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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

Very nice work! Im not sure I know what the carbon coating is. Do you have a pic with some of it on and some of it ground off?

2nd I know you are quick to defend body shops but I would like to know if you think my 2 local shops are up in the night on price.

What we have is a 71 ford short bed 2wd. It is in VERY good condition zero major damage and zero rust. It has quite a few dings but no real damage. it does have screw in snap buttons on the bed for a soft bed cover, so about 50 +/- screw holes to weld up.

I took it to 2 local shops and said I would strip the truck of all the chrome and bumpers gril glass rubber ect. so it would be ready to start on.

The first shop quoted me $4600 for the body work and single stage paint in the original color.

shop number 2 quoted me $4800 for the same thing.

Now I realize its still a lot of sandingand prep work but I still think this is pretty damn high for the easy body work and single stage paint.

EDIT: remember this is body and paint work ONLY I would be doing the reassembly of the above mentioned stuff I take off for them. If they was doing all that as well I would feel the price was more justified.

when my dad had his 56 chevy car done the whole pass side rear quarter and a lot of the trunk was smashed. He paid $4000 cash for the body work and paint on that. Granted that was almost 10 years ago and it wasnt a shop but a guy in his own shop behind his house.

Now the rant. these are the ONLY 2 shops in my area that will even take NON insurace work. here is probably 5 other shops around here but they wont even consiter doing it unless its insurance work. THAT is something that pisses me off....... Its like saying 'oh your money is no good to us. stop bothering us.''
 
well, ya gotta figure a grand for materials, primer, paint, hardener, reducer, etc.. my bud just had his old coupe painted candy apple red, and the material costs where $2300.... :eek1: paint prices have really gone thru the roof the last 5 yrs or so..

so, that leaves $3600 or so.... at $75 an hr (just an average # I'm throwing out), thats about 48 hrs of labor.. pretty easy to have that kinda time in a full paint job..

as for the insurance thing.. yeah, when I worked collision, alot of shops where like that... kind of a built in excuse for them to turn away work..

you can kinda see the carbon film in these shots... it's the dark gray coating....


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sh*t's a pain.... :mad: you can see the little piles of it here and there from all the grinding....
 
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ok, I'm a bored insomniac..... :doah:

was gonna wait till tomorrow, but I'll throw a couple pics up now for the beer drinking crowd....... :wink1:




changed up the frame/floor design a little in an effort to make everything under the truck more easily rinsed out and not have catchspot's for mud, etc... here's the corner I changed up... took out the small angle pieces...




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tab......


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and squared off that whole upper corner....


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should rinse out good.....



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hopefully get a good day in tomorrow.....
 
Paul,

Get to it....the guys on this site seem to really love seeing photos of "jackstand wheelers" like you and me. There was almost a revolt last night when I neglected to post my daily progress. :D

I would like to formally request some long shots of your truck showing the whole thing from as far away as you can get with the camera... sometimes after a few dozen close-up shots in a row it's hard to visualize how it's all relating to the overall vehicle.


:usaflag:
 
couple of teases, we are... :wink1:

the last week or so has had me REALLY wishing the truck was back on the road.. been missing it, and am stoked on how it should roll out the door... someone donate/sponsor 5 g's worth of parts, and I'll be driving it at X-mas... :deal: :haha:

I was very pleased with my design change yesterday.. doesn't look like much, but I think it came out way cleaner that way... I'm also thinking of doing a V'ed frame tie-in off that center B-hoop flange... I'll have to wait on that till I finalize the drivetrain/exhaust tho...


I'll do some full shots later today... :D
 
picfest.......



most of the back floor area is done... just need to do the seam back a couple feet, seamseal the underside, prime ( I ran out of epoxy).......




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here you can see the center staked flange...


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and some full shots....


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the rear floor is done enough that I'll move on with the fab work next weekend...

next project - inner rockers, and finish the sliders..

then the front floor, the tunnel, and finally the console......

hopefully next week i'll be putting in a tube order, so I can finish the cage...
 
:haha:

I actually have 2 sets of freebie rollers out back...

it should sit a good 2, 3" lower than that when the running gear goes in..... but I'll definitely miss parking it inside at night...
 
I'm sure you mentioned it, but what is the difference between the green and the tan paint? And do you seam seal everything after you paint? Or does it matter? I notice you've done it both ways.

Looks great, too bad the factory couldn't make them this way. There would be more K5's still on the road.

Bruiser
 
I'm sure you mentioned it, but what is the difference between the green and the tan paint? And do you seam seal everything after you paint? Or does it matter? I notice you've done it both ways.

Looks great, too bad the factory couldn't make them this way. There would be more K5's still on the road.

Bruiser

well, all the raw steel, eventually has the green zinc chromate on it first, then the tan urethane primer on top of that..... in other words, all the tan you see has green under it.. I bring different areas thru various stages of prime, depending on where they are, am I gonna be working in the area again, etc...

zinc chromate is the best etching primer you can run... a 2 part wash is the best, I'm just running the rattlecan stuff, but it's still killer... the tan urethane primer is basically an easy sanding epoxy primer.... it's a high build, filling primer... I run Imron (satin black) or Chromabase (copper) on top of that...

seam sealer.... I usually do it between the zinc and tan primer, but I have done it on top of the tan too.... just a timing, etc thing.. I'm big on seam sealer, keeps water out of joints, etc... I actually seamsealed the non-welded areas of my weld-on steering box brace, to keep water from getting between the plates...

I'm there, "might as well" make it last.. peace of mind and all that.... :D
 
Thanks, that clears it up. I use Zinc chromate on bare metal as a primer. Rattlecan is easiest for me. Paint wise, I just use the rustoleum semi-gloss in the gallon cans. Usually brush/roll it on. I don't have the skills to spray like you do.
 
the tan isn't an epoxy, it's a urethane primer.. basically the same thing, just more user-friendly...

it's Dupont's Nason 2K Urethane primer... VERY economical, about $90 a gallon for the primer and hardener..

I'll dance the jig the day I put orange on the cage, and do the interior satin black.... :deal::haha:
 
It's all about the 5 gallon buckets! :haha:

actually I normally use hardwood blocks whenever possibly for alot of stuff.. being a marine guy, I snag block from work all the time... I've got a bunch sitting outside...

gotta really try and get a few weeknights in this week, get a few hrs ahead for next weekend...
 
so when you moving from NJ

you said you wanted to make it last :D its going to rust away there.

When I lived in AZ I saw a completly stripped down to bare metal car sitting out side no rust. I laughed you do that in NJ its rusting on the side your doing as your doing it.
 
unlike most peoples work, you wont see a spec of rust on this 10 yrs from now... wirewheel the axles and frame, slap some rust bullet on it? that's what'll rust out..

not my sh*t... I thought that was pretty obvious...

thats one of the reasons stuff goes to zinc so quick, get that raw stuff covered..
 
Paul,

Looks good, thanks for posting up the distant shots for a sense of overall perspective.... It's funny to see that we both have an annoying garage support post to work around!! :D


:usaflag:
 

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