I would remove the mechanical lift pump, put a block off plate on, sell the rod for $40 and install a 5-9psi electrical lift pump.
If that does not work, then I would get a new Injection pump.
CK5
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84 diesel crank no start.
- Thread starter k5blazerguy
- Start date
I would remove the mechanical lift pump, put a block off plate on, sell the rod for $40 and install a 5-9psi electrical lift pump.
If that does not work, then I would get a new Injection pump.
One more thing I do have a 4911 injection pump that I tested and is working well! I could sell it to you for $100 plus shipping. It would be an upgrade because it has bigger plungers. That is if the electronic lift pump does not solve your problem.
If he doesn't take it, I will.
I have an engine that donated it's IP to someone in need and now I am in need of that engine
By the way how did you test it?
On the engine or bench testing?
Installed an inline electric lift pump. Bled the filter. Steady stream. Only have like 3 injectors where I crack them, they get a little wet. No drip. Tried spraying WD 40 in the intake. Still nothing when tryin to start. Bought brand new batteries have fast crank. I may get that lift pump if it will work for me. It seems as though something is definitely up with the IP. I’ll PM you
Looks like he wants to buy it! I tested it on the last motor I built. Got video of it running smoke free with super fast throttle response.
10-4! Sending pm.
Did you get the IP I sent? Don’t forget to take out the glow plugs, disconnect the pink wire on Ip and prime the fuel system until fuel comes out of glow plug holes. When that happens, put glow plugs back in and connect the pink wire. After 8 seconds of glow time, it should fire right up.
Start with having the IP turned toward driver side so the timing is fully advanced. Once it starts, while running, slowly retard the injection pump timing until the motor starts to smoke and run rough. Then slowly advance it again to the position where it runs best and tighten all 3 15mm nuts.
Before putting on the injection pump lines. Use a shop vac and suck the tips of the injectors out to make sure they are clean.
You can re use your injection pump lines after you use brake cleaner to clean the ends of the lines, nuts and inside the lines. Then use compressed air to blow out the lines.
The injection pump I gave you has bigger plungers which obviously means more fuel and heat. I highly recommend a pyrometer gauge. Yes, even non turbo motors can exceed 1200 degrees egts.
Start with having the IP turned toward driver side so the timing is fully advanced. Once it starts, while running, slowly retard the injection pump timing until the motor starts to smoke and run rough. Then slowly advance it again to the position where it runs best and tighten all 3 15mm nuts.
Before putting on the injection pump lines. Use a shop vac and suck the tips of the injectors out to make sure they are clean.
You can re use your injection pump lines after you use brake cleaner to clean the ends of the lines, nuts and inside the lines. Then use compressed air to blow out the lines.
The injection pump I gave you has bigger plungers which obviously means more fuel and heat. I highly recommend a pyrometer gauge. Yes, even non turbo motors can exceed 1200 degrees egts.
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Yea I received it. I will keep you updated once I can get a day to install it. Hoping this weekend if I can get caught up on work. Thanks for the info!!!!
Thank you so much!!! Appreciate all your help today on the phone.
My son and I spent all day on this thing determined to drive her.
Swapped the IP and blew out the lines. Installed the non EGR intake and removed all the EGR crap. 2INSANE helped me troubleshoot it and went over how to bleed the system and She’s runnin!!! I’ll post some videos and pics. I gave this truck to my son to replace the one we were in the process of building. This truck is super special to us now and I know he will love this thing for a long time. He’s 15 and starting sophomore year. We both got to drive it today and found another issue with it, only gear Tcase has is 4lo. Even mashed into 2hi, still only 4lo and we had to hold it in gear so it wouldn’t pop out. I have another 208 from the drivetrain that was gonna go into his other truck. We may just swap it out.
Now onto changing all the oils and fluids and move onto making this thing the coolest rig in the high school parking lot. I may start a build on here for him. I appreciate everyone’s help I’ve learned a ton about the 6.2s after all this. Excited to bring my vision into this truck. Stay tuned. lol. Thanks again 2INSANE for everything…..
