Any chance you have the M1009 rifle rack that mounts behind the driver's seat? I'd be interested in that...
CK5
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83' M1009 Rebuild to Civilian
- Thread starter Massboy
- Start date
Any chance you have the M1009 rifle rack that mounts behind the driver's seat? I'd be interested in that...
The bottom sheet metal butt stock rectangles are gone but I have the spring loaded forearm keepers I believe. I will check.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
We need pitchers!!!!!
Here are some pictures about two weeks old of the frame. I'm not doing a total rebuild like opening the rears or removing the axles etc. This blazer had 34k original and has sat in my garage for the last 4-5 yrs waiting for this rebuild to start. I kept driving my other M1009 until it finally rotted away. During these past years I looked for donor parts and found an 86 original 6.2 that was no longer road worthy (motor tired, rusty) but in otherwise very usable condition. So now I have a 30 x 60 garage that is loaded with lots of interior and sheet metal blazer parts that will all go together into this one truck. Then I will have more odds and ends to sell. The pictures show the condition of the frame and the 91 6.2 w/700R sitting in it. More pictures to come as I take them and now I will take more because I can post them.
Ted
Ted
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Figured it out. Due to picture size I have to download one at a time. The exhaust looks pretty shabby but its really only surface rust. I put the passenger side front pipe new but that's it. The mufflers are the real HD units with the welded on hanger tabs at the rear. I priced out new ones and they wanted almost $200 for each just because of the tab! I bet you'll be seeing more of these parts coming available on the Gov. auctions sites as the motor pools liquidate their parts.
Got some more pictures. Got my new oil pan on, new TV cable, rear brakes done, backing plates + all interior parts painted, made up new transmission cooler lines, new radiator hoses, and new oil cooler hoses. Installed the front radiator support and put the AC condensing coil in. Painted up the radiator tanks and will get the radiator in tomorrow. Once all is together and all fluids filled I hope to get it up and running this weekend.
Got it fired up today. I've had the 91' motor for 4-5 years in the garage and today is the first time I've heard it run. It runs sweet. I lifted up the rear with my chain hoist and also put the tranny through it's gears. All worked great. This motor runs real quiet. Took a little to get all the air out but once it was out it fired right up. I hot wired the glow plugs, made a jumper to the IP, and wired a foot pedal to the wiring harness to activate the solenoid on the starter. Used a battery cutoff switch to power on the glow plugs and IP like an ignition switch. It ran real well considering I used the fuel that was in the tank which was in the tank when I bought the body over 5 years ago. I used a stock square filter assembly for now to get it started. You can see it temporarily mounted at the back of the air cleaner. I will post a lot of pictures of all the new stuff I've done.
Super nice Canadian made oil pan. Well worth the $100. Picture shows the numbers of the pan and the nice gasket set. Got a GM TV cable for the 700R. You must get the cable through GM to get the proper length cable unless you use an adjustable one.
Thanks. What's funny is when you look at it in a picture it looks like crap but in person it looks pretty darn good. Would look even better if I polished the trans and all that but I'm not that anal. Best thing is when under this thing not one piece of rust falls in your eye!
Spectra makes some good stuff for the money... that's who my dad goes through for gas tanks and some radiators.
I'm rather confused when it comes to aftermarket oil pans for the 6.2's...there seems to be only one number listed in the parts listings at various stores,and the Spectra GM40P is the one they list---supposedly fits all 6.2's???...(might need a new dipstick tube according to the info)--but when I asked a GM dealer,the parts counter guy claims he has two listings,one pan fits 82-86,that had a 2 peice rear main seal,the other fits 87-93 with the one peice rear main..................................................................................................I have a GM replacement pan off a 87 6.2 engine I got for parts,but I dont know what year the engine that was put in my truck is,it was a salvage yard replacement...dont even know where to look for codes to identify it,having fooled only with gas engines till I got that truck....I'd hate to get my old pan off,and find out the "new" one wont fit.....I supose I could take off the dust cover under the torque converter and look up and see if I can tell if it has a one peice rear main seal or not.............................................................................................................................................................................................................if it dont,I might as well forget fixing the engine,I dont have 100 bucks for another oil pan,and now that its fuel injector lines and oil cooler lines are ready to pop,which will cost another 200+ bucks,plus it ate a glow plug and now has valve train noises ,so it might be ready to blow any day-------------I'm about ready to either put a gas engine in it --it'd be cheaper,would start without hassle in cold weather,and gas is cheaper than diesel--or just part the thing out,and be done with it--the rest of the truck is getting too rusty to waste too much effort or money on it now...
Measure from the highest part of the pan over the rear main seal to the bottom of both of the pans. If it is the two piece seal the measurement will be longer than if it was a one piece seal. If both pans measure the same then it doesn't matter what year you have it will fit. The circle in the pan area over the rear seal is about 5/16th of an inch smaller I believe on the early year motors. I heard that it is the 82-84 motors not all the way up to 86. The Spectra pan I have fit perfect but I know my motor is a 91' so it definitely has the one piece seal.
