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83 K5 sloppy steering with videos

Frame is cracked at the top rear bolt. But I do not think that is your issue you are fighting now. The other 3 look fine.

You really need to get a second person there to move the wheel while you crawl around under looking for what is moving.
 
You should clean this up and see if it's cracked. Some people never even find the cracks until the steering box has been pulled from the frame. Also, this "slight wiggle" testing is good for finding the loosest/weakest spot, but some of the big noisy issues don't happen until you get a lot of steering torque pulling things around.

I still think you'll be changing the ball joints, and at least that makes checking the U-joints easy, but you want to cover all of your bases here. Most will recommend adding the steering box brace, as it both protects the frame and reduces slop in the steering. https://www.offroaddesign.com/bolt-in-steering-box-brace-for-81-91-gm-4wd-trucks.html


crack.JPG
 
Blue85 said:
You should clean this up and see if it's cracked. Some people never even find the cracks until the steering box has been pulled from the frame. Also, this "slight wiggle" testing is good for finding the loosest/weakest spot, but some of the big noisy issues don't happen until you get a lot of steering torque pulling things around.

I still think you'll be changing the ball joints, and at least that makes checking the U-joints easy, but you want to cover all of your bases here. Most will recommend adding the steering box brace, as it both protects the frame and reduces slop in the steering. https://www.offroaddesign.com/bolt-in-steering-box-brace-for-81-91-gm-4wd-trucks.html


View attachment 440221
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I posted some videos yesterday where I was turning the steering wheel 90 degrees in each direction with some significant resistance. Maybe they could help.

The nearest member is 90 minutes away. I wouldn’t trust the vehicle for that long. It is drivable, but I would only do it in town.
 
Yes the rust on that top rear bolt tells me it is moving. I also suspect that it cracked right there. The drag link end at pitman is bad. I can not see the steering arm end. Also the box appears to have a lot of slop going by how far the rag joint turns and how little the pitman moves.


I recommend a full rebuild, the right side ball joints did appear to move in one of the early videos. I would win more bets than lose, condemning 10B and Dana44 ball joints site unseen. They are a wear item. Get good quality replacement parts. AC Delco, Moog, TRW. For the gear box purchase local, you may need to return any rebuilds I suggest a quality parts supplier as well, like Napa. I am almost convinced Autozone and O'Reilly's rebuilds just wash and paint. Be sure to inspect the bolt, and hose fitting threads before leaving the parts counter. Don't forget those spring eye bushings. Be sure to inspect the Front Upper Shackle Hanger (fush) bushing as well.

20210507_132207_Film1.jpg
This what mine looked like, steering was good even with these blown out bushing. The springs and bushing were aftermarket, the Fush bushing were factory

There is an update that many of do, https://ck5.com/forums/threads/xj-steering-shaft.345415/ . Also Chevy Express Van shaft has been mentioned as working and fitting better but I can't find the thread atm.
 
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Jump on RockAuto and put AC Delco or MOOG parts in for the drag link ends, tie rod ends and balljoints. You could talk yourself out of some of the parts by verifying they are good, but it's less work to do it all at once - especially considering your ball joints will be out. If you don't have pullers/pickle forks, the parts stores loan them out (with deposit), and be sure to get their ball joint press. You will also need a torque wrench, the special socket for the bearing nuts and the spanner socket for the ball joint adjuster.

Then consider upgraded bushings like what ORD sells, rather than more stock ones.

For the axle U-joints, I like to use Spicer, but many stores don't stock them, so it's best to order ahead. You want orange box real Spicers, not the blue box SVL. If in doubt ask before ordering, I've seen many listed with the wrong pictures.

If you've never done ball joints before, you should budget an entire day to do both sides.
 
Personally, I would leave the rag joint in there, as it appears to be fine. The bigger question is a potentially cracked frame. You should probably pull the steering box off to get a better look. There are plenty of threads on here about how to repair that.
 
