What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'83 k30 Project

greatwhitez71

greatwhitez71

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 5, 2004
Posts
483
Reaction score
206
Location
TX
great.jpg

A few of you may remember the '88 V30 I had and then sold.
Here's the old thread:
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/the-88-crew-cab-nameless.303966/

As it usually goes, some time went on and I really started to regret selling that truck. But the cab and body where in really good shape and with that wheel base it never would have been much of a wheeler, I dang sure would never have been able to cut it up.

So last week this popped up on craigslist.


1983 K30
350/sm465/205
D60/gm14
(Supposedly 4.56 gears, need to verify)

Called the guy up, got a few pictures of the "rust issues" and a couple of days later, with a mild hangover and very little sleep, the old man and I had trailer in tow and were headed to Austin. Also scored a motor and tranny-less 80 soemthing model 3/4 ton 4x4 'burban for parts and scrap along with the deal.



From what I can tell the truck has a 4" procomp lift on it (blocks out back) and some 305/70r16 BFG's
We had to through some rollers on the front just to be able to squeeze the rig on the trailer.

Rear shot










When I saw that "Don't mess with Texas sticker I couldn't get my money out of pocket fast enough"


Thus far the battery has been replaced, headlights straightened out, added new battery cables, set the timing more advanced and was finally able to tune the carb for a smoother idle and run. Motor feels pretty healthy and the truck drives and handles like you would expect.

I'm somewhat expecting some sort of locker out back, it just feels like it and both tires pull when you try to break them loose.
Also, like I said above I need to verify what gears this thing actually has and go from there.

Plans right now:
-Replace a few various seals that are leaking, specifically the t-case and axles.
-Check all the u-joints replace the ones that need it.
-Motor is good on oil, need to check all the other fluids.
-Work on getting the truck registered.

Build ideas:
- Id like to jerk the electric fuel pump and both saddle tanks and install a suburban or k5 tank.
-ditch the block out back and go shackle flip and flip the u-bolt plates.
-All new bushings in the springs and beef up the front shackle hanger setup (FUSH or DIY)
-Find some bigger tires, 37 or so for now.
-Move the front axle forward an inch.
-Find 2wd steering box and go cross-over.
-Eventually we have a built BBC sitting in the shed that we want to install.

That's it for now, Ill try to keep this updated. This site is really helpful and I've been out of the wrenching game for awhile.
 
Thanks y'all. I'm Pretty pumped about it. Going to try and keep it to the basics for the time being and not sink a ton of money into it and actually keep it good and functional.
 
I've been researching a bit but until I find what i'm looking for ill just ask here.
The rear lift on the truck is accomplished via block (typical 4" lift "kit" scenario) Im getting ready to go shackle flip out back and I have a few options.

A. DIY kit with cross-tied shackles.
B. ORD 4" with UDSR shackles in stock size
C. ORD 2.5" with a 6" UDSR shackle

I have experience with ORD and they have never let me down but I hear a lot of praise for the DIY kit also.
My other question is, Will the 2.5" kit with the longer shackle net the same amount of lift and would there be any actual advantage to going this route.

Also, while i'm back there i'm going to flip the u-bolts since I already have a spare set of spring plates sitting around for a 14 bolt, I just need to double check what type of perches are on the axle for sure because its likely ill need different ones if I want to push the axle back a bit or I'll have to add a "0" rate.

Thoughts?
 
greatwhitez71 said:
My other question is, Will the 2.5" kit with the longer shackle net the same amount of lift and would there be any actual advantage to going this route.
Click to expand...

No that setup will not net you the same amount of lift. Once you flip the shackle via these kits, by increasing the shackle length by 1", you net 0.5" of lift to the truck. So since the stock shackle is 4" long, by going to a 6" shackle, that will get you 1" total of lift. Combined with the 2.5" flip bracket, you will have 3.5" of total lift. Not a huge deal, you could just use a zero rate in the rear too and it should set the truck pretty much level with the 4" springs in the front.

As far as which kit is "better"....don't think there is an answer to that. Both ORD's and DIY's flip kit's are top notch. Really doesn't matter which one you go with, you will be in good shape (and both are about the same amount of $ too).

I like to spread the wealth between both companies cause I like them both and want them both to stay around. I ended up using ORD's 4" flip brackets using 56" springs in the rear (flipped brackets side to side from how ORD says to normally install them) then used 6" UDSR shackles from DIY along with their zero rates. Nets right around 5" of overall length. What length springs are in the rear of this thing right now?
 
Appreciate the info, I wasn't taking into consideration that 1 more inch of shackle is usually only .5" of lift

Its one ton so its a safe bet to say they're 56" springs

I'm With you on the spread the wealth notion, both companies have always done good with me in the past.
 
So, no new build progress. I'm currently in the process of recouping some funds.
I did get the truck registered and insured so now its good for weekend run around duty.

Also, I was installing a cab marker lens Saturday and noticed a sticker that said "department of defense" in the top center of the windshield.
Could this possibly explain the truck having 4.56 gears, if it actually does.

I need to pick up some oil this weekend and pull the rear and front covers and confirm.
 
Managed to make a little progress this weekend on the suburban tank swap.

We started out Saturday morning and pulled the bed, Thank god for chain hoists.


After that we moved from the dusty dim-lit tractor barn to Pop's driveway where we had a cleaner, more level surface and less clutter. Got a few jack-stands under the tank and started mock up. Originally We had intended to go with a 40 gallon tank but we decided to proceed with caution and went with a 31 gallon.
(In the first few pictures you will notice the filler on the passenger side, we eventually spun the tank 180 degree's due to the contour of the tank bottom it would sit more level in the straps.)

Here's the mock up, then removing the passenger side spring perch and also smoothed out that back cross-member lip.






With no good donor vehicles around we took a swing and just ran with the factory rear cross-member and used a heavy piece of angle iron for the front straps... we ended up shortening the top straps and used them to limit how high the lower straps could pull the tank up. Then used some heavy rubber to insulate the metal to metal contact.





After all that, we managed to wrestle out the old tanks, organized the aftermarket fuel pump one of the previous owners had installed and figured out which wires we needed and spliced it all back in.





For the next two weeks Ill be tied up out of town but in the mean time Ill be ordering up a DIY4x inboarding setup for the shocks, either a DIY or ORD shackle flip to ditch the blocks, some new u-bolts, longer brake lines and probably some front end goodies as well. Also ordered up some new poly bushings for the front and rear springs.
Once all that's out of the way we will tackle modifying the bed support beam and reinstalling the bed and routing the filler hose.

Enjoy.
 
Just got off the phone with ORD, more goodies are on the way! Mainly stuff to ditch The rear block and beef of the shackles front and rear then crossover steering and brake lines.
Also went ahead and decide to twin stick the 205 since I need to pull it and replace seals anyhow.
 
Any plans to change the filler location? Might be a tight squeeze between the bed and frame where it is now? I ended up using some 1" pucks to give me a little extra clearance.
 
I'm not really sure to be honest. Once the bed is back down we're going to address the issue. Right now I think I'll just run it up behind the driver side fender well
 
I'm beginning to not mind the fuel pump, but man it sure makes a little racket when you turn the key on, I didn't know what was going on until I crawled under the truck for the first time and saw it.
 
No it isn't, I may look into putting a small piece behind it. I think that's just the noise it makes when its running but vibrations could be part of it.
Appreciate the info
 
No it isn't, I may look into putting a small piece behind it. I think that's just the noise it makes when its running but vibrations could be part of it.
Appreciate the info
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom