American84K5
1/2 ton status
Sir, you are awesome.
CK5
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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...
- Thread starter ryoken
- Start date
Looks good 
. How much did you end up removing? Measuring at the bottom of the fender.
. How much did you end up removing? Measuring at the bottom of the fender.
Looks good
took about 5" out... it's about 12" long stock, it's 7" now...
what I did was take it back to the firewall... on a stock rig you have 2 bolts thru the well to the firewall, it's even with those...
obviously I'm doing this backwards.. i would have liked to have the axles hung, yada, yada.... but it just worked out this way.. i went back as far as I felt reasonable to maintain wheelwells...
I'll be moving the axle up 1.5", and already cut the fang at the tube bumper up front... so I think it'll stuff 38's pretty good...
and muchos graciass boys.. that was a fair amount of work today... i should have the metal work done on that one tomorrow.... need to finish off the front fang too...
oh, and I didn't forget the hammer/dolly post, in the morn probably.... took pics, just need to type something out.....
hammer and dollying in the new bodyline...
let me start this by saying you can't be afraid to manipulate metal when doing stuff like this.... 10 hits with a ballpeen ain't gonna cut it... also there are tons of techniques beyond this, I'm just gonna cover how I went about getting a bodyline, etc...
first thing I did was take a sharpie to the backside of the sheetmetal, and continue the bodyline to the bottom... seen here....
then I took a, I'll call it a "chisel-shaped" body hammer
i put the fender upside down on a moving blanket to absorb the shock
and worked my way down from the existing bodyline at the top, to the bottom with the edge of the hammer.... multiple times... medium to light medium hits right down the sharpie line... quantity is always WAY more important than how hard you hit when it comes to shaping metal..
this actually puts a "dent line" on the front side.... ya do this first, to make sure, that the bodyline is always there, and everything else works off of it...
then the next step was to flatten the upper 3, 4" of the 1" outer lip at the top.. where the old bodyline runs diagonal to the new lip... you can see it still in this photo....
you can do this by holding a piece of heavy flatstock to the backside, or the flat side of a dolly, and hitting the front side with a body hammer... I use a shrinking hammer for this kinda work, because your trying to "tighten up" that outer lip...
shrinking head on a body hammer...
it's exactly what it looks like... the metal "draws" around each of those little raised bumps, essentially... tightening the metal.... heat can be applied to the area to really tighten it up if necessary.... not needed here... but combined with a shrinking hammer, spoon or dolly, can really shrink an area when needed....
so now the panel has a slightly raised bodyline and flat lip, but it needs the sloping radius that leads up to the bodyline from the rest of the fender.... once again, you can see how it "loses" this going down the fender in this shot...
what you do is take a body dolly, along the lines of this one...
one with a curved area, somewhat similar to the curve your trying to make... take the fender and turn it upside down... hold the dolly firmly to the underside, up at the top of that radius... so your working it down, from the existing sloped area..
then you take the body hammer and begin reworking, hitting in the prior made bodyline crease, in the area of the dolly on the backside of the fender... what this does is, as you hit the crease, the firmly held dolly is hitting the other side, forming the radius...
in this case, the radius somewhat needs to taper off at the bottom... so you work it all the way top to bottom, multiple times... working it more at the top and tapering toward the bottom....
once again, this isn't a "hit it 10 x's and you see it" kinda thing.. you have to realize your just lightly stretching the metal, and it WILL form.. how many passes it takes, depends on how much of a radius..
now if the bodyline starts getting too "defined", you can switch to the flat or shrinking side of the hammer and work the lip.....
once you have that radius in, the hard work is done.... you may have a little wavyness to the lip at this point.... easy, you just go back to the flatstock, or flat dolly, hold it behind the lip.. and work the shrinking hammer on the opposite side where the dolly is, like an anvil and work it up and down, till flat...
you can also do that on the bodyline if it got too "pronounced" or has some imperfections in it from the chisel tip... just put one of the more pronounced edges of the dolly, not the gentle curved side, into the corner on the back.. it doesn't have to be the perfect angle, just in the ballpark... then work the front of the bodyline up and down with the bodyt hammer on the peak...
this will take out the imperfections, and make the bodyline less "harsh", if necessary.....
the thing about dolly work is not being impatient... knowing what will eventually happen from working an area.... working with MANY, light to medium hits....
