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87 from Stock to Performance

Black_Obsidian

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Apr 30, 2026
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Yuma, AZ
Been slowly gutting the front end of my rig. My idea is just a daily driver/ trail rig until I get my other rig up. This is my first ever overhaul like this. I'm not a mechanic, but I know how to read and use various tools. This is my current list of everything I think I need for my new engine start up. I'm looking for advice and tips if im missing something on this list also installing advice. i decided on the the blueprint SBC 390hp instead of fraser engine

Engine= Blueprint SBC390hp Longblock
Spark Plug=NGK7938 Gap=.035 Wires=Holley Extreme 9000 Ceramic Boot
Harmonic Balancer=Blueprint 8”
Flexplate=Blueprint 168tooth
Intake Manifold=Blueprint Dualplane Aluminum
Water Pump=ACDelco252-595
Thermostat=FlowKooler Robertshaw Series High Performance Thermostats 330-180
Water neck=Jegs Aluminum 90-degree Swivel
Water Pump Pulley=Jegs Double Groove Pulley
Fuel System=Aces Killshot 2 Pro Master Kits
Radiator=Champion Radiator 3row CC161 with dual electric fans
Power Steering=CVF Saginaw P Series with 1 Groove Pulley
Headers=Sanderson C33DP Full-Length
Oil filter adapter=Setrab 20-Row Series 9 Oil Cooler with Thermostatic Oil Cooler Sandwich plate
Transmission Cooler=Setrab 20-Row Series 9 Oil Cooler
Stater=MSD DynaForce Starter
Motor Mounts=Offroad Design Competition Style
Fuel filter=WIX 33481
 
Had the original 350 TBI setup and 10-bolt axles front and rear
Trans and Transfer=700R4/NP205 Plan on doing level 2 rebuilt on the trans
Suspension=4-inch lift would like to go to 6
Steering=Stock but planning to run the Davis Offroad Crossover Steering Kit along with a Borgeson steering shaft and heavy-duty gearbox.
I know with more power the 10-bolts won't hold up forever. I’ve heard I should look for a Dana 60 in the junkyard for the rear, but I’m not sure what I should be looking for to match it in the front.
Is a junkyard Dana 60 the right call for the rear or should I look for a 14bolt FF?
If I go with a 60 in the rear what front axle setup would you recommend to match?
Also do I need to do anything with the ECM or is it possible to self learn?
 
Find a 14 bolt - it's way bigger, typically cheaper to buy, definitely cheaper to build and very plentiful. If you find one from a 3/4 ton square body it’s a direct bolt in.

A front D60 is all the rage but they can be expensive to buy (+ build) so you’ll need to weigh whether or not you need one. There’s no shame in a 3/4 ton front if you’re not beating on it hard.
 
33?

I know I suggested the 14 bolt but realistically if you’re running smaller than a 37 the diff may hang too low and get caught on a lot. I still don’t know if I’d run a rear 60 but something with more clearance might be better.
Yeah
Will changing the gear ratio in my current setup be more reasonable
 
33?

I know I suggested the 14 bolt but realistically if you’re running smaller than a 37 the diff may hang too low and get caught on a lot. I still don’t know if I’d run a rear 60 but something with more clearance might be better.
I would do a full float rear 60 for anything up to 37", they have better clearance than a 14bff.
I actually have one I might use to replace a 14bsf in my suburban diesel.
It's not going bigger than 33" tires
 
33s you can get away with 2-2.5 lift. Keep your center of gravity lower.
At your 4" lift you should go with 35s and 4.56-4.88 ring gear.
As for axles either the 60 or 14b. The later model 14b has disc brakes and is an excellent choice for the rear.
Front is harder D60 passenger drop diffs are expensive in west, east coast the prices are better.
F250 super duties are cheap and every where, but tgey are driver drop To use you need new t case, extensive axle mods to use leaf springs or go straight to 4 link and coils. Check out Hillbilly wizard if this appeals to you.
 

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