I’ll also mention I still have that full floating rear axle. I think the wise thing is to regear down to something like 4.56 or 4.88 so the gear gaps are smaller and I can pull grades easier at less than 70 in OD
CK5
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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup.
5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
I’m surprised the 5.3 doesn’t want to pull grades that well, sounds about like my 350. Stock TBI 350, NV4500, and 3.73’s. It’s basically a 4 speed with overdrive you can use on flat ground 
It does but the rpm is 1900 below 70 mph so I have to be going faster than that to pull it. But once I’m at 80 it stays up there no prob.I’m surprised the 5.3 doesn’t want to pull grades that well, sounds about like my 350. Stock TBI 350, NV4500, and 3.73’s. It’s basically a 4 speed with overdrive you can use on flat ground
If I could raise that rpm so the truck was spinning 2200-2300 at 70 and close to 2500 at 80 it would pull better.
Those are all plausible reasons for sure. I think I'm still going to try it that way, hopefully it won't be a mistake.
Digging your truck. I'm also glad to see it stay a manual transmission.
As soon as you regear to fix that you'll loose that killer mpg you are currently enjoying. The burnouts will be better however.
I've been wheeling my advance bell for several year now. I'd did test fit my clutch assembly and I had to clearance it inside the bell. It is the biggest luk brand I could fit in there.
I think you should take the nickname squirrel...
But really you should just make it fast and simple then make down time when it's not in season.
But really you should just make it fast and simple then make down time when it's not in season.
I usually think before I act, but the stuff didn’t line up like it should have to make this happen, I had serious obstacles in my way so the path of least resistance is what I choose if those things are insurmountable at the time.
@LNielson i would suggest a mag drill and drill it beyond 1/2 inch into the case and maybe past the case wall into the wet side. I would use a helicoil as well to double up on thread strength. And possibly use a fine thread bolt and lastly make sure the bolt has a flat surface to seat on.
@LNielson i would suggest a mag drill and drill it beyond 1/2 inch into the case and maybe past the case wall into the wet side. I would use a helicoil as well to double up on thread strength. And possibly use a fine thread bolt and lastly make sure the bolt has a flat surface to seat on.
Thanks for the share. I had contemplated trying to do this at home, but after seeing this cautionary tale, I will probably throw the case up on the mill at work to punch those holes. I'm going to have a local trans shop pull mine apart and inspect the internals before I put it in. It will be a good time to drill/tap the holes with the case stripped bare.
Studs might be wiser now that I think of it.
I only did it for you
And I have to put the clutch and 3rd pedal back in.. for the 4th time now.. yay
Glad this truck is going to stay normal.
Ethel is back and running, not without the typical Bs and another 2am thrash.. fml
The new bellhousing hits the clutch fork if you use a factory fork. I had to clearance the back side of the clutch fork window. But it works..
The new bellhousing hits the clutch fork if you use a factory fork. I had to clearance the back side of the clutch fork window. But it works..
Standard goat screw for conversions
To add to that it didn’t get much quieter either even with all the new input bearings.. whaaatteever
You don't make it easy to not go hooning....
Not my fault Ethel pissed me off. Tires are prob not going to last long. Might as well go to 35 or 37s when these wear out..
