it's mostly mud, swampy-type stuff down this way, but some trailriding... at some point I'll start venturing north and northwest to give it a taste of boulder...
CK5
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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...
- Thread starter ryoken
- Start date
it's mostly mud, swampy-type stuff down this way, but some trailriding... at some point I'll start venturing north and northwest to give it a taste of boulder...
You better put it on a trailer and come out for BB
I'm a 465 guy myself also but that'd really mess up his center console idea
yeah, I made that decision awhile back... that I would make the 700 work.. to be stubborn... I have a complete non hydro 465 setup sitting in the garage, I didn't wanna run it.. for as old school as I am, and have LOVED my manual vehicles in the past, I decided to keep it auto..
I woulda went 4500 over the 465.. if I was gonna do a manual...
I need the OD capabilty of the 700...
huh.... funny you say that.... I can HAVE an 18' or so twin axle trailer from work for free... my boys inherited it when they bought the yard last year...
it would definitely need some work... some reconfiguring of fenders, sandblast (a fair to good amount of rust), some metalwork, etc.... but for free, throw $1000 into it for tires, steel, paint, etc, some labor, it'd be worth it...
it made me realize how far away the thought of a towrig for me is... haven't even contemplated it... mainly because I don't want the K5 to be a trail only rig... I want to be able to drive it on the streets without grief.. which isn't easy in Joysey... 38" tire MAX, etc....
Yeah know about that Jersey rule stuff
Not sure I would want drive any thing truck wise all that way but the guys from WV did it last year.
There are a few of us out here looking into 2 ton vehicles as tow rigs so we can tow our RV too. Get a old Penske truck take off the box build a flat bed put a goosneck hitch on the back, wala, ultimate tow rig.
Tring to find a cheap four door is the problem.
Not sure I would want drive any thing truck wise all that way but the guys from WV did it last year.
There are a few of us out here looking into 2 ton vehicles as tow rigs so we can tow our RV too. Get a old Penske truck take off the box build a flat bed put a goosneck hitch on the back, wala, ultimate tow rig.
Tring to find a cheap four door is the problem.
forgot to mention earlier.... once I started trying to figure out the details on the back bumper/tire carrier the other day, I decided that I'm just gonna make the bumper to fit my 9000xd that I run in the front...
then I'll just run it empty till I can come up with another.. run the same front and rear.. I took a look at the R12000 I have, and that style just doesn't dictate hidden... hangs way too low, so I'll rebuild it at some point and sell it..
even with that revelation to keep the bumper "tight", and knowing pretty much exactly how I wanted to run the main tubes, i was still somewhat scratching my head tonight mocking up a spare and figuring out pivot points, etc...
never dawned on me how big a 38 is till ya fit it up to a tailgate! the idea i had in my head looks like it'll work, just have to iron some details out as I build it...
it's a little down the priority list, and I need another stick, but I'll probably sneak this fab in over the next couple months...
then I'll just run it empty till I can come up with another.. run the same front and rear.. I took a look at the R12000 I have, and that style just doesn't dictate hidden... hangs way too low, so I'll rebuild it at some point and sell it..
even with that revelation to keep the bumper "tight", and knowing pretty much exactly how I wanted to run the main tubes, i was still somewhat scratching my head tonight mocking up a spare and figuring out pivot points, etc...
never dawned on me how big a 38 is till ya fit it up to a tailgate!
the idea i had in my head looks like it'll work, just have to iron some details out as I build it...it's a little down the priority list, and I need another stick, but I'll probably sneak this fab in over the next couple months...
wayne
3/4 ton status
Looks good. On boxing the frame, I would if you plan to see rocks. Mine has seen a few and is bent up in between the t case mount and the rear spring hangers. Also tie in the cage to the front end if you haven't already.
There are a few of us out here looking into 2 ton vehicles as tow rigs so we can tow our RV too. Get a old Penske truck take off the box build a flat bed put a goosneck hitch on the back, wala, ultimate tow rig.
*cough* duece *cough* *cough*
Lots of people have made crewcab dueces.
Of course some upgrades are in order if you plan on speeds over 55.
boy, now I feel inadequate....
boxing... ain't gonna happen... if it gets to that point of damage, I'll find a donor frame, do that one, bare, then swap it in....
