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'86 Jimmy 4in Lift, 40’s, tons, 8.1 Swap- 700r4 said PNNNNN

This is not a dedicated trail rig, but does trailer to the destination usually. I am currently in the planning phase of doing a 52/56" spring swap, and getting back to being more road worthy.
You were just talking about fixing the body damage to keep it nice, presumably a part time street driven truck. Wouldn't a full hydraulic conversion be going to other way towards a dedicated wheeler?

If it may be a part time street driven truck, I'd get the opinion of people that have driven full hydro on the street. Of course, all orbital valves aren't the same so you wouldn't want one that required 10 turns lock to lock.
 
So someone has to be the smart-butt here..

I think that it's a case of SQUIRREL !

Except it's PARTS!

I'm like @campfire, if you want to wrench on something, come on over!
 
Those are all thoughts I kind of have bouncing around in my head. The main reason why i want full hydro, is I plan on doing a 52" swap and moving the axle forward a few inches. And it would be easier to add an orbital than to mess the with the steering linkage.
 
Are the front springs holding you back?
I had his grand idea of doing a 52/56 or 63 swap, and making is super flexy. Which is why I bought these super long Fox Shox.
Most guys I know don't like the orbital all that much.

Ever drive it on the street?
I really don't drive it on the street much. Maybe a few miles a year. Like 50-75.
 
Those are all thoughts I kind of have bouncing around in my head. The main reason why i want full hydro, is I plan on doing a 52" swap and moving the axle forward a few inches. And it would be easier to add an orbital than to mess the with the steering linkage.

Is this just for wheelbase purposes? Methinks you'll have a fairly large amount of time invested by the time you get things back together. Will it actually be worthwhile? IDK, it might depend on how bored you are. :dunno:
 
Is this just for wheelbase purposes? Methinks you'll have a fairly large amount of time invested by the time you get things back together. Will it actually be worthwhile? IDK, it might depend on how bored you are. :dunno:
The purpose is to make it more capable. That's why we build these truck. Bored? No. Worthwhile? Yes. Any upgrade we make to these Offroad rigs is usually worthwhile. And at this point, all of us who have built on our truck have more time invested in these than we would like to admit.
 
The purpose is to make it more capable. That's why we build these truck. Bored? No. Worthwhile? Yes. Any upgrade we make to these Offroad rigs is usually worthwhile. And at this point, all of us who have built on our truck have more time invested in these than we would like to admit.

Yes, I do have more time invested than I'm happy about. Some things took much longer than I imagined. And that's why I'm starting to get more picky about what things I take on. Several of my mods have been of marginal benefit, those ones weren't worthwhile (in hindsight). None of this applies to you or your rig, but it does illustrate the process...and also why my trucks are more boring than yours. :crazy:
 
Check out TNA for 64" spring swap brackets if you are thinking of doing that. I need to get my front 52" swap figured out and done to match my rear 64" flex.
 
Check out TNA for 64" spring swap brackets if you are thinking of doing that. I need to get my front 52" swap figured out and done to match my rear 64" flex.
You kept your axle centerline fairly close to factory correct? I am not planning on leaving my axle in the stock location. I want to gain a fair amount of wheelbase. I got to try to keep up with all the long wheelbase Nebraska Cornholler trucks...
 
You kept your axle centerline fairly close to factory correct? I am not planning on leaving my axle in the stock location. I want to gain a fair amount of wheelbase. I got to try to keep up with all the long wheelbase Nebraska Cornholler trucks...
I moved my rear axle back maybe 2" It's prob about as close to the fuel tank as I can get it but could go another inch or so maybe. (I do have the 31 gal diesel tank) The front is also moved forward due to the shorter springs I'm currently running. I thinks it's in about the same place a 52" spring swap would put it. I had to shorten my drag link almost all the way up and I do get some decent bump steer. I really need to do crossover but it doesn't make sense to do it with my 10 bolt. I have a flat top knuckle dana 44 that needs to be gone through and have the knuckle machined. I will have to measure my wheelbase sometime. It works good, I didn't have any issues dragging the front or rear in Moab last year coming off some pretty steep stuff unless it was a straight drop off a ledge. Do you currently have crossover? You should be able to push your axle forward a fair amount I would imagine.
 
I moved my rear axle back maybe 2" It's prob about as close to the fuel tank as I can get it but could go another inch or so maybe. (I do have the 31 gal diesel tank) The front is also moved forward due to the shorter springs I'm currently running. I thinks it's in about the same place a 52" spring swap would put it. I had to shorten my drag link almost all the way up and I do get some decent bump steer. I really need to do crossover but it doesn't make sense to do it with my 10 bolt. I have a flat top knuckle dana 44 that needs to be gone through and have the knuckle machined. I will have to measure my wheelbase sometime. It works good, I didn't have any issues dragging the front or rear in Moab last year coming off some pretty steep stuff unless it was a straight drop off a ledge. Do you currently have crossover? You should be able to push your axle forward a fair amount I would imagine.
I do have cross over, and I have high steer.

With this set up you can see that I don't have room to move forward without undoing a lot of my previous work.
photo 4 (3).JPG
 
Can you move it forward and then mount the drag link on top of the pass side tie rod end with a rod end but add some to make it double shear or something?
 
Scratch that cuz then you will have binding issues at full stuff on that side since you are already pretty flat with the drag link to tie rod angles.
See, I just don't know how to go about doing it without completely redoing my setup. And if I'm going to go the length of cutting and welding new linkage and stuff, I might as well just mount and orbital and be done.
 

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