I hope that was a decent explanation....
never had to describe that in written form before! 
anything not clear, questions about techniques or tools, just ask....
let me start this by saying you can't be afraid to manipulate metal when doing stuff like this.... 10 hits with a ballpeen ain't gonna cut it... also there are tons of techniques beyond this, I'm just gonna cover how I went about getting a bodyline, etc...
first thing I did was take a sharpie to the backside of the sheetmetal, and continue the bodyline to the bottom... seen here....
then I took a, I'll call it a "chisel-shaped" body hammer
i put the fender upside down on a moving blanket to absorb the shock
and worked my way down from the existing bodyline at the top, to the bottom with the edge of the hammer.... multiple times... medium to light medium hits right down the sharpie line... quantity is always WAY more important than how hard you hit when it comes to shaping metal..
this actually puts a "dent line" on the front side.... ya do this first, to make sure, that the bodyline is always there, and everything else works off of it...
then the next step was to flatten the upper 3, 4" of the 1" outer lip at the top.. where the old bodyline runs diagonal to the new lip... you can see it still in this photo....
you can do this by holding a piece of heavy flatstock to the backside, or the flat side of a dolly, and hitting the front side with a body hammer... I use a shrinking hammer for this kinda work, because your trying to "tighten up" that outer lip...
shrinking head on a body hammer...
it's exactly what it looks like... the metal "draws" around each of those little raised bumps, essentially... tightening the metal.... heat can be applied to the area to really tighten it up if necessary.... not needed here... but combined with a shrinking hammer, spoon or dolly, can really shrink an area when needed....
so now the panel has a slightly raised bodyline and flat lip, but it needs the sloping radius that leads up to the bodyline from the rest of the fender.... once again, you can see how it "loses" this going down the fender in this shot...
what you do is take a body dolly, along the lines of this one...
one with a curved area, somewhat similar to the curve your trying to make... take the fender and turn it upside down... hold the dolly firmly to the underside, up at the top of that radius... so your working it down, from the existing sloped area..
then you take the body hammer and begin reworking, hitting in the prior made bodyline crease, in the area of the dolly on the backside of the fender... what this does is, as you hit the crease, the firmly held dolly is hitting the other side, forming the radius...
in this case, the radius somewhat needs to taper off at the bottom... so you work it all the way top to bottom, multiple times... working it more at the top and tapering toward the bottom....
once again, this isn't a "hit it 10 x's and you see it" kinda thing.. you have to realize your just lightly stretching the metal, and it WILL form.. how many passes it takes, depends on how much of a radius..
now if the bodyline starts getting too "defined", you can switch to the flat or shrinking side of the hammer and work the lip.....
once you have that radius in, the hard work is done.... you may have a little wavyness to the lip at this point.... easy, you just go back to the flatstock, or flat dolly, hold it behind the lip.. and work the shrinking hammer on the opposite side where the dolly is, like an anvil and work it up and down, till flat...
you can also do that on the bodyline if it got too "pronounced" or has some imperfections in it from the chisel tip... just put one of the more pronounced edges of the dolly, not the gentle curved side, into the corner on the back.. it doesn't have to be the perfect angle, just in the ballpark... then work the front of the bodyline up and down with the bodyt hammer on the peak...
this will take out the imperfections, and make the bodyline less "harsh", if necessary.....
the thing about dolly work is not being impatient... knowing what will eventually happen from working an area.... working with MANY, light to medium hits....
I hope that was a decent explanation....
never had to describe that in written form before! anything not clear, questions about techniques or tools, just ask....
