Totally missed this. What’s up?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
From post 7.
"Not really budgeted for a trans rebuild at the moment when the 700r4 only has 16k miles on its rebuild. So i started looking at other option. I came a cross what i think was a good deal on a 98 vortec 454 with all its accessories and wiring harness. So i went and picked it up. But I can't use the fuel injection on it as I run into the same problem with the ls swap
Trying to figure out how to hook up my trans cable. So it looks like I will be switching it back to carburetor for the time being,"
Martin
"Not really budgeted for a trans rebuild at the moment when the 700r4 only has 16k miles on its rebuild. So i started looking at other option. I came a cross what i think was a good deal on a 98 vortec 454 with all its accessories and wiring harness. So i went and picked it up. But I can't use the fuel injection on it as I run into the same problem with the ls swap
Trying to figure out how to hook up my trans cable. So it looks like I will be switching it back to carburetor for the time being,"
Martin
1/23/22 update
24 volt rear window.....
So like everyone knows the rear window motors in these things suck. Ive clean and greased the track and cable, replaced the motor, checked the wires and amperage pulled to no help. So I got to search the inter web on what to do. I found many forms where people have talled about making it a 24 volt system but no one to my knowledge ever went through with it. So I got out a extra lawnmower battery and wired it into the switch. That window zips up and down with ease now. Dont put your fingers in between or it may chop them off. So now that I know a 24 volt system works well I needed a way to simplify it. So I came up with using a 24 volt battery from my rechargeable kobalt leaf blower. I attached a wire to the cab of the truck and ran it to the negative terminal on the battery and then ran a wire from the positive side to the positive on the back of the window switch(remember to remover the original 12 volt power feed as to not 24 volt your whole system) I then put the batter in the glove box for the time being. So if it starts to get weak then I just swap out batteries and be done with it. So now is just the test of time to see how well the switch and the window motor holds up.
24 volt rear window.....
So like everyone knows the rear window motors in these things suck. Ive clean and greased the track and cable, replaced the motor, checked the wires and amperage pulled to no help. So I got to search the inter web on what to do. I found many forms where people have talled about making it a 24 volt system but no one to my knowledge ever went through with it. So I got out a extra lawnmower battery and wired it into the switch. That window zips up and down with ease now. Dont put your fingers in between or it may chop them off. So now that I know a 24 volt system works well I needed a way to simplify it. So I came up with using a 24 volt battery from my rechargeable kobalt leaf blower. I attached a wire to the cab of the truck and ran it to the negative terminal on the battery and then ran a wire from the positive side to the positive on the back of the window switch(remember to remover the original 12 volt power feed as to not 24 volt your whole system) I then put the batter in the glove box for the time being. So if it starts to get weak then I just swap out batteries and be done with it. So now is just the test of time to see how well the switch and the window motor holds up.
I was able to get my old 350 running alot better. Replaced all the vacuum lines and caps, adjusted the timing. I pulled off the old Holley 670 fuel injection kick and installed the new fitech kit. This thing starts so easy and runs so smooth now. Only downside with the fitech is a extremely loud fuel pump.
On the bad side I do think the 350 has a blown head gasket and is leaking some water into the combustion chamber but not much. I changed the oil and it looked fine, jist old and black so we will see. Im hoping to get it inspected and registered this week so I am able to drive it around town and see how it goes. Im still waiting on piston for the 454 rebuild with no delivery date yet :/
I also changed the transmission filter and 4 quarts of fluid. The fluid was a bit on the darkside but smelled fine with a small bit of buildup in the pan. So im sure after I get the 454 in there I will need to start looking for a 4l80 to put behind it.
On the bad side I do think the 350 has a blown head gasket and is leaking some water into the combustion chamber but not much. I changed the oil and it looked fine, jist old and black so we will see. Im hoping to get it inspected and registered this week so I am able to drive it around town and see how it goes. Im still waiting on piston for the 454 rebuild with no delivery date yet :/
I also changed the transmission filter and 4 quarts of fluid. The fluid was a bit on the darkside but smelled fine with a small bit of buildup in the pan. So im sure after I get the 454 in there I will need to start looking for a 4l80 to put behind it.
Sorry I havent give any updates in a while. Been busy with work and not enough funds able to go to the project.
I got the 454 back from the machine shop. Had them complete the short block for me. I redid the heads myself and amd got the motor ready to install. I installed the big block with out to much trouble and was able to use the original serpentine belt setup. Went a head and replaced the water pump, alternator and power steering pump.
I got the 454 back from the machine shop. Had them complete the short block for me. I redid the heads myself and amd got the motor ready to install. I installed the big block with out to much trouble and was able to use the original serpentine belt setup. Went a head and replaced the water pump, alternator and power steering pump.
I found me a awesome deal on a 4l80e that I picked up for 200 bucks. Supposedly it was out of a wrecked truck with 160k on the dash. Pulled the pan off and fluid looked pretty good with no smell or anything to it. So im going to try and run it as is. Also got the np241c woth it as well. Unfortunately its a drivers drop but that may play in my favor as its easier to pick up a set of ford 1 ton axles than ot is old scholl gm axles. So now im pretty much waiting on new lines, cooler and fitech programmer. Then hopefully I can get it on the road.
Question - Does anyone know where I can get a dipstick for a 96-99 gen 6 454 out of a c3500 frame. Been lookong like crazy and cant find one. Was able to order the dipstick tube but it seems no one sells the dipstick itself anymore.
