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86 Blazer from across the pond!

M

mm289

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Hiya all, just picked up my first Blazer over here in the UK, got a Mustang and an old Dodge so thought it was about time I add a Chevy to the yard :waytogo:

Has been mucked about a fair bit before I got it, been turned into a pickup and a bulkhead welded in, also was used as a shooting truck so has been covered in camouflage vinyl wrap :eek1:



Motivation is a pretty tired 6.2 diesel, its running a NP208 and the drive train looks pretty standard. Haven't managed to ID the transmission yet, cant find the tag, but assuming its a 700R4.

Body tag says it had decent options originally, a/c, cruise, HD towing pack etc.


At the moment it goes OK, kinda :rolleyes:, uses some oil, transmission is slipping in and out of lock up in top at 60+, doen't like starting that much even though its not cold - normal sort of stuff :doah:

So thats the intro, look forward to a few updates soon :D

Cheers,

MM
 
Welcome to CK5. Can't wait to see what you do with it.
 
Cheers guys :), yeh, they used the car for shooting so the roll bars were a rifle rest as well - could have mounted a 50 cal for the size of them!!

They also made the front and rear bumpers/nudge bars, which probably weigh as much as the truck lol

MM
 
There are a few right hand drive converted ones over here but most US stuff is still left hand drive. its not like down in Australia where you have to convert it. because we are so close to mainland Europe where everything is LHD its kinda normal :)

And I have a Mustang and Dodge Business Coupe so i'm kinda used to it as well

Cheers,

MM
 
So got a chance to have a closer look at the truck last couple of days.

It has got air assisted shocks fitted, look like Gabriel Hijackers? Springs look standard complete with a snapped leaf :doah:


Also the shock was hanging off the top mounting bolt, turns out someone had stripped the thread. Didn't have a bolt similar size so cut off the stripped thread and welded a new piece of M10 on.:rolleyes:





This thing has had a lot of plating on the rockers etc althought the main chassis rails look good, the inner wings are all shot though.:frown1:

Took it out for a drive today and got a couple of problems on the transmission (700R4) - can put a post in the garage but thought I would throw it on here first.

1. the overdrive (lockup?) is slipping in and out, you can here the revs rising and falling and occassionaly you get a vibration as it slips
2. somethimes you can hear a loud speed related clicking, like someone running a screwdriver over the spokes on a bike wheel, then if you let the speed drop/pull over it will stop and the driveline will shunt like a cog has suddenly enagaged.

Kinda resigned to dropping the box and getting it overhauled but any initial thoughts on these problems?:dunno:

Cheers,

MM
 
Maybe send Greg Ducato a private message. He is one of our tranny gurus.
 
I'm no expert but usually 90% of user problems with the 700r4 seems to be the TV cable setting. Make sure it's set properly and the fluid is at the proper level.
 
how did you. build the roll cage for blazer I have an 84 that I'm rebuilding from the ground up and also would like to know if anyway possible to completely get rid of the wheel wells
 
HI George, the roll cage was in when I got it, they have left the wheel wells in place and mounted the cage infront and behind.

Cheers,

MM
 
So, have had a look at the transmission, TV cable was miles out, it was in the fully back position like when you release the "d" button but haven't cranked the throttle all the way round to reset.

Also needed 4 PINTS of fluid to get the level back :doah:

The good news is it is changing much better now - the bad news is I can only guess at what damage the PO has done by running it with so little fluid :dunno:

Next challenge is it is wandering all over the road! Got underneath and pretty much all the ball joints are shot :whistle:

So question for you guys, need to figure out which parts I need to order as the setup seems different to what my Chilton manual shows. I have 1 straight bar across the front connecting the two hub, then a tie rod from the Pitman arm to the back of the drivers side hub assembly. Need all 4 ball joints, plan on ordering Moog but as I will need to get them shipped over from the US I want to make sure I order the right ones!



Any help with part numbers/descriptions would be great :waytogo:

Cheers,

MM
 
Ripped from my own build thread on a 1990 Blazer.

Moog pn# K8194T
Moog pn# K8195T

Those are the upper and lower ball joints. Not sure on your local pricing but here they ran me about $71 for each upper and about $63 for each lower

Drag link ends were:

TRW pn#ES2027L
TRW pn#ES2026R

One left hand thread, the other right hand thread. The adjuster sleeve was:

TRW pn#ES362S

The whole drag link assembly ran about $150.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

IIRC the tie rod is a long bar with a tie rod end attached, an adjuster sleeve and a short tie rod end. Mine was fine so I left it alone.
 
Ball joints are a big job requiring a near total tear down. While you are doing it you should really consider doing the inner axle seals and axle u joints.
 
@chevy305
Just planning on doing the TRE and DRE's this time round. Will do a bigger strip down of axles at some point later.

@Rusty, thanks fo rthat. Mine is an '86 so not sure if its the same part numbers - will have to try and check.

Sounds a similar setup, 1 long bar connecting wheels with an adjuster at one end (pic 3) then a drag link from Pitman arm to the steering armj on the hub with a ball joint at each end.

need all 4 as they are all badly worn.

Cheers,

MM
 
If it's a 10 bolt front the pn#'s will work for you.

BTW, I'd do axle U-joints while you're at it too. They're pretty much in your hands already...just good insurance. I did mine with forged Spicer's while I was doing ball joints et al.
 
Yep, tierod is the long one. Draglink is the short one.
Ball joints will take some work doing.
Like Glenn said, inner bearing seals and U joints. Also look into replacing the axle bearings inside the spindle (not wheel bearings, those are different, but probably need changing/ greasing too) Ditch the needle bearings for these Longfield Axle pieces: https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/prodInfo/image/301694-2-KIT_ID.jpg

Also, check the frame for cracks around the steering box. It happens often and is best checked with the box off (like when replacing everything else :) ) The steering shaft going from the column to the steering box can also have some play in it.

By now, they have had a rough life. Unfortunately when you've got a "hobby" OR "sickness", you tend to get stuck with fixing them.
 
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