'83 K10 SB "L1TSBFIBBC" build

[folkenheath]

air bumps are the shiznit huh Heath?

Great job on the fab mounting. How is the contact spot when flexing the axles in opposite directions (like offset moguls or the like) Just wondering how big of a contact plate is needed to make sure the piston hits it under extreme flexing?

I really like the air bumps Dave, I think they are a little more maintenance, but worth it. I haven't really flexed it since I put the air bumps in, just driven it offroad at varied speeds. So far the contact marks are smaller than I thought. The leaf spring doesn't move much front to back, only a little, maybe 3/4" max according to the spring arch and flat length(that will vary with your spring arch), but in reality its been much less than that so far, I made the pads really wide(same width as the ubolt plate) but not very long. I expect them to change more during articulation but I don't know how much yet. I do wonder if they will limit articulation since they start pushing 4" before the end of travel. They make 2" travel models but ride is more important than articulation to me.

Beautiful work!

I would love too see some video of your truck in action.

Thanks, I'll work on that. I found out the videos do work on other computers, just not my home computer. I'll have to open a youtube or photobucket thing, since they are over 8 MB I can't host them on my comcast account dillio. Hopefully this week yet, we'll see.

To h3ll with video,,,, I wanna ride in it

Next time we're in the same place with the rigs I'll give you a ride in it. We might be going to silver lake the weekend of July 22nd, come on up and check the place out. It's a fun time, I'll keep you posted.

 

[stumpjump]

Nice work man. The double shear shock mount it slick

 

[shady]

the bumps wont limit travel really. they will go all the way up in fine slowly. but try to push them fast and they give more resistence( hence the bump part of bump stop). they use them in machines to stop things from slaming when they reach the end of there travel, like air cylinders and such. I've played with smaller ones. just a little one, about 1/4" shaft, will push in fine slow then if you try to jam it it WILL hurt your hand before it moves much

 

[folkenheath]

Nice work man. The double shear shock mount it slick

Thanks, I didn't trust a single sheer 1/2" bolt with those shocks, and I wanted to help brace the frame where I notched it.

the bumps wont limit travel really. they will go all the way up in fine slowly. but try to push them fast and they give more resistence( hence the bump part of bump stop). they use them in machines to stop things from slaming when they reach the end of there travel, like air cylinders and such. I've played with smaller ones. just a little one, about 1/4" shaft, will push in fine slow then if you try to jam it it WILL hurt your hand before it moves much

I have used those little dampers you are talking about before, I have one on my desk right now. These air bumps are kind of like that, but I have 150 psi of nitrogen in them (recommended starting point). That pressure will probably more than double at full compression as the volume is reduced, which would be 300 psi. I think the piston is probably at least 2 1/4", so that would be 4 sq inches, at 300 psi thats 1200 lbs to compress it all the way. Now you could lower the pressure for low speed articulation, but I would guess that 1200 lbs would definitely limit your uptravel at low speed. I cannot move them by hand at all, not even slowly, unlike the little damper on my desk. They say you can run as low as 50 psi starting pressure, but depending on your units they might not extend all the way or quick enough with low pressure.

So I think they might, but I haven't tried it yet so I don't know.

 

[folkenheath]

sound video clip

OK, here is my first ever youtube post. But I can't hear anything? However, the same thing happened with this computer with the actual video, so my question is, can you guys hear the sound?

If so, I have a couple more I could post up later. If not, I need to fix it sometime.

BTW, I think I am going to lower the front 1/2 - 1", the back settled a little (even though they were old springs), and it's level, but I like the front slightly lower.

 

[76zimmer]

I like what I'm hearing Heath. Sounds great!

 

[y5mgisi]

I can hear it! Sounds bad ass!

 

[folkenheath]

I like what I'm hearing Heath. Sounds great!

I can hear it! Sounds bad ass!

Thanks guys, I really like the new Flowmasters, I'll work on getting a couple vids up from the SL trip.

 

[folkenheath]

Well, the first vid is a short vid of me going over a hill, kind of boring. I wasn't trying to jump it or anything, and then I was going so slow after I went over the hill my truck went over the dips instead of absorbing them, and you can hear the tailgate rattling, It actually felt like the most bobbled part of the day. But I do like that you can hear how the truck sounds and low RPM low throttle with a load, and I like that you can see the front suspension extend and compress.

