socal chevy
1/2 ton status
ill live in socal so junkyards are slim around here... where do I look for a 3/4 axle?
CK5
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84 Scottsdale (silverado) Lift ??
- Thread starter socal chevy
- Start date
84_Chevy_K10
Banned
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ill live in socal so junkyards are slim around here... where do I look for a 3/4 axle?
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Look for old raggedy K20s. Buy it, steal the axles, and junk it.
ill live in socal so junkyards are slim around here... where do I look for a 3/4 axle?
[/ QUOTE ]
Look for old raggedy K20s. Buy it, steal the axles, and junk it.
[ QUOTE ]
ill live in socal so junkyards are slim around here... where do I look for a 3/4 axle?
[/ QUOTE ] Look in your local newspaper or find a junkyard someplace. Remember that you want a 3/4 pair. Not just the rear.
ill live in socal so junkyards are slim around here... where do I look for a 3/4 axle?
[/ QUOTE ] Look in your local newspaper or find a junkyard someplace. Remember that you want a 3/4 pair. Not just the rear.
socal chevy
1/2 ton status
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
ill live in socal so junkyards are slim around here... where do I look for a 3/4 axle?
[/ QUOTE ] Look in your local newspaper or find a junkyard someplace. Remember that you want a 3/4 pair. Not just the rear.
[/ QUOTE ]
What years will work with my 84?... Any particular things I should look for when I get one?... Are there different axle widths to correct the rear wheels sticking in the wheel-wells?.... Are there different lug patterns?
[ QUOTE ]
ill live in socal so junkyards are slim around here... where do I look for a 3/4 axle?
[/ QUOTE ] Look in your local newspaper or find a junkyard someplace. Remember that you want a 3/4 pair. Not just the rear.
[/ QUOTE ]
What years will work with my 84?... Any particular things I should look for when I get one?... Are there different axle widths to correct the rear wheels sticking in the wheel-wells?.... Are there different lug patterns?
Basically any 3/4 ton 4x4 will work from 1973 to 1987. I assume you are aware that all 3/4tons come equipped with 8 lug hubs on pre '88 trucks and they are all 8 on 6.5" spacing. That is still the standard spacing on all 8 lug chevies,, dodges, and non superduty HD fords.
As far as which year to look for.....basically the later the better because the axles will be newer and a better chance at having lower mileage. 80's will be your best bet because then your E-brake will bolt right up. I sourced my 14BFF out of a '77 3/4 ton 2wd and my 3/4 ton 8 lug 10B came out of a '79 3/4 burb. Everything bolted up like it belonged there besides the 70's style e-brake.
The 14BFF should be the same width as your 10B rear so that won't change. A van 14B is 4" wider and a popular swap but it is much more complicated swap due to the spring perches and shock mounts being in the wrong spot. If you need this truck daily I would just find a standard 3/4 14BFF and swap it in an hour if you're good at turning wrenches.
As far as which year to look for.....basically the later the better because the axles will be newer and a better chance at having lower mileage. 80's will be your best bet because then your E-brake will bolt right up. I sourced my 14BFF out of a '77 3/4 ton 2wd and my 3/4 ton 8 lug 10B came out of a '79 3/4 burb. Everything bolted up like it belonged there besides the 70's style e-brake.
The 14BFF should be the same width as your 10B rear so that won't change. A van 14B is 4" wider and a popular swap but it is much more complicated swap due to the spring perches and shock mounts being in the wrong spot. If you need this truck daily I would just find a standard 3/4 14BFF and swap it in an hour if you're good at turning wrenches.
socal chevy
1/2 ton status
A few Questions.
