83 K5 sloppy steering with videos

[Aviodont]

The lower nuts are thread pinch lock type nuts, and have tendency to turn the ball stud instead of drawing it up tight. If you can't get a good friction fit on the taper, it can be a pita. Old nut has less of the lock so less chance of spinning ball stud.

so would you A) just go with old nut permanently, or B) go with the old lower nut to get the upper bushing and upper nut situated, then remove old nut and replace with new lower nut?

do both nuts get thread lock applied? Brandon’s (ftn96) instructions only mentioned the lower nut.

Also, in photo of my last post , which fitting would you place in the lower joint?

 

[Blue85]

The final assembly will be with the new nut.

The idea behind the plug is that it won't get broken off the bottom joint and won't interfere with the axle on the top joint. So after final assembly, put in the zerk, pump the joint full of grease, remove the zerk and install the plug. You keep the zerk for future maintenance.

@Wes Harden is wheeling at Blazer Bash.

 

[Aviodont]

that’s awesome!

I went looking for the old lower nuts but could only find one. And the threads are messed up such that it will only go one 1/2 turn one way and one turn from the other side. I guess I could force them on but I think that would be bad.

So, do I have any other options besides:
A) using the old upper castle nut, B) go to the hardware or auto parts store and try to find a similar nut, or C) use the new nut? What do you think?

....

@Wes Harden is wheeling at Blazer Bash.

that’s awesome!

I found a replacement nut at oreily’s since mine was stripped.


So I am lifting the knuckle up and the lower rubber boot is compressing unevenly. As you can see from the photos, I still have a lot to raise it. Should I fill steam ahead, or retry to keep the boot compressed more evenly?

Also, should I grease now or once they are compressed? They seem to come pre-greased.

 

[imiceman44]

that’s awesome!

I found a replacement nut at oreily’s since mine was stripped.


So I am lifting the knuckle up and the lower rubber boot is. It compressing evenly. As you can see from the photos, I still have a lot to raise it. Should I fill steam ahead, or retry to keep the boot compressed more evenly?

Also, should I grease now or once they are compressed? They seem to come pre-greased.

View attachment 456930

View attachment 456931

Grease after

 

[Blue85]

These tall ball joint boots are new to me. It seems best to keep it as centered as you can, but the taper of the stud is going to have to guide it or you won't have any options.

The grease gun comes out after everything is bolted in position. Greasing early is just more that squishes out. The grease in it from the factory is just to keep moisture and rust out. Go ahead and purge all of that with your good grease.

 

[Wes Harden]

Option B, lock tite is almost never a bad thing. If you fell like it a small bit on the new lower lock nut us fine.
The upper ball joint will need the zero plug. After you have both the ball joints torqued, gease them, remove zero and plug upper, lower is optional. The wheel will provide protection to zerk.
The axle shaft will take out any zero in the upper.

 

[Aviodont]

So I tightened the new nut (which I will remove) that I bought today on the lower to 80, while turning the knuckle back and forth. Then I tightened the bushing while turning the knuckle back and forth. As I got to 50, it is almost impossible to turn the knuckle. Of course I could probably hit the gym a little more, but I really have to get off my knees and butt and use my weight to turn it. Is that normal?

Hope you are having a blast at the Blazer Bash

 

[imiceman44]

So I tightened the new nut (which I will remove) that I bought today on the lower to 80, while turning the knuckle back and forth. Then I tightened the bushing while turning the knuckle back and forth. As I got to 50, it is almost impossible to turn the knuckle. Of course I could probably hit the gym a little more, but I really have to get off my knees and butt and use my weight to turn it. Is that normal?

Hope you are having a blast at the Blazer Bash

I am not sure I understand the procedure you are doing but the bushing needs to be snug, just a little preload and then tighten the nut on top.
That should make it turn easier.
I never checked torque on it but I doubt I reached 50.
But once you tighten the top nut it should loosen a little

 

[Blue85]

You may have trouble turning the adjuster sleeve with the bottom nut tight, but you're looking to take out all the play and apply just a bit of preload. IIRC you have to go a little light with the adjuster because the whole thing gets slightly stiffer as the top nut is torqued.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/d44-ball-joint-install-questions.330042/#post-3766672

Sadly, not much information in the old Haynes book. Maybe that's why I haven't gotten it out in like 15 years.