I'm trying to draw SOME lines in the build...
besides, I've got enough work on my hands as it is, and it's already in primer... 
now, tieing the front in... another one I haven't talked about.. as of now, once I test articulation, I'll finalize my shock towers/tie bar... basically I'm doing hoops off the frame (bolted, not welded) up to a bolt-in tie bar that goes over the motor to the other side... there are few twists to that whole mod I'm gonna leave undiscussed for now...
what I really would like to do is have 2 tube systems for the front.. the shock tower setup.. then I'm contemplating just running 2 tubes from the firewall to rad support... that is up in the air for now... the points to that are this...
1 - I'm 95% sure these will NOT be tied into the cab cage... it would be a bolted staked flange setup at the firewall... there's is really no decent spot to hit an incab tube.. tabbed and bolted to the rad support... I'm very limited on possible runs for these tubes, I'll know better once I fab the shock towers..
2 - somebody please school me in this if i'm wrong please.
if you take a cab cage, hard mounted to the cab, which is attached to the frame by urethane body mounts, and now tie-ns with urethane bushings, wouldn't it be a bad idea to attach the cage to the frame up front? wouldn't there be a potential issue, I'm thinking cracking with this?
You could do urethane at the firewall too, but that doesn't solve the "where would they fit" question.
well, you bring up the next point... it wasn't so much a urethane mount up front, but this... say you come out of the cab cage, thru the upper firewall, over each frame rail, run straight over the exhaust, and hard mount to the rad support... thats fine, to me... your keeping the sheetmetal tied to the cage and have the rad support bushings... cool.. thats really what i'll be doing...
my question over all this was, originally when i started thinking of the shock mounting, i thought, boy that be trick to have cage tubes come thru the outer, upper firewall corners, past the bat box, then angle in and run to the rad support... perfect place to mount shocks.. pretty sure i've seen that setup.. BUT isn't that wrong? to the frame as opposed to the rad, for the previous reasons mentioned... but even just as an upper shock mount? your now mounting the shock to the sheetmetal effectively, not the frame... whats the point of having bushings then?
I've gotta be wrong in this.. i'm just not getting that.. seems like a cracking issue...
my question over all this was, originally when i started thinking of the shock mounting, i thought, boy that be trick to have cage tubes come thru the outer, upper firewall corners, past the bat box, then angle in and run to the rad support... perfect place to mount shocks.. pretty sure i've seen that setup.. BUT isn't that wrong? to the frame as opposed to the rad, for the previous reasons mentioned... but even just as an upper shock mount? your now mounting the shock to the sheetmetal effectively, not the frame... whats the point of having bushings then?
I've gotta be wrong in this.. i'm just not getting that.. seems like a cracking issue...
I'd do urethane at the firewall and at the rad support and run tube down to the frame on each side of the shock mount. That way it is a frame mounted shock hoop that also ties into the body. I agree, the shock needs to mount to the frame, not the body. I would guess most people underestimate the amount of force transmitted by a shock absorber.
hmm, ok, you gave me a couple things to think about... i think i have an idea...
boy, does that line get me in trouble...
boy, does that line get me in trouble...
Ryoken's Cage Stats....
approximately 215' of tube.........
15' of 1.5" x .120 wall
10' of 1.75" x .120 wall
190'ish of 2" x .120 wall
about 450 lbs......
39 pieces
26 bends
67 notches
approximate cost..............
$1200 and 2 lbs of flesh...
approximately 215' of tube.........
15' of 1.5" x .120 wall
10' of 1.75" x .120 wall
190'ish of 2" x .120 wall
about 450 lbs......
39 pieces
26 bends
67 notches
approximate cost..............
$1200 and 2 lbs of flesh...
approximate cost..............
$1200 and 2 lbs of flesh...
Wow DOM really is expensive - they take body parts as payment?
Wow DOM really is expensive - they take body parts as payment?
oh, you can add 2 gallons of sweat too, for bending all that damn 2"
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
only 2 pounds of flesh.not too bad.haha.i can believe the sweat.pulling on the bender and welding creates a lot of sweat.so you are trying to get out this way next summeri see.i guess i better get my truck road worthy by then.even if its not i can get tags for it and drive it for 10 days til it needs inspection.haha.get at least one run out of it.how much for a simple roll bar?i dont think it would need too much tube for that.i need to put one back in my truck.b pillar to the rear wheel wells.
heck, you could do a 3 tube, oldschool, b-hoop with 2 angled down to the wells.. super simple and 25' of tube or less...
no love for the truck this weekend, family stuff...
no love for the truck this weekend, family stuff...
oh, and a correction...... actually the cage is about 200'... the 2" is only about 175'... I accidentally added in the front bumper footage...
NEK5
3/4 ton status
The cage is coming out awesome, paul!