1)14bff?..what does the "bff" stand for? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
2)You can use a 2wd axle in front and in the rear on my truck? /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
3)You said you are using a "3/4 ton 8 lug 10B" I thought 10 b were a no no????? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Thanks for the help man! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
1)14bff?..what does the "bff" stand for? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
2)You can use a 2wd axle in front and in the rear on my truck? /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
3)You said you are using a "3/4 ton 8 lug 10B" I thought 10 b were a no no????? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Thanks for the help man! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
bff = Bolt Full Floater
2wd axle = rear only (and you will want to change shock mounts)
10b in front is pretty standard, options are to upgrade to a Dana 60 (probably about $1500 - 2000 by the time you're done) or beef the 10b and go "easy" on it and expect to break it from time to time
2wd axle = rear only (and you will want to change shock mounts)
10b in front is pretty standard, options are to upgrade to a Dana 60 (probably about $1500 - 2000 by the time you're done) or beef the 10b and go "easy" on it and expect to break it from time to time
socal chevy
1/2 ton status
So I can keep my 10 bolt front? That doesnt make sense /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
yeah you can
its something like the rear axle takes a lot more force while offroading, so it is a lot easier to break them in the rear
the front.... well it really depends on what you want to do
high hp or torque = D60, FF rear
rocks = D60, FF rear
moderate offroading = beefed 10b (probably 8 lug), and FF rear
"light" trail riding = see how the 10bolts do... be prepared to fix them
street use = 10b will be ok with tires 33" or smaller
those are "general" opinions... everyone will have their own opinions on those subjects
its something like the rear axle takes a lot more force while offroading, so it is a lot easier to break them in the rear
the front.... well it really depends on what you want to do
high hp or torque = D60, FF rear
rocks = D60, FF rear
moderate offroading = beefed 10b (probably 8 lug), and FF rear
"light" trail riding = see how the 10bolts do... be prepared to fix them
street use = 10b will be ok with tires 33" or smaller
those are "general" opinions... everyone will have their own opinions on those subjects
[ QUOTE ]
A few Questions.
1)14bff?..what does the "bff" stand for? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
2)You can use a 2wd axle in front and in the rear on my truck? /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
3)You said you are using a "3/4 ton 8 lug 10B" I thought 10 b were a no no????? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
4)So I can keep my 10 bolt front? That doesnt make sense
Thanks for the help man! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
1) 14 bolt full floating axle. Make sure you ask for a full floater at the yard otherwise they could show you the "other" 14BSF which is a semi floating rear end like your current 10B and is much weaker than the full floating version.
2) There is no axle under a LD (light duty)2wd pickup. 2wds use an A-arm suspension and coils like a car. I should have made that clearer, I pulled my rear 14BFF out of a 1977 2wd 3/4 ton pickup, just the rear axle and nothing else. The only difference between a 2wd and 4wd 14BFF is that the shock mounts are slightly longer on the 2wd and since I had shims my shock wouldn't quite bolt up to one mount. I cut it off and rewelded it 1" forward. It would have been slightly easier to just use a 4wd 14BFF.
3) Run a 10B front or D44 as a second choice. I will bet you will NEVER break it from fourwheeling with a stock engine and rather "mild" 35" tires. I have a completely stock 3/4 ton 10B under my K5 and I have a fairly torquey built 406SBC and probably the meanest 35" tire on the market, a 35x16 bogger. I have floored it plenty of times pulling on objects while planted on asphalt smoking the tires and have never broken a thing up front. Plenty of mud and climbing too....not one problem.
Now, there is a difference between the 10B under your pickup and one that is found under a 3/4ton.
a) The housings are exactly the same
b) the differentials are identical besides the fact that your 10B has a 3.73 ring and pinion to where a 3/4 ton 10B will probably have a 4.10 ring and pinion.
c) The hubs are different. Your 10B has a 6 lug hub, a 3/4 10B has an 8 lug hub with a slightly larger rotor. That equals to you needing 8 lug rims and having slightly better braking.
d) Your calipers are interchangeable with a 3/4 model, spring perches, shock mounts......all the same.
4) Yes, I have a 3/4 ton 10bolt that comes factory with the larger 8 lug hubs and factory 4.10's. A 10bolt front is fine (refer to my comments above) and it's the rear ones that fail mostly. The rear sees the most abuse and is why a 14BFF is such a popular swap. I am not going to get into a D60 because it is definantly not neccessary, costs too much, and I don't want to get you confused on what you need.
