What was your fix? I just did a switch to ground with a wire coming from my harness for my VSS.What are you going to do for the speed sensor when it's in 4 low?
What was your fix? I just did a switch to ground with a wire coming from my harness for my VSS.What are you going to do for the speed sensor when it's in 4 low?
Somethings not right. I don't remember the size but D60 spindle bolts are much bigger than 10 bolt. They are also fine thread.Military Tech Manuals also show the 65 lb ft spec for both the 10 bolt and the D60.
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There has to be an output speed sensor for the input to compare to for shift tables. So as a clarification your tcm is going to care about output speed but no it does not have to be behind the transfer case.
It is a very common practice with both 4l60e and 80e transmissions to run them as a simulated 2wd by adding the output speed sensor before the t case somewhere.
4l80es get the benefit of having the factory 2wd case location. However, you have to have the 2wd reluctor wheel installed. 60es I have seen it put into the t case adapter because I believe the factory location is on the tail housing.
I am not well versed in the 6l80/90s so hopefully someone else chimes in. Your plan to have the computer run the tranny and your gauges pull speed from t case output shaft is actually the same way I am currently setting mine up.
My 4l80e was built with the 2wd reluctor wheel and after adding the speed sensor my terminator plugs in there. My current speedometer reading was taken off the 241c but since I added the magnum/205 I had ORD machine the housing to get a correct speed regardless of low range.
I have not personally had mine running/driving yet but yes from my understanding the transmission doesn't really care.Thanks for this info. Obviously there's no guarantee a 6L80 would behave the same way, but I assume your 4L80 shifts normally when the transfer case is in low range, despite the transmission not "knowing" it?
I have read that there are separate shift tables, but I don't have my head wrapped around that stuff much yet. I have also read some people say it shifts poorly (shifts at way too high rpm, etc) when it's in low but the TCM doesn't "know", and some people say it's a non issue.
For my Holley I put it in the adapter between the trans and tcase.What was your fix? I just did a switch to ground with a wire coming from my harness for my VSS.
Ah, I'm not that cool. I need to pull my 4l80 someday and put a tone ring.For my Holley I put it in the adapter between the trans and tcase.
it wasn’t cheap but I needed it to shift out of 1st in low range.Ah, I'm not that cool. I need to pull my 4l80 someday and put a tone ring.
This is a fact of life. If you're ever getting way more done than expected, it's later in the day/week/month/year than you thought it was.As is tradition, I didn't make quite as much progress as I hoped
I could be wrong but looking at the shape of that plate, it should be slid closer to the axle tube, the curve matches the C on the end.Spent all day today welding the link brackets to the axle housing. Went ahead and fully welded them because there's really only 1 way they can go, but everything from here forward will only be tacked until I know it's all where I want it at the very end. I also welded the other axle tube, which I don't think I really need to do (especially for my use case) but it seemed like a "why not" type thing while I'm doing all the other stuff.
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I did have a fitment issue with the driver side link bracket. 90% of it fit perfectly, except for one of the plates that makes up the bracket. The plate seemingly is supposed to be attached to the axle tube (parallel with it) but it had a quarter inch gap or so. The bracket pretty much "keys" onto the axle with semi circle cut outs and has to match angle with the passenger side bracket, so there really was no way to get it to sit on there better.
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After quadruple checking the angles and measuring where the links bolt into in the bracket (distance to the axle tube), and confirming things match between driver and passenger side, I decided to go ahead and weld everything I could, and make filler pieces for the areas that didn't fit well so I could weld those too. This unfortunately added a lot of time, but it's done.
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I did call ORD right when they opened, and they took a message for a technician to call me back later, but unfortunately I didn't hear back until close to the end of the day (not blaming them, I am sure they are very busy) and they requested pictures, which I sent. Given that the angles can/do still match and the bolt holes seem to align correctly from side to side, I assume this is just an old-truck, modify-as-needed type thing. Or maybe the bracket needs to have that plate just extend down further, because then it would contact the axle tube. Either way, I don't think it will cause any problems going forward.
I’m not sure if I’m understanding correctly, but in case this helps:I could be wrong but looking at the shape of that plate, it should be slid closer to the axle tube, the curve matches the C on the end.
I don't think it needed to lign up with the end to the other plate like I assumed you did.
Unless that plate had indexing tabs and couldn't slide further
I thought they came separate.I’m not sure if I’m understanding correctly, but in case this helps:
The bracket comes fully assembled, so short of cutting it apart and putting it back together slightly differently, there was no way to make that plate actually touch the axle tube without very obviously throwing off the fitment of multiple other areas of the bracket. The bracket has partial-circle cutouts in it that go around the axle tube, so there isn’t really any up/down or forward/backward adjustment possible. The only adjustment is rotation around the axle tube (which is supposed to match the passenger side via an angle finder) and sliding left/right along the tube (I butted it up to the inner C as much as possible).
I definitely appreciate any input and I’m sorry if I’m misunderstanding anything! I do agree though that the plate in question does seem like it needs to slide closer to the tube (which would have also made it “key” onto the inner C better), unfortunately there’s just no way to do that short of cutting the bracket apart and welding it back together.
Or something is about to go to shit and set you back 2 weeksThis is a fact of life. If you're ever getting way more done than expected, it's later in the day/week/month/year than you thought it was.