CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'85 on big tars.(pics & video)
- Thread starter Stomper
- Start date
I think i'm gona have to go that route. Would really like to sort out this issue first.
http://vid264.photobucket.com/albums/ii161/cybrfire/IMG_1099_zps32d08a7f.mp4
http://vid264.photobucket.com/albums/ii161/cybrfire/IMG_1099_zps32d08a7f.mp4
Turns out we have a bad starter.
A few months ago, the starter rolled the engine over. Today the starter gear would pop out but would not turn nor engage the flex plate ring gear teeth.
Aside from that, we have all the fluids topped off and some other small issues sorted out. Once we get a new starter will get it fired up.
A few months ago, the starter rolled the engine over. Today the starter gear would pop out but would not turn nor engage the flex plate ring gear teeth.
Aside from that, we have all the fluids topped off and some other small issues sorted out. Once we get a new starter will get it fired up.
New starter will be here tomorrow.
Current to do list.
Trail cameras (ALMOST 1 camera left but can't do it yet. This one will be mounted on the belly skid.)
Rock light install and wiring (ALMOST These will be done tomorrow.)
Rear Stop, tail and turn including markers (Need a resistor to make the flashers work with LED's)
Hand throttle
Air compressor mounting and plumbing (Almost done)
Front driveshaft
Belly skid
Tube doors (Almost there)
turbo intercooler
hood
Trail cameras (ALMOST 1 camera left but can't do it yet. This one will be mounted on the belly skid.)
Rock light install and wiring (ALMOST These will be done tomorrow.)
Rear Stop, tail and turn including markers (Need a resistor to make the flashers work with LED's)
Hand throttle
Air compressor mounting and plumbing (Almost done)
Front driveshaft
Belly skid
Tube doors (Almost there)
turbo intercooler
hood
y5mgisi
1 ton status
So cool to see it nearing completion!
One more down.
Trail cameras (ALMOST 1 camera left but can't do it yet. This one will be mounted on the belly skid.)
Rear Stop, tail and turn including markers (Need a resistor to make the flashers work with LED's)
Hand throttle
Air compressor mounting and plumbing (Almost done)
Front driveshaft
Belly skid
Tube doors (Almost there)
turbo intercooler
hood
Trail cameras (ALMOST 1 camera left but can't do it yet. This one will be mounted on the belly skid.)
Rear Stop, tail and turn including markers (Need a resistor to make the flashers work with LED's)
Hand throttle
Air compressor mounting and plumbing (Almost done)
Front driveshaft
Belly skid
Tube doors (Almost there)
turbo intercooler
hood
We have some sort of "finish the truck blockage" happening over here.
Brett brought up a new starter and it looks identical to the old one but it does not fit. The nose of the starter doesn't fit into the hole in the adapter plate.
According to the numbers, its the correct one. We're gona see if we can switch noses from one starter to another. Got to get the old one back first.
Rear turn signals are still screwy. Tail lights work, brake lights work but the turn signals will flash on both sides. Brilliantly on the side that is selected and dimmly on the other side. We've gone over the wiring several times and can't seem to find anything that would explain the feedback if that's what it is. We've tried a different trailer converter and it did exactly the same thing.
We did however, get the tube doors painted and bolted back on and some templates for the skins layed out.
Brett brought up a new starter and it looks identical to the old one but it does not fit. The nose of the starter doesn't fit into the hole in the adapter plate.
According to the numbers, its the correct one. We're gona see if we can switch noses from one starter to another. Got to get the old one back first.
Rear turn signals are still screwy. Tail lights work, brake lights work but the turn signals will flash on both sides. Brilliantly on the side that is selected and dimmly on the other side. We've gone over the wiring several times and can't seem to find anything that would explain the feedback if that's what it is. We've tried a different trailer converter and it did exactly the same thing.
We did however, get the tube doors painted and bolted back on and some templates for the skins layed out.
Kurt how exactly is it wired? Is the problem amplified when the running lights are on? Why are you using the trailer converter again?
'85 on big tars.(up next tube doors)
Have you measured the voltage coming through on the other side? Also the led lights you are using are they three pin?
Have you measured the voltage coming through on the other side? Also the led lights you are using are they three pin?
Buddy of mine was having trouble with tail lights, ended up finding a loose ground wire under the dash on or near the column. Don't know if it applies to your setup but thought I would throw it there because it was long time figuring out what it was.
Ok, full description of the problem.
When the left signal is selected, some of the LED's on the right flash but dimly. Left side does flash.
When the right signal is selected, the problem is the same but reversed to the other side.
Voltage on the dimly lit bulbs is like 4v if memory serves.
When the head/tail lights are on, the problem goes away but, I believe it only goes away because the light switch has supplied a solid 12v to the LED's in that circuit.
Here is a wiring diagram. Please excuse the crudity and i'm sure some of my symbols are incorrect but it'll get the idea across. And this is to the best of my memory but electrically it should be correct. Some discussion has been had about where the ground for the lights should be. Currently its under the dash. Diagram shows it at the light however, it is under the dash. Electrically, its grounded. Don't think it matters where.
When the left signal is selected, some of the LED's on the right flash but dimly. Left side does flash.
When the right signal is selected, the problem is the same but reversed to the other side.
Voltage on the dimly lit bulbs is like 4v if memory serves.
When the head/tail lights are on, the problem goes away but, I believe it only goes away because the light switch has supplied a solid 12v to the LED's in that circuit.
Here is a wiring diagram. Please excuse the crudity and i'm sure some of my symbols are incorrect but it'll get the idea across. And this is to the best of my memory but electrically it should be correct. Some discussion has been had about where the ground for the lights should be. Currently its under the dash. Diagram shows it at the light however, it is under the dash. Electrically, its grounded. Don't think it matters where.
The problem with LED's and a standard flasher is the LED's don't draw enough amperage for the flasher to get hot enough to operate. For testing purposes, we've wired in a single incandescent bulb to the wires that are in place for front turn signals. That single incandescent with the LED's draws enough amperage to make the flasher operate normally.
Even with the incandescent in the works, it still flashes dimly on the opposite side of the truck.
