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86 Blazer from across the pond!

Thanks guys, I run a few old cars so used to the money pits these hobbies can become!! Just doing a 49 Dodge Business Coupe atbthe same time.

Rusty, saw the P/N's for the ball joints and DLE, do you happen tohave them for the TRE's?

Cheers,

MM
 
Sorry mate, didn't do my TRE's so never found or posted pn#'s. Someone here has them...and I'm sure they'll post up shortly.
 
Chevy305 said:
Ball joints are a big job requiring a near total tear down. While you are doing it you should really consider doing the inner axle seals and axle u joints.
Click to expand...

Ok, Ok I surrender, you and Rusty must have your crystal ball out:bow:

Took it out for a drive today having wacked the ball joints full of grease as a temporary measure. pulled into a parking lot and thunk thunk thunk on partial lock - sounds pretty much like the driver sode UJ :doah:

Think it is going up on axle stands and i am going to strip the whole front end down and check/replace everything - could be a while before it is back on the road:whistle:

cheers,

MM
 
There are just some jobs that should get done at the same time. :dunno:

Frankly if you're waiting for parts, unlock the hubs and keep it out of 4 WD and you can still drive it with wasted axle shaft UJ's.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Frankly if you're waiting for parts, unlock the hubs and keep it out of 4 WD and you can still drive it with wasted axle shaft UJ's.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming the auto locking hubs are unlocked but is there any way of permantly unlocking them?

Cheers,

MM
 
All you do is put it in 2HI and then reverse for about 20ft or 7ish meters in your case :wink1: and it automatically disengages.
 
Lol, cheers Glenn, same as the Jap stuff I have had before then. Gonna put it up on stands next just to check whats going on with the front end before I strip it down,

Cheers,

MM
 
OK, started to strip down the front axle tonight. Wheels off, TRE's and DRE's off and started stripping down the passenger side hub.

Pulled the freewheeling hubs, do these look like standard fitment?



Got the hub off, retaining nuts/lock rings had been hammered to pieces by not using the right tool, looks like some wear on the spindle and inner hub bearing as well - will see how well this cleans up



Then pulled the drive shaft. The UJ is actually quite solid but rusty as hell, rather more worryingly when the shaft came out it had a very watery oil mixed with grit on it:doah:


Figure the diff cover seal has gone south - will open all that up to have a look another day.

Upper ball joint is totally shot, got about 1/16th movement in it. Will be replacing everything on the axle, seals/bearings/ball joints etc - mainly using Moog, Timken and AC Delco so should last a few years given it will have a pretty easy life.

If it helps anyone, this is the part number table I put together from various sources

TRE Left - Moog ES2233L, AC Delco 45A0274/
TRE Right - Moog ES2234R, AC Delco 45A0275/46A0274A
DRE Left - TRW ES2027L, AC Delco 45A0194/46A0194A
DRE Right - TRW ES2026R, AC Delco 45A0195/46A0195A
Upper ball joint - Moog K8194T, AC Delco 45D0070/46D0070A
Lower Ball Joint - Moog K8195T, AC Delco 45D2156/46D2156A
Upper Ball joint Adjuster - AC Delco 45D4001
UJ Right - AC Delco 45U0104/45U0114, Moog 377, Dana 5760x
UJ Left - AC Delco 45U0104/45U0114, Moog 377
Wheel Bearings - AC Delco S609, Timken LM104949-LM104910
Wheel bearing Seal - AC Delco 290-277, DNA 36366, Timken 471271
Axle outer shaft bearing - AC Delco B2110, DANA B2110, Timken 2110

Cheers,

MM
 
A bit of fine emery paper should clean up the spindle seal surface, unless it's more deeply scarred than it appears in your pics. Hopefully that gritty slush on the shaft is more from the inside of the tube than from the inside of the diff.

It would be a good idea to make a rake with a similar radius to the inside of the axle tubes so you can drag the accumulated gunk out before re-assembly. Doing that can be the difference between having leaking inner seals later, or not. The inner seals are a pain, as you could imagine.
 
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