 

[Wes Harden]

The factory spec is 50ft pd on the sleeve. If you have a spring scale, check how many foot pounds to start turning. No tie rod, or drag link. Should start turning at no more 26 ft pd. If it is more back the sleeve off a tiny bit at time.
Can't set the the preload if lower is not tight and torqued

 

[Aviodont]

The factory spec is 50ft pd on the sleeve. If you have a spring scale, check how many foot pounds to start turning. No tie rod, or drag link. Should start turning at no more 26 ft pd. If it is more back the sleeve off a tiny bit at time.
Can't set the the preload if lower is not tight and torqued

I know it is not exact, but I took the bathroom scale and pushed on the knuckle at the tie rod hole. The tie rod was not connected and the upper not is not on. The lower nut and bushing are torqued to 80 and 25.

In reviewing the video below, I notice I have a grunt at the end to make it more funny for y’all.

I am getting readings of 80-100 pounds of force on the scale before the knuckle gives.

 

[Wes Harden]

That to much, I would tighten the upper and check it again, before I change the sleeve torque

 

[Aviodont]

That to much, I would tighten the upper and check it again, before I change the sleeve torque

Ok, before I do that I may have an issue. When I took the knuckle off, there was this strange shaped washer under the castle nut (see photo). I assume the ball stud was coming out of the top of the knuckle at an angle, so this washer was needed. Now however, the ball stud comes straight out and the castle nut sits flat, although this leaves a slight asymmetry where the boot touches the knuckle (see photo). Should I bend the ball stud back so that it requires the washer under the castle nut?

 

[Wes Harden]

The boot really doesn't matter, what does is the ball stud is fully seated in the tapper. When you add grease to the Ball joint it will balloon out, and fill the voids.
Have not seen that washer on any of recent jobs. Am wondering if old upper sleeve was an eccentric used to adjust caster or camber in the past.

Edit nice upper ball joint, I wish mine had the zerk on the side like that instead of the bottom

 

[imiceman44]

Ok, before I do that I may have an issue. When I took the knuckle off, there was this strange shaped washer under the castle nut (see photo). I assume the ball stud was coming out of the top of the knuckle at an angle, so this washer was needed. Now however, the ball stud comes straight out and the castle nut sits flat, although this leaves a slight asymmetry where the boot touches the knuckle (see photo). Should I bend the ball stud back so that it requires the washer under the castle nut?

View attachment 457028

View attachment 457029


View attachment 457030

That tapered washer is useful, I would use it if it's getting the ball joint more aligned

 

[Aviodont]

The boot really doesn't matter, what does is the ball stud is fully seated in the tapper. When you add grease to the Ball joint it will balloon out, and fill the voids.
Have not seen that washer on any of recent jobs. Am wondering if old upper sleeve was an eccentric used to adjust caster or camber in the past.

Edit nice upper ball joint, I wish mine had the zerk on the side like that instead of the bottom

You were right about the upper sleeve being eccentric. It was when I found it. I left the washers out for two reasons: 1. The stud is straight when compared to the ball joint housing and it sticks straight through the knuckle and 2. I can’t find the driver’s side washer and don’t want to be asymmetrical.

I could not believe my eyes (or my hands) when I tightened the upper castle nut.... instead of binding down the whole setup and making it even tighter, the things got looser! I still don’t understand, but I am not complaining. When I did my highly scientific bathroom scale method, it only took 25 pounds of pushing to get the knuckle to turn.

Thanks for all the help.

I hope you had a lot of fun at the Bash!

 

[Blue85]

Maybe the upper stud wasn't properly seated until the sleeve turned.

 

[Blue85]

Here's the real manual:

 

[Aviodont]

I was watching a YouTube video online about reinstalling the spindle and seals and came across a metal spacer that was not on the vehicle when I disassembled it. All that was present on mine (going from the inside towards the outside) was: the soft large seal with two flanges stuck right up against the U joint, then the bevel plastic washer, then the seal with channel on one side. But in the video (granted it was a K10 or K20 I think), there appears to be a metal seal. I will post a still picture of the video showing the metal seal. Do I need to get that?

 

[Wes Harden]

That was on the axle stub shaft