CK5
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83 gmc jimmy 6.2, mild restoration
- Thread starter Clark0943
- Start date
Ok. Observations:
That receiver hitch looks to be several inches off-center.
Factory AC truck, but the compressor and some of the lines are missing.
Cruise Control is disconnected (but that may have been you getting to the IP).
Resister wire on the driver fender is not original. Wiring does look hacked up.
Does the cold idle advance solenoid (center of last picture) function? Until 1/2-way through warmup, that plunger should be forward, bumping the idle up just a bit. It is adjusted separately from the normal (warm) idle setting. It looks like it is too far away from the lever that it should engage. I took a picture of what mine looks like.
Looks like it's also not the same part (maybe due to having cruise?
).
And if that loose cable end is the T-V cable for the 700R4 transmission, it needs to be hooked up (and resetting it is also a good idea). That sets hydraulic pressure inside the tranny to match the throttle position. Having it disconnected means that your clutches won't engage fully, and they can burn out quickly. It looks like the cable for the cruise control, but I wanna make sure it's not the important one.
That receiver hitch looks to be several inches off-center.
Factory AC truck, but the compressor and some of the lines are missing.
Cruise Control is disconnected (but that may have been you getting to the IP).
Resister wire on the driver fender is not original. Wiring does look hacked up.
Does the cold idle advance solenoid (center of last picture) function? Until 1/2-way through warmup, that plunger should be forward, bumping the idle up just a bit. It is adjusted separately from the normal (warm) idle setting. It looks like it is too far away from the lever that it should engage. I took a picture of what mine looks like.
Looks like it's also not the same part (maybe due to having cruise?
).And if that loose cable end is the T-V cable for the 700R4 transmission, it needs to be hooked up (and resetting it is also a good idea). That sets hydraulic pressure inside the tranny to match the throttle position. Having it disconnected means that your clutches won't engage fully, and they can burn out quickly. It looks like the cable for the cruise control, but I wanna make sure it's not the important one.
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Wiring is indeed hacked up, cruise diaphragm was disconnected when I bought the jimmy, cold idle and high idle advance are both disconnected, I'm trying to set everything back up but I'm having trouble finding instructions and pictures to get everything back to normal, oh and the a/c stuff was also gone when I got the truck, I'm not worried about that until next summer, Any leads on where I can find mounting hardware for an 86 Chevy tailgate I bought to put on the truck? The empty shell that's on it was tack welded in place and bondo over by last owner, I'm just going to install the pick up tailgate and make a plexiglass window
For the pickup tailgate, grab the hardware from any junkyard pickup of similar series. It bolts to the side instead of the bottom.
I've been to four different junk yards and they don't have any gmc or Chevys
Post up here in the "Parts Wanted" section of the classifieds. Someone will probably have what you need.
Dorman sells those "cups" the pickup tailgates pivot on now..if thats what your lacking...
I'm pretty sure Dorman sells everything...insert sarcasm.
I'm glad they do--if they didn't a lot of trucks wouldn't be around !..
I find it ironic though,that now a lot of square bodies have been crushed,you can now buy almost every piece of one,aftermarket..
I'm waiting for a complete aftermarket CAB to be introduced..tired of welding patches and rockers onto rotted ones!..
I find it ironic though,that now a lot of square bodies have been crushed,you can now buy almost every piece of one,aftermarket..
I'm waiting for a complete aftermarket CAB to be introduced..tired of welding patches and rockers onto rotted ones!..
Heck yeah when's Year One or whoever gonna get after that. Maybe I should win the lotto and start a squarebody only junkyard and just go around the southwest buying up every one I see.
New replacement bodies are made...if you have some models of FORD vehicle.
(this is just one example of several OBS bodies being newly manufactured).
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Need help checking the wiring on for my battery gauge, temp gauge and oil gauge, none work, current temp sensor is the button top on drivers side, I just ordered the spade style one, other than that I need to know the others are supposed to be wired/ how to diagnose them and where they are located. Could also use info on how to re connect the cruise control and high idle/ cold idle, everything is disconnected on my truck, but it's all there
Temp. sensor is located at the front of the driver-side head, roughly inline with the injectors & exhaust. The heads match, so there is an identical port at the rear of the passenger head (rotated 180*). That hole gets a temperature *switch* that activates the cold idle solenoids on the IP. One is a plunger that pushes on the throttle linkage, the other one is inside the IP and bumps the timing a bit. These two lugs connect to the green wire snaking over from the temp. switch. If this isn't connected, it is probably the original cause of your crummy idle. The timing bump does help smooth things out when cold.
The oil pressure sensor is on the driver side of the block, below the head, at the very back. It's not easy to see, but you can feel down there and find it. I've found it's easier to reach back behind the glow plug controller (the wire-filled can) from the V-side of the engine and then wrap my hand around the back of the head. It's easier than it sounds, the hardest part is establishing visual contact.
Does the fuel gauge work? If you've lost all the gauges at once, you may well have lost your power feed to the cluster. Check the wiring diagrams and start looking for common links.
I haven't touched my cruise control unit, but it is just a bracket and a linkage. Should be easy enough to figure out. Lemme know if it requires some weird trick to make it work.
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Fuel gauge says 1/4 tank, it's off the road so I haven't driven it very far, just quick trips up the road to get the engine and trans dialed in
It's worth figuring out whether the whole panel is dead before you start checking into each of the sensors. The voltmeter is just running across the power feed, if it has nothing the rest of the gauges probably don't have power, either.
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@campfire I've got the dash removed except for the gauge panel, do I have to remove each gauge and the bulbs in order to remove the mounting panel, or is there a way to remove it all in one shot, the panel won't pull out far enough for me to find the main junction disconnect, so I don't know how to get at it
You shouldn't hafta remove the gauges in order to remove the panel. You're most likely caught up on the speedometer cable, that must be disconnected from the back. Reach up from the bottom and squeeze the small release tab where the cable plugs into the back of the gauge. The wiring should be long enough for the cluster to come out easily once the speedo is disconnected.
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So after having to cut the exhaust out from under my car in the advance auto parking lot I finally made it up to my dads to work on the jimmy, I was able to get the speedo cable disconnected and pulled my gauge panel out. Some of the bulbs weren't lit so I took out the connectors and polished the contacts and I did the same on the main disconnect and used a thin coat of dieletric, now all of my dash lights work but the gauges are still not working, also all my fuses are good, any ideas? One of the clips was missing from behind the voltage gauge so only 2 of the 3 pins were making contact. I'm thinking that maybe all the sensors/ gauges need to be replaced?
Are you sure that you have good voltage feeding to the back of the panel?
IIRC, the voltmeter should only use 2 clips, there shouldn't be a third one in that spot.