Now that the chassis is done I've moved on to my new doors. I've purchased all new gasket rubber and window channels. Ordered new aluminum door panel inserts and new door handles. My neighbor is a professional metal polisher and he polished my stainless mirrors from the donor Blazer. They're shiny enough now to use the backside! LOL Bought all the new rubber products off Ebay from AM parts. Very high quality and fit perfect. Greased all the window sashes and channels. Tested the motors and 1 new door lock motor and the doors are done other than final assembly. Put dielectric grease on all connections. Disassembled all three of my tailgates to find none of them had good side channels in them. GM direct has OEM channels cheaper than you can buy them aftermarket. My buddy has a friend at a GM dealer getting them cheaper than direct. I have plenty of parts including a couple manual regulators for the tailgate. One is galvanized and virtually brand new. Like I stated before I will be offering all this M1009 parts after my build is done or at least when I get done with that part of the build. Worked on my seats today. I have two interiors and have decided to go with the gray one. Because this Blazer is a 84' it uses the older style "legs" for the front seats and the newer seat pedestals won't line up with the bolt holes in the floor. I disassembled the gray seats and put them on the older leg mounts. Went through all my wiring and already attached the plug for my new radio to all the speaker and power feeds. Looking over the harness I realized that the plug that goes to the transfer case appears to have been cut off where the wires go through the floor by the TC shifter. I have a couple of harnesses so I will just take the plug off another harness, solder and shrink tube the connections. Last thing done tonight was to work on the tail lights. Found the bulb housings were shot so used my military ones which were like new. I will solder on the "civilian" plugs on in place of the military ones. I have a new tailgate glass coming from the original owner of the donor 6.2 Blazer. He called me to tell me he found it in a box in his cellar. My tailgate will be virtually all new. Will post some pictures tomorrow.
Recent pictures.
Mirror holes drilled waiting for my nutserts to arrive. Door hinge end drilled out and the wire boots riveted in place. New window felts in place. All the rubber pieces fit perfect. Very nice quality. Did both doors complete minus the vent window rubber for $95. Pretty good price.
Mirror holes drilled waiting for my nutserts to arrive. Door hinge end drilled out and the wire boots riveted in place. New window felts in place. All the rubber pieces fit perfect. Very nice quality. Did both doors complete minus the vent window rubber for $95. Pretty good price.
Yes, in the picture it looks weird because of the flash but it is charcoal gray metallic. It is a GM color. I wanted to go the pearl white GM paints the Cadillac escalades with but too much money as it is a 3 step paint process because it is a pearl color.
DieselWarrior
1/2 ton status
I just caught this thread... I have '82 civilian K5 Blazer with 6.2, 700,208.
Stock axles were 3.08, tires.. 31's.
The setup SUCKED! If you went to 33 with 3.08, it would suck even worse. No power, no grunt with 31's, I could just imagine how gutless it would be with 33's!!
I just got my truck back this past Monday, the rear pinion bearings were toasted from the day I got it, and it finally chipped a few teeth from the ring gear...
$1,400 later I got it back re-geared to 4.11.
So, the current setup is 4.11 and 31's, with future plans of 33's.
I can say, 4.11 is a fantastic setup, with the 31's even... a LOT of grunt, and the 3-4-3 gear hunt is GONE, FINALLY! Now when it goes into overdrive, it STAYS in overdrive and its a pure joy to drive!
The "ideal" setup for the 6.2l diesel is NOT anywhere close to what a gasser would be setup for.
My highest suggestion is:
31" tire = 3.73
33" tire = 4.11
35" tire = 4.56
The reason being, as the tire size goes up, the gearing goes down, but the RPMs at the various stages of the transmission shift will be...
wait for it....
about the SAME as 31" and 3.73...
So, whats so special about 31" and 3.73?
Both were factory options. Therefore the above suggestions keep in trend with the RPMs that the TC and 700 are expecting for PROPER shifting AND good grunt, while maintaining decent economy.
Please bear in mind, the TC and 700 for a diesel and a gas are NOT the same... small differences, but not the same! The TC & trans for a diesel are setup specifically for the 6.2/6.5's power band.
If this is your first diesel, do yourself a favor and rely on those that currently have such a setup. TrustyK5 was a GREAT help to me throughout a lot of my work, you would do well to value his input also.
Any specific questions, shoot me a PM.
GL!
Andrew
Stock axles were 3.08, tires.. 31's.
The setup SUCKED! If you went to 33 with 3.08, it would suck even worse. No power, no grunt with 31's, I could just imagine how gutless it would be with 33's!!
I just got my truck back this past Monday, the rear pinion bearings were toasted from the day I got it, and it finally chipped a few teeth from the ring gear...
$1,400 later I got it back re-geared to 4.11.
So, the current setup is 4.11 and 31's, with future plans of 33's.
I can say, 4.11 is a fantastic setup, with the 31's even... a LOT of grunt, and the 3-4-3 gear hunt is GONE, FINALLY! Now when it goes into overdrive, it STAYS in overdrive and its a pure joy to drive!
The "ideal" setup for the 6.2l diesel is NOT anywhere close to what a gasser would be setup for.
My highest suggestion is:
31" tire = 3.73
33" tire = 4.11
35" tire = 4.56
The reason being, as the tire size goes up, the gearing goes down, but the RPMs at the various stages of the transmission shift will be...
wait for it....
about the SAME as 31" and 3.73...
So, whats so special about 31" and 3.73?
Both were factory options. Therefore the above suggestions keep in trend with the RPMs that the TC and 700 are expecting for PROPER shifting AND good grunt, while maintaining decent economy.
Please bear in mind, the TC and 700 for a diesel and a gas are NOT the same... small differences, but not the same! The TC & trans for a diesel are setup specifically for the 6.2/6.5's power band.
If this is your first diesel, do yourself a favor and rely on those that currently have such a setup. TrustyK5 was a GREAT help to me throughout a lot of my work, you would do well to value his input also.
Any specific questions, shoot me a PM.
GL!
Andrew
