You mean studs not lugs. The lugs are the nuts that hold the wheel on.
CK5
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85 GMC Jimmy Sierra Classic - several questions
- Thread starter jawjadawg
- Start date
I assume Georgia. I drive by Atalanta Nebraska pretty regularly.
Martin
Martin
Twisting the tie rod is not a sign that it's worn out.
Have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth with the engine off while you look at every joint. If there is play in a tie rid or drag link end, this will show it. There should be no wiggle in the joints while doing this.
Make sure that the ignition switch is not in the lock position so that the steering wheel will move.
A complete new hub and rotor assembly will still need you to torque the lug nuts on.
Have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth with the engine off while you look at every joint. If there is play in a tie rid or drag link end, this will show it. There should be no wiggle in the joints while doing this.
Make sure that the ignition switch is not in the lock position so that the steering wheel will move.
A complete new hub and rotor assembly will still need you to torque the lug nuts on.
Press lug studs in or smack them from the back to seat.
7/16" studs are past their maximum torque rating at something like 75ft-lbs, I'd be willing to bet it takes a lot more than that to pull them flush.
Press the studs in or use a big hammer and a brass punch or drift. You will hear a distinct ring when the stud is seated all the way.
Good info on torque rating, although arent the lugs supposed to to be tightened to like 88lbs? . I’m not sure why I couldn’t get the studs to seat. We were whacking the heck out of them.
What is weird is now the rotor is pretty fubar. The studs wallowed out the holes. I just tapped them with a hammer and they fell out. The holes are so big now that they won’t even stick.
Id have to look. I can't recall what GM spec'd them at. I do recall when I did see it, it was very near the maximum for that fastener size
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The nuts are the nuts.
The studs are called lug studs. The nuts are called lug nuts.
Sorry to get off in the weeds on technical terms. FWIW I've always called them wheel studs.
But what's important here is getting your truck fixed for safeties sake. Having a wheel fall off is one of my worst nightmares.
If the studs come out with a tap of a hammer, then you get to replace your rotor hub assemblies. Raybestos is 140 each on Rock Auto and looks like the studs are already installed. If they aren't, then you just have to keep hitting it until it seats. It's either that or a press. It helps to have someone looking at the studs as you are hitting them in otherwise you start asking yourself if the stud is moving or not.
I don’t know if I’m doing this right for this website or not. Here’s a video of the steering wheel being turned from underneath. Lots of noise. What can you tell me from the video, assuming you are able to review it.?
Everything seems tight from what I can see, however it's difficult to tell. I usually check with both tires on, and on the ground. So with less pressure on everything like you have it, take your time checking each joint for play.
There have been some threads about upgrading the front studs to 1/2" or 14mm or something, but I can't remember if the knurl area gets enlarged or not. If your rotors are otherwise good, they might be candidates for this. I don't know how big you can go with the rally wheels.
Last I checked dorman had stopped making the 1/2" studs that were essentially the same design as the stock 7/16" for the front. Drilling was required.
Plenty of 1/2" studs out there, no others I ever found to have the knurl in the same spot however. My limited experience with the 14mm was that the lug nuts were too big for the wheels and pinched the metal, instead of seating in the taper.
