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84 Optimized M1009

Highly modified CUCV
Got the new soft topper on today. Wonder how many years this one will last…

If anyone wants my old one, the windows could be fixed with vinyl sheet and some sewing. Comes with new hardware. Let me know. Free just pay shipping.

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For my reference, Mr Speedo says I’m going 5mph faster then I actually am. Currently with a 44 tooth speedo gear. Just ordered a 35 tooth.
 
At least the underside will never rust from all that oil.

At least the back 1/2 of it lol!

Today I got my toenail removed. The Dr said take it easy for a week. First thing I did when I got home was remove the downpipe and replace the bad cold advance switch.

Then removed the Dinosaur GM1 turbo and started the HX35W swap. Almost done. Just gotta redue a couple of the glow plug wires to get them further away from the heat, cut the turbo housing and hook up the intake. Got dark so I’ll finish it tomorrow.

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The correct oil feed adapter size for the
HX35W is:

M12x1.5 Metric Male x 1/4" NPTF Female


This one I ordered has a metal compression washer instead of a rubber O-Ring to help seal.

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Well, the Hx35w is in! A tad bit lower EGTs. It holds it boost longer. The turbo sound is a tad louder.

The negative is that it does not spool as fast at lower rpm’s and does not make that cool pressure release sound.

I ordered a 90 degree 4” silicone elbow and will hook up the Oem CDR plumbing when it arrives.

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I did some experimenting today after work. I wanted to see if I could get faster turbo spools at lower RPM’s by changing the made in China Hx35w compressor wheel and housing with the made in USA compressor wheel and housing.

Measuring the compressor wheels…

Made in USA
Inducer=53.05mm
Exducer=76.47mm
7 Blade

Made in China
Inducer=52.03mm
Exducer=82.49mm
8 Blade

The made in USA wheel and housing swapped right in with a perfect fit!

WOW! What a huge huge difference! It spools much faster, especially at lower rpm’s, the jet engine noise is about twice as loud and egts are about 75 degrees lower making it 175 degrees lower in total compared to the old GM1.

The USA wheel does have a small nick in it. I will replace it with a new one that has the same specs to keep the balance correct. I also plan on turning up the fuel 1/8th of a turn now that the egts are lower.

I think the elevation I am at plays a big roll in the size of compressor wheel.

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The intake elbow arrived. I got her installed tonight! Looks good! I plan on modifying the intake filter cover here soon to help keep the motor bay heat out of the intake. Also want to get a bigger air filter down the road.

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Spring is kinda here in Montana! I pulled the Blazer out of Storage and am driving it daily again! It always feels great to jump in the saddle after a long winter!

I am planning on doing a run to the Moab area this May 21st-28th!
 
I really really liked the Polyurethane Transmission Mount Bushings that I recently put on a customers ride! I had to get some too! My old ones were pretty worn out. I also put on the stock skid plate since I somehow forgot about it during the 700r4 swap.

For some reason my weakest link is the front driveshaft. I took the old one in to get refurbished and had a spare made just in case. Now, where should I store it in the Blazer? I was thinking about some wheel well toolboxes but man those are sooo darn expensive!

At the local pawn shop I found a nice set of 12” JL Audio Subwoofers with the box. They worked out a deal for only $250! I went home and brushed off a 1000 watt new Kenwood amp that I bought over 10 years ago and never installed. I think it was $275 new back in the day… My current deck is nice and works well but I want to modernize it with this beautiful Alpine ILX-F511 Halo floating display deck. There goes another $1,400… I pray when it gets stolen, the thief does not mess up the Aluminum dash lol!

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I just finished up installing the Alpine Stereo. There is a ton of wiring that seemed at first intimidating. One wire at a time I guess lol! It is very sweet! Has a lot of functions and looks great with the DIY4X Dash! I put the remote on the center console so I have access when the seatbelt is on.

Amp, subwoofer and cameras will be next after I fix a leaking valve cover gasket…‍

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Driver side valve cover was leaking pretty good! I thought it was the oil cooler lines at first and then I followed the oil trail…

So today I kicked myself in the butt with the spurs and got her all fixed! It took me about 4 hours to do it myself, not including a few little old man breaks. So at $170hr, I saved myself at least $680!

I used a cork gasket and The Right Stuff to seal it since the valve cover was somewhat bent. I bent it back as best as I could and hope she seals for a long time!

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Gear… What to bring and what not to bring… It seems like no matter how much you bring, there is always something that is forgotten…

Well, A good friend of mine once asked why I take soooo much stuff. So I took his advice one trip and we went wheeling in Moab and someone with us broke down and came straight to me and asked if I brought stuff to help that someone. I reminded him that he told me not to take sooo much, so that someone was kinda screwed until someone else came down the trail with what he needed. In a nutshell, you can never take too much… Sometimes it is something simple like a hose clamp, wire or a special bolt that will get you or someone else back in service.

Over the years I have noticed how important weight distribution is, having a heavy diesel motor in the front and not much in the back makes my distribution off. All this gear balances the weight distribution out and it performs much much better because of it.

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A few years ago some cracks in the floor developed where the passenger seat bolts to. I don’t want the wife’s butt falling out of the Blazer floor, as hilarious as it would be, still would not be good. I asked our shop welder if he wanted to make some extra side cash and he was more than willing to fix it.

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