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85 GMC Jimmy Sierra Classic - several questions

jawjadawg

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Merry Christmas, everyone.
This vehicle appears to have original suspension. I have owned it since 2011/12. I rarely drive it but recently almost lost a wheel due to loose lug nuts. Like within inches of coming off. The lugs were torn up from rim wobble and the lug holes on the rim were wallowed out so I had to use my spare. Replaced all of the lugs and nuts and couldn’t understand how the lugs were loose on both sides of the front. Since then the vehicle has sat for the better part of 6 months and was only driven once during that time, prior to today. I took her out this afternoon for a car bath and drove about 5 miles, and then stopped to fill up near the house. After fueling, when I turned to the left, the drivers side front wheel came completely off. I dropped down to the rotor. Thank goodness I was only travelling 5mph when this happened. (The road I was on is terribleso I didn’t feel much unusual, although I did hear something pop once as I turned in to the Quiktrip.) I could not feel any wobble when driving.

So I got to thinking that it was super odd for my lugs to get loose TWICE, and the the 2nd time was after literally less than 20 miles and the wheel came completely off. Has someone loosened my lugs, or are my suspension components so shot that my wheels are wobbling and pushing the lug nuts off?

I stole three lugs from the other three wheels and wobbled back home the last mile at about 10 mph. Now it is sitting in my driveway and wondering what I should replace before I safely put her back on the road. The bearings and hubs were fine when I went through this exercise the last time. Fine, as in still looked darn near new from when I replaced them 6 or 7 years ago.

A glance at my shocks this afternoon told me those bushings are toast, as are most of the others you can see from the front bumper vantage point.

What can I do in my driveway with jack stands and good sockets, wrenches, torque wrench, and a compressor?

Control arms, ball joints, etc. Someone give me a list of what I should be looking to replace? (Is that a reasonable request or too open ended?) It is funny this happened today, as I was just on Rockauto looking at control arms and sway bar bushings at around 5am this morning.
 
The rims are the factory 15’s
Kumho Mohave AT 10.5 R15 109
They were on the truck when I bought it @10 years ago. Another item to add to my list. I don’t think I’ve ever owned a set of tires for 10 years
 
Which factory wheels? It could have 15"x6", 15"x7", or 15"x8". Are they aluminum or steel?

Martin
 
This is not odd in my experience. Anytime I rotate or replace tires, I keep a torque wrench handy and torque all the time. It will take many times if retorquing to stop the creeping. I torque to 100 ft-lb. We bought this truck new in ‘78. It’s always done it.
 
Here’s a couple of observations. If there is so much vibration that correctly torqued lug nuts are backing off you would feel it like crazy. However lug nuts that are under torqued can and will back off. There is a chain reaction that once a couple loosen up the resulting wobble will work the rest of them loose.

So before you go bananas on chucking a bunch of parts at it you need to fix the shredded lugs and the wobbled out wheels. Then you can drive and evaluate the condition of the rest of the front end.

Ideally while you go through the process to replace the studs you’ll have a perfect opportunity to inspect the front end. Ball joints, drag link and tie rod ends. Wheel bearings too.

none of us can tell you what to get without you first inspecting the parts to see if they are loose or not.
 
The threads on the studs or the grooves on the nuts might be destroyed. You can torque them as hard as you like, but if the threads are destroyed it will jump a thread and back off.

Especially if they wobbled loosed a few times.

I'd replace the studs all around and get the proper nuts. Inspect the wheels and make sure the holes aren't wallowed.
 
I found play between the rotor and hub when I removed everything. When this happened before, I only replaced the lugs in the old rotor. I now remember struggling with the new lugs to seat them 100% and figured the impact wrench would snug them up. I guess I was wrong. That was probably enough to cause a problem. I’ll go with a new assembled rotor and hub this time.

My tie rods are completely shot. I can flex those with my hands. Maybe that was enough to cause the lugs to come loose the first time?

Now I need to decide if I want to buy a pair of oem rally rims to match my other three, or replace the entire setup.
 
There should absolutely be no play between the hub and rotor. The studs hold them together nice and tight.
 
I found play between the rotor and hub when I removed everything. When this happened before, I only replaced the lugs in the old rotor. I now remember struggling with the new lugs to seat them 100% and figured the impact wrench would snug them up. I guess I was wrong. That was probably enough to cause a problem. I’ll go with a new assembled rotor and hub this time.

My tie rods are completely shot. I can flex those with my hands. Maybe that was enough to cause the lugs to come loose the first time?

Now I need to decide if I want to buy a pair of oem rally rims to match my other three, or replace the entire setup.
You need to torque the wheel lug nuts. An impact wrench won't give the same results without risking going past the proper torque. And then you will have to check them intermittently afterwards.

What direction are you getting flex from the tie rods? Twisting? Or is there play in the direction of their travel?

You should be able to find a good used wheel or two. I have sold them before, but I only have 15"x7" right now. Someone probably has some 8" wide wheels.
 
Best bet for OEM rally wheels is ebay. I bought a whole extra set for $400 w/ free shipping. Less work on your end. They're getting harder to find. Just check every week.

More work, but You can also check junkyards. Any k10 truck, blazer or suburban will have them.

Easy to sandblast and repaint

 
Where are you located? I have given away probably five sets of rally wheels.

Martin
 
You need to torque the wheel lug nuts. An impact wrench won't give the same results without risking going past the proper torque. And then you will have to check them intermittently afterwards.

What direction are you getting flex from the tie rods? Twisting? Or is there play in the direction of their travel?

You should be able to find a good used wheel or two. I have sold them before, but I only have 15"x7" right now. Someone probably has some 8" wide wheels.
What I’m saying on the lugs is that I couldn’t get them to sit all the way down against the back of the rotor when I tried replacing them the first time this happened. They were close but not all the way. I just figured I would be able to pull them the rest of the way by screwing down the nut. That apparently didn’t work. I don’t know what else would have allowed this to happen. I’m really just guessing but the hub was not flush to the rotor when I pulled the tire, of course the rotor also crashed to the ground with the weight of the vehicle when the tire came off so there’s that. I figure a new rotor with lugs and hub will remove that as an issue this time. Maybe the rotor was damaged when I replaced the lugs, which allowed for some wobble. Just guessing.

I can twist the tie rod toward either the front or back. Moves pretty easily.

6872xtc - thank you for that link. Unfortunately, I have the 10 rectangle pattern. Those are 16 rectangles. I just found one on eBay that was a new listing for $135 shipped. I jumped on it. Now I need a 2nd for a spare.
 

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