The next video is some quads racing. My brother is in the bright yellow Suzuki LTR450 race/sport quad, has a pipe, cherry bomb, and K&N with no airbox lid (has prefilter). Pretty fast. My Dad is on the 87 Suzuki Quadzilla 500, which is bored to 522 and has an FMF pipe, a larger carb, and rejetted. The thing rips. It got a little faster the next day and would then beat the LTR450. Would pop wheelies in 3rd gear by accident. Once the quadzilla had fresh fuel, it could beat us all. The blue one is a stock 700 Raptor I think, don't know what the rest are.

The last video is my truck vs the LTR450. My brother and I have had a side bet going for a few years, my truck vs his quad, but I would always brake a dirveshaft or something before we could race. Now it was on, it was fun. He would beat me off the line before I got my launch down. But after I got my launch down I would hold him off the line, and then half track I would start to pull away from him further, was entertaining! My Dad must of started the video the exact moment he dropped the go arm, because we had just started the drag.

I guess we need to video from the finish line in the future, because the angle makes it look like the quad one, but I started pulling more distance after we passed my Dad videoing.

 

[nvrenuf]

Love the driveway video, thanks for posting it. Heath that truck is super nice & clean and the dash is gorgeous! The motor sounds super sweet.

 

[Deuling]

Sounds great DUDE!!!
Now set the camera down behind it and give her a nice rev please

 

[jekquistk5]

I love the sound!!! Can't really hear the quad

 

[max 02]

Those were great! Keep them coming.

 

[folkenheath]

Love the driveway video, thanks for posting it. Heath that truck is super nice & clean and the dash is gorgeous! The motor sounds super sweet.

Thank you, and I didn't think the driveway video would be the favorite. The dashpad does have several cracks around the speaker vents, but that doesn't bother me much really.

Sounds great DUDE!!!
Now set the camera down behind it and give her a nice rev please

Thanks Adam, and I'll keep that in mind, but it might be a couple weeks.

I love the sound!!! Can't really hear the quad

Thansk Jess, I can definitely hear the quad, especially at the end.(I almost think there may have been another quad behind the camera at that point? It sounds funny to me, it's like a 9 cylinder with one cylinder faster than the rest!

Those were great! Keep them coming.

Thank you. I'll try and get some more the next trip out.

 

[NorCal69]

Wow Heath, the truck sounds and looks great. I'm sure it had to be fun ribbing your brother a little after you had beat him.

Great Job..

 

[folkenheath]

Wow Heath, the truck sounds and looks great. I'm sure it had to be fun ribbing your brother a little after you had beat him.

Great Job..

Thanks, yeah, it was pretty entertaining. We all had a good time.

 

[DrkZide]

Definitely loving the entire build. I would do the same if I had your fab skills. I might do the rear but the front is a little beyond me.

What model Flowmasters are you running? What brand shock and bumpstops? I was thinking of going either Bilstein or Fox with remote reservoirs but I can't make out what yours are.

 

[folkenheath]

Definitely loving the entire build. I would do the same if I had your fab skills. I might do the rear but the front is a little beyond me.

What model Flowmasters are you running? What brand shock and bumpstops? I was thinking of going either Bilstein or Fox with remote reservoirs but I can't make out what yours are.

Thank you, the front isn't that difficult, it's just making everything fit without hitting each other under articulation, steering, etc that was VERY timeconsuming, took much longer than I had expected. I give people more credit now when I see custom links because it takes a lot of time to sort out, and there would be two more frame mounts for a 4 link.

The flowmasters are the "50 series big block" mufflers (larger than the regular 50 series). They are 22"L x 12"W x 5"H, huge mufflers. Supposedly the quietest they make but still flow well because of the size. If I didn't have to worry about the noise restrictions in Silver Lake I would of just gotten 40 series or regular 50 series.

The shocks and bumps are all FOA.

http://www.f-o-a.com/

Here is my take on them. The design is pretty good, solid construction, rebuildable, all o-ring seals, revalveable, very simple, effective (same shims as King, etc). The customer service is good, JD is a pleasure to talk to and very helpful, they are custom valved to your vehicle specs as a starting point, pretty fast delivery compared to other custom jobs, etc.

