CK5
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'85 on big tars.(pics & video)
- Thread starter Stomper
- Start date
So far the air compressor has never been used. We just weren't happy with the arrangement of the components considering the space we have to mount it. Looks like a quality piece though.
Do these old Dodge cummins alternators require an external voltage regulator?
Do these old Dodge cummins alternators require an external voltage regulator?
Need some help here with the Dodge alternator. Would like to retain the factory alternator but have discovered they are externally regulated.
This is a 1993. Regulators at the local auto parts store stop at 1992. I'm starting to think the ECM controlled the voltage output for this particular alternator.
Can this regulator from a 1992 be wired to this alternator? And if so, does anybody have a plug that has the right connection on it?
Pics coming.
This is a 1993. Regulators at the local auto parts store stop at 1992. I'm starting to think the ECM controlled the voltage output for this particular alternator.
Can this regulator from a 1992 be wired to this alternator? And if so, does anybody have a plug that has the right connection on it?
Pics coming.
sorry I didn't see this earlier...here is some info and link to the external regulator
http://dieselconversion.com/catalog...rnator-Regulator-Kit-Dodge-Cummins-Alternator
and more on that subject...
"When using the 12 Valve Dodge alternator, an external voltage regulator is needed to replace the Dodge’s PCM regulating function. In our experience these work better than an internal regulator that is available for these alternators. The kit also includes a wire pigtail connector. 99-02 Cummins swaps may use the Dodge PCM to regulate the alternator. Most GM alternators have a single wire connection to the battery and can be desirable but we have concluded that no custom pulleys or belt lengths is much better for routine maintenance reasons."
http://dieselconversion.com//knowledgebase/Conversion-Overviews/GM-Chevy-1978-1999-Diesel-Gas
http://dieselconversion.com/catalog...rnator-Regulator-Kit-Dodge-Cummins-Alternator
and more on that subject...
"When using the 12 Valve Dodge alternator, an external voltage regulator is needed to replace the Dodge’s PCM regulating function. In our experience these work better than an internal regulator that is available for these alternators. The kit also includes a wire pigtail connector. 99-02 Cummins swaps may use the Dodge PCM to regulate the alternator. Most GM alternators have a single wire connection to the battery and can be desirable but we have concluded that no custom pulleys or belt lengths is much better for routine maintenance reasons."
http://dieselconversion.com//knowledgebase/Conversion-Overviews/GM-Chevy-1978-1999-Diesel-Gas
Thanks Dave. Got it figured out. Picked up the regulator locally for $20 and the pigtail for another $10.
Now if I can figure out what my brother did with my nut sert tool, i'll be golden on this one.
Gona try and knock out some tube doors this week.
Now if I can figure out what my brother did with my nut sert tool, i'll be golden on this one.
Gona try and knock out some tube doors this week.
Got a good start on the tube doors tonight. Maybe Brett will post up a photo.
Have some wierd issues with the turn signals. I think i'm getting a feedback through the brake light circuit. I'm using one of the trailer light converters that combines the brakes and the turn signals into one wire to each light. That's the only place that I know of that the two systems come together.
Have some wierd issues with the turn signals. I think i'm getting a feedback through the brake light circuit. I'm using one of the trailer light converters that combines the brakes and the turn signals into one wire to each light. That's the only place that I know of that the two systems come together.
Tube doors getting a coat of paint tomorrow. Still have some panels to do on the doors but hoping those are pretty straight forward.
I had made a mistake on the dash column cover, more specifically, placement of the grid heater button and start button. The back side of them were touch the steering column bearing which would be a dead short and that's not gona work. Made a new column cover and moved the buttons and LED indicators. Mrk5 got the wrap on it for me and it made it back today so that was immediately bolted on.
Gona get some fuel in it very soon and get it started up for the first time.
I had made a mistake on the dash column cover, more specifically, placement of the grid heater button and start button. The back side of them were touch the steering column bearing which would be a dead short and that's not gona work. Made a new column cover and moved the buttons and LED indicators. Mrk5 got the wrap on it for me and it made it back today so that was immediately bolted on.
Gona get some fuel in it very soon and get it started up for the first time.
That pic looks a bit weird doesn't it. The roll cage tube looks like its coming out of the top of the door.
Got another pic to up load of the two doors with some tabs on them ready for paint.
Brett had a cool idea for the hood. making it so the sides hinge up to the center like and old school car. I like the idea. Something different and as Brett said, kinda goes along with the grille design.
This is the flasher I run with LED taillights on my 92 that got rid of the hyprrflash.
How did you end up with hyper flash with LED's? That's kinda backwards. Usually you get the hyper flash with incandescents and a trailer hooked up with standard duty flasher. More load than what the flasher was designed for so it flashes really fast.
LED's are the opposite. Not enough load to cause it to generate the heat to flash.
We still have issues with the turn signal and tail lights.
We're using a trailer converter to put the brake lights and turn signals together on the same wire.
With the left turn signal we have some flashing on the right side of the truck. Dimly but definitely there.
Same way with the right turn signal.
There is a low voltage coming through the tail lights on the opposite side. I think I may have a bad trailer converter.
EDIT: Also switched to an electronic flasher and still won't flash without an incandescent wired in. Once that's there it flashes just fine.
We're using a trailer converter to put the brake lights and turn signals together on the same wire.
With the left turn signal we have some flashing on the right side of the truck. Dimly but definitely there.
Same way with the right turn signal.
There is a low voltage coming through the tail lights on the opposite side. I think I may have a bad trailer converter.
EDIT: Also switched to an electronic flasher and still won't flash without an incandescent wired in. Once that's there it flashes just fine.
