btw, anybody buy a windshield lately? need to source a quality one... should i just call safelite or one of those guys? have em drop one off or something... i'll do the install if it saves some....
CK5
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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...
- Thread starter ryoken
- Start date
I have a buddy who does windshields his favorite are PPG. He says they are all pretty much the same but the PPGs seem to have less issues with having small cracks out towards the edges. Doesn't usually affect anything as it is usually below where the urethane goes
I think anything by PPG is good!
sounds logical.. i'll try to find someone who deals in them... thanks...
stunter2boy79
Registered Member
wow the paint looks great
love how its coming together! Great to see big steps.
Muddytazz
1 ton status
You might want to also check into a different mount for the hi-lift. I've heard that that single tube mount on each end like you posted has a tendency to move over time no matter how tight you get the clamp.
well, i hope i can come up with something clamped.. kinda banking on it.. didn't wanna deal with adding attachment points when building the cage...
oh, and here it is with the wrinkly isenglass...
I'll need to rework the back isenglass at some point.. first STC doesn't make it removable, only roll up.. and second, it'll need to be modded for the spare tire supports anyway...
I'll need to rework the back isenglass at some point.. first STC doesn't make it removable, only roll up.. and second, it'll need to be modded for the spare tire supports anyway...
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Let me know when your putting in the part where you turn wrenches. I'm good at that and would love to come help.
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
A simple solution to a rotating mount (No matter how tight or loose) would be to "pin it".
You could simply tack a small bead on the bar, and countersink the point (on center) in the mount.
Or, an allen set screw in the bar, same counter sink in the clamp. Concealed, clean appearance and no rotation. Just a nub would do.
To further clarify - It'd be like mounting the clamp and putting a small bolt or steel rivet through one side. That would be suicidal in this particular case....
Just a thought.....
Soft Topper Corporation (I think ?)
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
You could simply tack a small bead on the bar, and countersink the point (on center) in the mount.
Or, an allen set screw in the bar, same counter sink in the clamp. Concealed, clean appearance and no rotation. Just a nub would do.
To further clarify - It'd be like mounting the clamp and putting a small bolt or steel rivet through one side. That would be suicidal in this particular case....
Just a thought.....
Soft Topper Corporation (I think ?)
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Lookin great dude! I love logging in and checking progress! Really dig the Copper!
i don't think they are in biz anymore.. i know they dont make this anymore... it's the fasttrac...
there is a ton i like about it, but it's not perfect... there are a couple features i'd like better, or changed...
one, that back section over the window, ALWAYS has that funky wrinkle.. even after being in the sun for awhile.. two, i'm not crazy about the way the top has a flap that hides the window zipper.. it's just a little tough to get it to lay flat..
also, the main issue has been the back window.. one, it's always been long, to where it doesn't clip in on the tailgate.. no big, ya just make it shorter when i have my boat guys make a new back isenglass.... AND it wont actually zip out.. the 2 zippers "meet" on the zipper somewhere.. it never comes off.. that can be fixed to..
tho somewhat of a pain here and there, i REALLY like the side and front track system..
i have a couple very talented marine canvas guys to choose from.. i'll have them look at it.. i'll actually have em make a whole new canvas piece if i think they can do a sweet job.. get rid of that back wrinkle above the window...
all the materials for the fasttrac are super high quality tho...
there is a ton i like about it, but it's not perfect... there are a couple features i'd like better, or changed...
one, that back section over the window, ALWAYS has that funky wrinkle.. even after being in the sun for awhile.. two, i'm not crazy about the way the top has a flap that hides the window zipper.. it's just a little tough to get it to lay flat..
also, the main issue has been the back window.. one, it's always been long, to where it doesn't clip in on the tailgate.. no big, ya just make it shorter when i have my boat guys make a new back isenglass.... AND it wont actually zip out.. the 2 zippers "meet" on the zipper somewhere.. it never comes off.. that can be fixed to..
tho somewhat of a pain here and there, i REALLY like the side and front track system..
i have a couple very talented marine canvas guys to choose from.. i'll have them look at it.. i'll actually have em make a whole new canvas piece if i think they can do a sweet job.. get rid of that back wrinkle above the window...
all the materials for the fasttrac are super high quality tho...
I dont remember and dug back through a few pages. Did you use bend tech? I'm looking for some A-pillar dimensions for a through the dash under the half cab. Really like how yours are nice and tight with the body!
thanks.. like pinning a cutlass bearing on a boat... i'm sure i'll be able to come
up with something...
if anyone knows of a more economical, nice clamp-on setup, i'm all ears... that just happened to be a link i had.. and they look like quality pieces.. should be for that kinda coin...
think the beginning tube stuff on the bumper was back on like page 20ish... 
anyway, no, no software for me.. all oldschool methods... angle finders, tape measure, etc... it's probably why it took me about 8 hrs each on the a-pillars..
but i honestly don't think those particular a's could be done in software very easily, and achieve those results... this just came up in another thread... my a-posts actually have 3 bends per side, not the 2 you would assume...
i have a certain method making tube... get an overall length, leave the tube a little long, bend from the middle out.. i can always bend more, not straighten, etc, etc....
Ok yeah I think you may have commented in my build where I was talking about it. I guess I'll just tear my dash off and break out the tape measure! Once I get the A-pillars done I can move backward pretty quickly I imagine.
i did those first.. then the windshield bar, then b-hoop.. filled in from there...... i really wanted the a-pillar ones to go to the b-hoop.. as opposed to just up the a-pillar and welded to a halo... just a design thing i wanted to try... i love how the bar runs over the door line and the grab handles just add to it...
just take your time, measure 9 times, bend 5 times if necessary, and pray a little.......
just take your time, measure 9 times, bend 5 times if necessary, and pray a little.......
lectric80
3/4 ton status
I bought mine from saflite last year, and haven't had any issues with it. I did buy new weatherstrip from Classic Parts and when the installer was there with the 'new' weatherstrip that they sent out, he was impressed with the quality of the Classic Parts stuff. No issues with cracks at the edges that I have ever seen, and I did call nationwide as well to use them against each other for a better price.