However, their quality control sucks. The maching tolerances are not the best, and they always have burrs in them and some scratches inside. It seems to be getting better with time, however, over half the stuff I receive I have to "fix" because they arrived with something wrong. (damaged shafts, improperly machined shafts that caused no compression dampening, leaking seals, etc) They always give me the repair parts for free (and offer to fix them for me for free, but that takes too long, I only did that once). When they are working, and not leaking, they work great, I really like the performance. The problem is, you spend a lot of time getting them to that point.

So if you want to buy them to save money, I would plan on rebuilding them (might as well put some Amsoil #5 Synthetic shock oil in while you are at it, it's not much more than the hydraulic oil they sell for $25 a gallon). Each 2.0 shock takes less than a quart, each 2.5 shock takes over a quart, you could probably get away with 3 quarts per pair on the 2.5s.

You'll need to remove all the burrs, clean out the seal surfaces, check all seals for any tears, cuts, and use some fine (400 grit is what I used) sandpaper to smooth the scratched seal surfaces inside the tubes by hand.

Anyway, after that they are pretty good, and they are a great price, but if I had the money to do it over I would probably get Fox, King, or Swayaway instead. Those are just so darned expensive though! It hasn't cost me a dime for any mor eparts or seals, they send it all out right away. But it sure has cost me a LOT of time and I am getting tired of taking my front shocks in/out.

If you can afford Fox, SAW, or King, get them.

 

[bhays]

Awsome build! One one of the cheanest SB I have seen in awhile!

 

[bhays]

That is a little more complicated. It started out as a simple enough solution, but it got pretty complicated by the time my friend Scott (he is an EE) finished the circuit because I was asking for it to do more stuff and he had good ideas to implement it. If it wasn't for him, I would of had ot buy two EFI walbro pumps, two TBI tanks, and two TBI sending units, (or switch to a blazer tank) because there is no way I could of designed the circuit, that was all his knowledge, and I thank him for that. It's programmable, and he also wrote the programming code to make it work.

It looks like this...

I haven't put the enclosure on it yet, it will mount under the dash near the factory tank switch. The switch in the right is the ""revert to one tank" switch, it turns everything off and displays the passenger side tank level on the gauge in case something goes wrong. The passenger side tank is my primary tank, the drivers side is the auxilliary one, this is because the fuel inlet for the fast injection is on that side, plus the factory fuel line routing is already there too, easier to attach the new stuff. There is a connector on the other side, that has 8 terminals for input:

- switched 12V
- ground
- primary (PS) tank from factory tank switch
- secondary (DS) tank from factory tank switch
- primary tank sending unit
- secondary tank sending unit
- fuel gauge sender wire
- wire for relay that turns on aux fuel pump relay by switching to ground

So, I just bought this little pump...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACF-EP12S/

It is a low pressure pump that came with 3/8" hose inlet/outlet and mounting hardware. It is turned on by a standard relay, that is controlled by that PCB above. Much simpler plumbing with one system. I just bought a brass PEX 3/4x1/2x3/4 T fitting at Lowes, and plumbed the transfer line into the vent hose for the filler neck (my brothers idea).

My truck was carbed before, so it was cheaper for me to do this, or if you just think it's cool to have aux pump control this will work great. (assuming your friend is willing to design a circuit for you, or you are an EE). Or you could just put a seperate switch in to turn the transfer pump on and off. But knowing me I would forget to turn it off, and it would run dry, or start pouring fuel out the vent hose on the other tank, so I thought that was a little dangerous. With this circuit, it won't do that. Plus just touching the button will switch which side the gauge is displaying without actually changing anything(my friends solution).

However, if you already have a dual tank TBI setup, it's cheaper to just get two walbro pumps and put them into a Y fitting on the high pressure side (supply), and just use the solenoid valve to control the return line (low pressure) side. Then the wiring is already there to control both pumps too, you just need new pumps. The walbro pumps have a built in check valve to maintain injector pressure after prime, so the fuel in the supply side will only be able to go one way, you don't need to use the solenoid valve on the supply side, which may leak because of the pressure, and could also limit flow depending on your HP level.

To be honest, I have the EFI all wired up, but still need to run the extra wires for the fuel pumps. He said it tested out fine but I haven't actually installed it on the truck yet (we did test a prototype before though).

Do you guys have anymore of these modules around. I am working on a CCSB project and though this would work great using side tanks and a blazer tank for extend range when I convert it to a diesel. Thanks!