... almost
I don't recommend doing all this just to clean the engine 
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Since I just thought of it while in your thread. Do you know anything about swapping my 6.2 oil cooler hoses over to either hyd hoses or braided stainless ones? I have access to making hyd hoses at work so that would be a good route to go but I just haven't checked into the fittings at the block end or if they will easily adapt to the oil cooler end. Just though I'd ask. Thanks
Would they be any different than my oil cooler lines on my 6.5?
You can make the hoses out of whatever you want. The block is tapped to standard NPT threads. Should be either 3/8 or 1/2. From there is doesn't really matter. Just route them so they don't chaff on anything.
Possibly. If he's using the stock 6.2 oil cooler, the lines will route differently and have different ends. The block opening are the same. Gmt-400 trucks with the 6.5 all used a standalone oil cooler.
Made some serious progress today. 
Still a few items to bolt back on. Once I get the exhaust manifolds back on. I can drop it back in. Everything else can be done in the truck.
Still a few items to bolt back on. Once I get the exhaust manifolds back on. I can drop it back in. Everything else can be done in the truck.
Nice work! Coming together nicely!
Thanks! I got it to where it's ready to drop in. But I didn't have any help to do so today.
I'm going to see if one of my coworkers can help next weekend.
No fancy paintjob?
I did a quick spray bomb with some high temp red. But I didn't go crazy.
Merry Christmas folks.
So as the pictures I posted up in the lounge showed I'm finally able to do some much needed work to the old girl. I still have the issue with the torque convertor not locking up. But I had to deal with a separate issue that decided to show up.
The truck had been sitting untouched for about 3 months. So while working on my welding project I decided to fire her up and run some. Well after a quick little charge to the batteries, fired right up. About ten minutes into running I hear the sound I hate, loss of fuel supply.
After some digging and much needed cleaning. I found this.
It's not a major restriction but enough that the pump wouldn't pull enough fuel and was air rating the fuel in the lines I think. Now it's an easy fix, some new fuel lone and be good go to for a few more years. I did notice something I else I don't like though. A fuel leak for that tank. A few years back due to rust issues I changed the one steel tank out for a plastic tank. I wasn't crazy with how the fuel sender was hold in place and now I like it even less.
I'm thinking since the screws just go in the plastic that they don't clamp how on the o-ring enough for it to seal properly. Once I clean it up really good. I think a little silicone or some other semi-flexible sealant will have to be used to keep this leak from returning. Or I'll be buying another steel tank. The last one last 20 years, so why shouldn't the next one.
Now you're probably wondering what is the red thing on the tank. That's a fuel draw straw. I pieced together the fuel pump setup on this truck years ago. But now there's lots of diesel rated pumps to choose from. Plus I'm not crazy about the stock tank selector valve either.
So there's plans in the works to get rid of this giant mess with something way better. Plus I have a couple crazy ideas on how to deal with dual tank's and high volume fuel pumps. We'll see just how good my brain really is
.
Once I get a house I'm definitely installing a lift. So nice being able to stand under the truck to work on it and not have to get up/down 50 million times.
So as the pictures I posted up in the lounge showed I'm finally able to do some much needed work to the old girl. I still have the issue with the torque convertor not locking up. But I had to deal with a separate issue that decided to show up.
The truck had been sitting untouched for about 3 months. So while working on my welding project I decided to fire her up and run some. Well after a quick little charge to the batteries, fired right up. About ten minutes into running I hear the sound I hate, loss of fuel supply.
After some digging and much needed cleaning. I found this.
It's not a major restriction but enough that the pump wouldn't pull enough fuel and was air rating the fuel in the lines I think. Now it's an easy fix, some new fuel lone and be good go to for a few more years. I did notice something I else I don't like though. A fuel leak for that tank. A few years back due to rust issues I changed the one steel tank out for a plastic tank. I wasn't crazy with how the fuel sender was hold in place and now I like it even less.
I'm thinking since the screws just go in the plastic that they don't clamp how on the o-ring enough for it to seal properly. Once I clean it up really good. I think a little silicone or some other semi-flexible sealant will have to be used to keep this leak from returning. Or I'll be buying another steel tank. The last one last 20 years, so why shouldn't the next one.
Now you're probably wondering what is the red thing on the tank. That's a fuel draw straw. I pieced together the fuel pump setup on this truck years ago. But now there's lots of diesel rated pumps to choose from. Plus I'm not crazy about the stock tank selector valve either.
So there's plans in the works to get rid of this giant mess with something way better. Plus I have a couple crazy ideas on how to deal with dual tank's and high volume fuel pumps. We'll see just how good my brain really is
.Once I get a house I'm definitely installing a lift. So nice being able to stand under the truck to work on it and not have to get up/down 50 million times.
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