Very cool
You probably need to adjust the shifter rod to get hi in your tcase
That was the first thing I did and took the rod off to shift manually. I’ll shift into 2hi, I get 4lo. 4hi is neutral. And can shift into 4lo. But I have to hold the shifter because it will pop out as you push in the clutch to shift gears.
It’s clicking into each gear. Something probably worn out. Could be reason it was sitting for years. Then the IP could have failed from being dry all those years as well. The truck was pretty clean when I got it. But underneath is covered in mud. Someone had some fun on its last outing. Haha.
too bad you are far from me, I have a few np208 sitting in my shed
Update. Been running great last couple weeks. My son has been cruising it around the neighborhood to learn the manual transmission.
I’ve noticed over the last week or so it’s taking a few more GP start cycles before it starts. And today I couldn’t get it to start. Almost same issue as before. Have a clear line on the IP and it had maybe an inch long bubble at the top. Which has always been like that. While cranking bubble is gone. I’ve cycled the GPs at least 20 times today and had to connect the batteries to jumper cables. Cracked all of the injector lines and a few of them got wet. I can hear the IP click on and off when disconnecting the pink wire. Removed a few GPs and cranked no fuel spitting out. With the electric pump running I have a steady stream from the bleeder valve on the filter. At a loss what to try next. GPs are new. Getting power to all of them. I advanced the timing from one line width to almost two line widths advanced. I don’t see any fuel leaks anywhere. Was running great last time we drove it other than taking longer to start when cold. After it was warm she fired right up every time. I had to get back to work but I’m thinking I’ll remove all the GPs next and crank to see if fuel will spit out. Almost the same problem as before I changed the IP. Not sure what’s causing it.
I’ve noticed over the last week or so it’s taking a few more GP start cycles before it starts. And today I couldn’t get it to start. Almost same issue as before. Have a clear line on the IP and it had maybe an inch long bubble at the top. Which has always been like that. While cranking bubble is gone. I’ve cycled the GPs at least 20 times today and had to connect the batteries to jumper cables. Cracked all of the injector lines and a few of them got wet. I can hear the IP click on and off when disconnecting the pink wire. Removed a few GPs and cranked no fuel spitting out. With the electric pump running I have a steady stream from the bleeder valve on the filter. At a loss what to try next. GPs are new. Getting power to all of them. I advanced the timing from one line width to almost two line widths advanced. I don’t see any fuel leaks anywhere. Was running great last time we drove it other than taking longer to start when cold. After it was warm she fired right up every time. I had to get back to work but I’m thinking I’ll remove all the GPs next and crank to see if fuel will spit out. Almost the same problem as before I changed the IP. Not sure what’s causing it.
Next step is to pressurize fuel tanks and check for leaks. There should not be any air in the fuel return. Loss of prime sounds like. Installing an in line fuel pressure gauge would be useful for diagnostics (See pic)
Also a good idea to check the pop pressure of the injectors. If they are old and clogged, you would experience these same symptoms. Save yourself money and DIY.
Also a good idea to check the pop pressure of the injectors. If they are old and clogged, you would experience these same symptoms. Save yourself money and DIY.
Diesel Injector Nozzle Tester Pop Pressure Quality Dual Scale Gauge W/Filter | eBay
The fuel injection nozzle tester is made of selected high-quality materials to ensure a long-last use.It has a sturdy cast-iron body, stainless pressure gauge and a plastic transparent oil cup. It is suitable for all types of diesel injectors except (CRDI) common rail diesel injectors.
www.ebay.com
Another thing to consider as a useful tool to help with your loss of prime and more diagnosis is one of these fuel filter housings with primer.
Link to in line fitting:
Link to gauge:
3/8” Fuel Line Fuel Pressure Gauge Sensor T-Fitting Adapter Stainless Steel | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 3/8” Fuel Line Fuel Pressure Gauge Sensor T-Fitting Adapter Stainless Steel at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Link to gauge:
1.5" Dial Universal Fuel Pressure Gauge Liquid 0-15psi Pressure Gauge 1/8" NPT | eBay
Process connection : 1/8"NPT male center back. Dial size : 1-1/2". Dial plate : aluminum, with pointer stop. Oil Pressure Regulator. Fuel system. Fuel Tanks. Fuel Filters. Pointer : Aluminum, black, DIN style.
www.ebay.com