All said and done with steering box, pressure hoses, axle u joints, hub seals, oils and grease,
possibly new wheel bearings, 800 to grand.
Keep your old box until job is done and you have a good working box. Definitely replace that rag joint, don't get a poly one
 
The frame will tell the tale when the box is outta the way and wire brushed
 
Wes Harden said:
All said and done with steering box, pressure hoses, axle u joints, hub seals, oils and grease,
possibly new wheel bearings, 800 to grand.
Keep your old box until job is done and you have a good working box. Definitely replace that rag joint, don't get a poly one
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So I jacked up the truck, turned the key to on, spun both tires and did the 9-3 jiggle and the 12-6 jiggle. With the exception of movement due to the tires being under inflated, I could see no movement on the rim when wiggling left-right and up down. I thought the tires spinning made more noise then they should, but maybe you will think it is normal. The second video doesn’t show the right side spinning, but it made the same noise and spun for about the same time. See two videos below

Left side jacked up

Right side jacked up
 
That noise from pulling on the top and bottom of the tire is probably wasted ball joints. Now, some of your bad steering could be caused by bad wheel bearings (or adjusting nut backed off), which we haven't discussed yet in this thread, but the fact your left/right test shows no movement implies the bearings aren't the problem. The noise rotating the tire could very well just be the brakes, which always have some level of drag - especially if it hasn't been driven recently.
 
Agree with advice above about might as well. If you’re doing the ball joints might as well do everything else, including wheel bearings and axle u joints.
I prefer to get my axle parts from Denny’s.
www.dennysdriveshaft.com

8.5 inch 10 Bolt 4X4 corporate front axle and differential parts for 1978 to 1991 Chevy GMC K5, K10, K15, K20, K25, K30, K35 trucks

GM Corporate 8.5 inch 10 bolt front axle and differential parts including universal joints, axle shafts, wheel bearings, ball joints, spindles, gears, diff carrier, spider gears, bearing kits, shims, crush collar, seals, spindle nuts, pinion yokes and more at Denny's Driveshafts
www.dennysdriveshaft.com
 
Very good, the noise does sound like something dragging. Now video sounds are difficult for me, hearing disability, but that sound would have me investigating. To me it sounds like a rock or some debris is between the rotor and the dust shield. Could also be the low brake pad warning device.

For the 12 to 6 check, jack up and use a pry bar at 6 upward movement and watch the ball joints if they move up they are bad. They need to obviously shot to get much movement by hand.
 
Wes Harden said:
Very good, the noise does sound like something dragging. Now video sounds are difficult for me, hearing disability, but that sound would have me investigating. To me it sounds like a rock or some debris is between the rotor and the dust shield. Could also be the low brake pad warning device.

For the 12 to 6 check, jack up and use a pry bar at 6 upward movement and watch the ball joints if they move up they are bad. They need to obviously shot to get much movement by hand.
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Yes, you either need a helper or use your foot/leg on the pry bar while watching the ball joints. Wiggling does no good.
 
Wes Harden said:
All said and done with steering box, pressure hoses, axle u joints, hub seals, oils and grease,
possibly new wheel bearings, 800 to grand.
Keep your old box until job is done and you have a good working box. Definitely replace that rag joint, don't get a poly one
Click to expand...
We have decided to rebuild the front end from the point where the steering column meets the fabric joint forward. I don’t want to have to take things apart multiple times.

Do you have (or can you make) a quick schematic of the parts so I don’t miss anything when ordering?
 
LMC Truck has pretty good exploded views

Home Page - LMC Truck

Shop from thousands of parts and accessories to help you restore, maintain, and customize your Chevrolet, GMC, Dodge or Ford truck or SUV. Keep 'em on the road with the right part, right price, right now.
www.lmctruck.com www.lmctruck.com
 
If you can get your Steering Box from Red Head Gears (1-800-808-1148) they do it right. They cost more, but for peace of mind well worth it. Plus do everything everyone has mentioned here, everything looks worn in the videos.
 
Ok so finally pooled some cash to do this front end!

So we (my 18 year old son and I) are going to rebuild the front end due to sloppy steering. We took off the drag link and the tie rod and the locking hub (or at least part of it).

My questions are: 1) do I have to take the rest of the rotor, spindle etc off to get access to the ball joints, 2) if no, but it is a good idea anyway to change the u-joint, then yes, remove everything? 3) do I have to replace the center pieces of the drag link and tie rod?

Thanks as always for the help!

Progress Day One video
 
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