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84 K10 "improved survivor"

JoeliusZ28

1/2 ton status
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Nov 7, 2016
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Location
Utica MI (Metro Detroit)
JoeliusZ28 submitted a new Build:

84 K10 "improved survivor"

Figured I would make a build thread for this even though its not much of a build from this site's standards. This is an all original truck that I have been trying to keep that way, but after 2 years of tinkering around with the engine I've decided to yank the Q-jet and all the emissions stuff and replace it with a Fitech EFI. Also installing a summit K1102 cam while im there to (hopefully) make the 305 less of a slug.

Read more about this build here...
 
I see a new mechanical fuel pump, are you going to run the Fuel Command Center?
 
That was actually an attempt to solve a problem I was having with random loss of fuel pressure prior to this whole project, but yes I am going to use the fuel command center. Thinking about mounting it where the battery is and relocating the battery to the passenger side so i don't have to run fuel lines across the engine bay. How did you set yours up?
 
I haven't had any direct experience with the fuel command center. It's been a painful subject for many users, I hope you have better luck. The systems I've done are either using inline pumps or preferably in tank pump setups.
 
Yeah, I've read about some of those issues too and I would also prefer the setups you mentioned from a technical standpoint but I'm trying to make this as "reversible" as possible. I took the original intake/carb off as a unit with all the lines labeled so it can go right back on if the next owner wants to do that. (I'd eventually like to trade up for a K20/K30).

From what I've read, most of the problems with the FCC are on higher power builds that drain the sump and cause it to lose prime, at least thats what I'm gambling on considering the screaming 200hp this thing will probably make. I did help my cousin do a fitech install on a 77 Dodge D200 and he used the command center without any problems, the truck ran fantastic. His kit came with the first version of the FCC but I've got the newer version with a black casing.
 
That makes sense and I'm glad to hear your cousin has had success with the command center. Some guys have claimed to have vapor lock issues, again but I haven't had any direct experience or the opportunity to troubleshoot so it's hard to say whats caused the problems. It's definitely the simplest approach and I'm interested to see how it goes for you.
 
I remember reading that too and I think thats a more common symptom in cramped engine bays where the FCC will be exposed to higher temps. Our trucks have some gigantic engine bays to breathe so maybe thats another factor in how my cousin is getting away with it. Also the reason i want to put it in a front-most corner of the engine bay.

Really hoping to get this done before the snow flies so I'll we'll see how it goes.

@Truckman4life thanks!
 
Yesterday I got the cam out and 13 of the 16 valve seals replaced. I'm going to have to fabricate a lower profile valve spring tool to get the last three seals. (brake booster is in the way). Thought I was going to have to cut the center bar of the core support to get the cam out but i managed to muscle it out of the way enough to spare it.

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Between a career change and another never-ending project I got wrapped up in, this regretfully got put on hold for about 8 months. But I'm working on it again with an ambitious goal of getting it running this weekend. The valve seals are all replaced and the new cam is in. The Fitech fuel command center turned out to be a bit of an unexpected debacle as the Fitech i installed on my cousins truck had a different FCC that did not require a return line. Mine does require a return line, and after doing a bunch of homework to try to determine how I could avoid that I ended up finding that the new one is that way for good reason... cooling the pump and preventing vapor lock. However, since I ordered this thing they are no longer selling the new revised version I have. So, fingers crossed that it works out. What I am going to do is route the return back to the filler neck vents at the rear of each gas tank. The only thing about this is it could cause some bizarre fuel transfer between the tanks, but aside from that it shouldn't give me any issue. Provided it all works out, I'll probably circle back and add a diverter valve later. Here's some current pics. The Fitech is just setting on the manifold right now, nothing is connected yet.

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So other than Friday night I worked the entire weekend on this project. Had help from my dad and a couple friends too. The entire thing with the exception of the distributor and valve covers is installed. Air conditioning will come later too. I got gunshy on starting the engine last night because I used the oil pump drill primer for a minute or two and wasn't seeing any oil through the pushrods. But I might need to give it more time with the drill and turn the crank slowly to make that happen. Hoping to start it tonight. Couple more pictures of the completed-ish install. My tentative road trip is Thursday so im crossing my fingers for a successful break in and a couple hundred drama free miles prior to then.

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A friend came over and helped me button it up tonight. We got all the lifters to prime in about 3 minutes with me running the drill and him turning the crank over.

After that we started it. Unfortunately it was not drama free but i dont think it was doom and gloom either. Cam seemed nice and quiet but something is WAY off with the tune. I can tell it has the potential to run way better than it ever did before. Had some surprising throttle response. I need to figure whats wrong with the tune/setup though. It takes a lot of throttle to get it to start and once it does start it struggles to get the rpms up or even stay alive. Once its above 2k it runs fairly well but then there is so much vacuum it practically locks the throttle blades in place and i was having a hard time gently throttling it without it suddenly snapping WOT and shooting fireballs. Timing was around 25 degrees at 2500 rpm. I’m thinking the base tune is pig rich.

Here’s a vid:
 
I'm thinking I may have the distributor installed wrong. I could not get the rotor to point at at cylinder 1 TDC like I wanted. Would either point to #3/#5 or closer to the water pump.
 
Based on conversations i had with people I was suspicious of the dist being 180 off. I pulled it back apart today and did a bunch more research to verify i was installing the distributor the correct way. This time, everything seemed to line up perfectly. It sputtered right away when i hit the key but wouldnt start. A couple times i got it to light and run 800 rpm, but couldnt get it to climb higher and it would die. Tried both extremes of timing and no noticeable difference. Need to get a buddy over and a timing light on it again but I just can't believe the fact that it doesn't even seem to be in range when everything lined up perfectly. I'm afraid I am going to wipe out the new cam from all the cranking and failed starts :(
 
I see I’m due for an update here. Sequentially what happened since my last post is this: my timing was the issue with initial startup. I was a tooth off on the distributor from where i thought i was so my method or aiming the distributor where it originally had been had me a good 20 degrees out on timing. Fixing that got it running. I still need to sort out my fuel return setup which i have another current thread about.

As for the fitech setup its been running reliably but not right. For the past year ive been chasing issues with throttle response. I made a number of changes to improve/fix the issue including a lot of experimentation with throttle linkage, accel pump settings, and lowering my fuel pressure which collectively made a HUGE difference. But, despite all that any quick changes in throttle under load would still make the truck hesitate and buck like it was getting some kind of delayed signal. Over the weekend i finally found the real source of the problem. My map sensor grommet was twisted up when the unit was manufactured, and an air leak there would explain a LOT. Unfortunately in getting to this i now also messed up some wiring for the handheld... heh. I emailed tech support so hopefully they send me a replacement.

Over this weekend I also fixed a couple interior electrical issues (some lights in the gauge cluster not working, and the OEM radio was cutting out). Also got her some new shoes, 32x11.5” BFGs. The 31s it had on it always kinda bugged me as looking just a touch too small. I’m still trying to diagnose and fix a couple more electrical issues while i have the dash apart. 1) my parking brake light doesnt work. I am going to try replacing the sensor. 2) my dome/convenience lights aren’t working. I checked the physical condition of everything yesterday and couldn’t find anything so next step is testing for voltage. All of these electrical issues popped up in the last year or so, when i bought the truck everything had been working.

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