Just go to a junk yard and ask them for a 4wd 14BFF and the matching front 3/4 ton 8 lug 10B. Make sure they both have identical gear ratios and you want nothing higher than 4.10's. 4.56's would be great if you can find a pair of axles from the same truck with them but 4.10's is much more common.
Basically...
A) Get rid of both your front and rear 10bolts. They are basically of no use.
B) Get a 14bolt full floating axle out of a 73-87 3/4 ton 4wd pickup.
C) Get a completely seperate 10bolt front for your pickup that is from hopefully the same truck as where the rear axle came from, that will ensure they are compatable.
D) Just remember, full floating rear, 8 lug front 10B, matching gear ratios, 4.10's or prferably 4.56, 73-87 years.
Like always....hit that quote button if you have any more ques. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
A few Questions.
1)14bff?..what does the "bff" stand for? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
2)You can use a 2wd axle in front and in the rear on my truck? /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
3)You said you are using a "3/4 ton 8 lug 10B" I thought 10 b were a no no????? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
4)So I can keep my 10 bolt front? That doesnt make sense
Thanks for the help man! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
1) 14 bolt full floating axle. Make sure you ask for a full floater at the yard otherwise they could show you the "other" 14BSF which is a semi floating rear end like your current 10B and is much weaker than the full floating version.
2) There is no axle under a LD (light duty)2wd pickup. 2wds use an A-arm suspension and coils like a car. I should have made that clearer, I pulled my rear 14BFF out of a 1977 2wd 3/4 ton pickup, just the rear axle and nothing else. The only difference between a 2wd and 4wd 14BFF is that the shock mounts are slightly longer on the 2wd and since I had shims my shock wouldn't quite bolt up to one mount. I cut it off and rewelded it 1" forward. It would have been slightly easier to just use a 4wd 14BFF.
3) Run a 10B front or D44 as a second choice. I will bet you will NEVER break it from fourwheeling with a stock engine and rather "mild" 35" tires. I have a completely stock 3/4 ton 10B under my K5 and I have a fairly torquey built 406SBC and probably the meanest 35" tire on the market, a 35x16 bogger. I have floored it plenty of times pulling on objects while planted on asphalt smoking the tires and have never broken a thing up front. Plenty of mud and climbing too....not one problem.
Now, there is a difference between the 10B under your pickup and one that is found under a 3/4ton.
a) The housings are exactly the same
b) the differentials are identical besides the fact that your 10B has a 3.73 ring and pinion to where a 3/4 ton 10B will probably have a 4.10 ring and pinion.
c) The hubs are different. Your 10B has a 6 lug hub, a 3/4 10B has an 8 lug hub with a slightly larger rotor. That equals to you needing 8 lug rims and having slightly better braking.
d) Your calipers are interchangeable with a 3/4 model, spring perches, shock mounts......all the same.
4) Yes, I have a 3/4 ton 10bolt that comes factory with the larger 8 lug hubs and factory 4.10's. A 10bolt front is fine (refer to my comments above) and it's the rear ones that fail mostly. The rear sees the most abuse and is why a 14BFF is such a popular swap. I am not going to get into a D60 because it is definantly not neccessary, costs too much, and I don't want to get you confused on what you need.
Just go to a junk yard and ask them for a 4wd 14BFF and the matching front 3/4 ton 8 lug 10B. Make sure they both have identical gear ratios and you want nothing higher than 4.10's. 4.56's would be great if you can find a pair of axles from the same truck with them but 4.10's is much more common.
Basically...
A) Get rid of both your front and rear 10bolts. They are basically of no use.
B) Get a 14bolt full floating axle out of a 73-87 3/4 ton 4wd pickup.
C) Get a completely seperate 10bolt front for your pickup that is from hopefully the same truck as where the rear axle came from, that will ensure they are compatable.
D) Just remember, full floating rear, 8 lug front 10B, matching gear ratios, 4.10's or prferably 4.56, 73-87 years.
Like always....hit that quote button if you have any more ques. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