Last edited:
PAUL = "THE MAN"
I might need to get a spare fender and practice. My fenders look just like yours after the cut but before the dolly work. I sure like your your dollied fenders a lot better. 
That is F'n awesome!
thanks NJ Department of Public Works!!!!
freakin Joysey rust......
right where they usually go, at that triangle support piece they put in em... at some point, I'll pick up a new pair...
anyway, here you can see the old position of a stock wheelwell....
and it secured to the lip... I upped those 2 lower mounts to 3/8's, welded nuts on the inside...
oh, and here's the fastening for the fender inside the slider.....
freakin Joysey rust......
right where they usually go, at that triangle support piece they put in em... at some point, I'll pick up a new pair...anyway, here you can see the old position of a stock wheelwell....
and it secured to the lip... I upped those 2 lower mounts to 3/8's, welded nuts on the inside...
oh, and here's the fastening for the fender inside the slider.....
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
To describe you in one word, Paul, you sir are badass.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
Id have to see if I through them away or not but had a pile of inner fenders in good to great shape. Some were 67-72, some 70's and a some 80's.
I wouldn't mind shipping you a set if you want em for free. Just cover the ride.
Dolly work looks nice and I like the fender mount to the rocker.
I wouldn't mind shipping you a set if you want em for free. Just cover the ride.
Dolly work looks nice and I like the fender mount to the rocker.
mr250twostroke
1/2 ton status
Awesome work!
I have a pair of mint inners from my 91 you can have for the ride... its a long ride though but not an ounce of rust. I don't miss that east coast stuff..
I have a pair of mint inners from my 91 you can have for the ride... its a long ride though but not an ounce of rust. I don't miss that east coast stuff..
hey, thanks guys!
I'd definitely do $75 to 100 for a clean pair of GM inners shipped... just get back to me a PM or something if either of ya wanna go thru the trouble to get a quote, etc.. it'd be a biz at 08741 .......
one thing for sure, I'm married to these fockers now!
What I'm really happy about is the decision to do the 12 gauge... it's pretty freakin stout down there now.. and tho it was difficult, I LOVE how the mounting came out... once bolted up, it's like an extension of the slider...
here's that section done... little mud on that inner seam, then primer... I'm working on the front fang now..... doing them a little different too....
I'd definitely do $75 to 100 for a clean pair of GM inners shipped... just get back to me a PM or something if either of ya wanna go thru the trouble to get a quote, etc.. it'd be a biz at 08741 .......
one thing for sure, I'm married to these fockers now!
What I'm really happy about is the decision to do the 12 gauge... it's pretty freakin stout down there now..
and tho it was difficult, I LOVE how the mounting came out... once bolted up, it's like an extension of the slider... here's that section done... little mud on that inner seam, then primer... I'm working on the front fang now..... doing them a little different too....
lak2004
1/2 ton status
That is awesome! I love this thread! It gives me so many ideas and I have also learned a ton from you Paul! Cant wait until I can vote your rig for CK5 of the month!
I'm usually good for something...... ummm.... unique!
I'm gonna try to finish my front bumper tomorrow......
I'm gonna try to finish my front bumper tomorrow......
apparently Joysey's gonna be closed the next 3 days for inclement weather..... 
You'd think people where never gonna see the light of day again......
anyway, I'm bored, so I might as well slut out how today finished up... ton o' shots...
came out pretty sweet imo...
tomorrow I'd like to get that slider capped, the fang metal work done, the front bumper end capped and outer 1.5" tube done... trying to get that side "done"......
You'd think people where never gonna see the light of day again......
anyway, I'm bored, so I might as well slut out how today finished up... ton o' shots...
came out pretty sweet imo...
tomorrow I'd like to get that slider capped, the fang metal work done, the front bumper end capped and outer 1.5" tube done... trying to get that side "done"......
here's what an insomniac does at 2 am during a blizzard......
phreddei166
1/2 ton status
When I hit the lottery your building my next truck ! Wicked pissa work !
here's the other folder....
Yeah how you liking that two of snow
