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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

here is a little more detail on the radius tooth setup...

what my ps pulley will look like...


1d63ad78.jpg







and here it is with a 30mm on it....



9692e2de.jpg






I'm gonna have 3 belts....

#1 30mm, crank to ps to wp...

#2 30mm crank to system alt to wp

#3 6 groove serp crank to welder to clutched york...


that way I keep the welder and OBA on their own belt.. the aux belt if you will.. this also allows me to run the smallest welder pulley for max amps at low rpm's...

i'm also hoping to make the lengths of #1 & #2 the same.. that way a spare can handle either.. and the wp has redundancy with either belt...

basically my crank will have 2 of these on in a row, then a serp pulley at the end...


3771d113.jpg
 
:haha:


and sorry guys.. I'm pretty set on running my own custom belt system.... I just can't envision getting any of the factory belt systems to work the way I want with the OBA and welder... keep in mind, I plan on 2 alts.. which I'm sure plenty in here are thinking "that's stupid and excessive"...

2 alternators is fine, are you running AC? What about an AIR pump? Because you could replace the AC compressor with a york, and replace the AIR pump with 2nd alternator, and run a pretty standard SB
serpentine system.

But I think you are probably set on the cog setup, and it's your rig, so have it it, I am sure it will be cool either way!
 
actually that probably would work.. yup, no ac or a.i.r.. but it will be dual cs144's for the alts... but yeah, I'm pretty set on my idea... if I can do it like the above plan, I'll be real stoked..

one thing I don't like about factory GM serp stuff is having an idler/and or a tensioner pulley... I find them to be VERY prone to bearing failure...

wish i could figure out a way to clutch the welder.... but even if you could get an electric clutch like the york has to work, the pulley diameter is way too big... i know they have mechanically clutched alt pulleys on the later GM stuff, but I don't think they would work the way I want for the welder... which basically would be to have that serp be freespooling the 2 accesories it drives until needed....

thanks for all the input guys... you've opened up the potential for me to go with the black braid hose, and I appreciate that, even if I don't take that route...



oh, and I'm committed to putting a couple dungeon hrs a night in, even if I have to crawl around.... ;)
 
why not put the clutch on the crank pulley? that way the aux belt is only driven when you want it to.
 
great idea.. see, one of those "staring ya in the face solutions!" thanks...

whether it's doable, I don't know.. would probably require a machined adapter on the crank hub.. they do have various style drive hubs for the crank.. obviously none would be a "bolt up" for the york... for those who don't know, the york basically has a 4 holed plate that mounts it.. i'll put up a pic later..

but one of those hub styles may lend itself to a fabbed mount being put on it... i'll relook at it tonight and ask em when i call to order... that'd be sweet... a "tool" switch in the cab to engage it, as opposed to just OBA...
 
here's a york clutched pulley....



mei5030.JPG






hmmmm, actually.. that may harder than I thought.... :thinking: not only would it have to mount to the drive hub, but you would have to have a fixed mount off the block for the stationary plate...

in my head, it's almost like it would be easier to mount the pully backwards... pulley toward the motor, plate out toward the rad.. with a mount plate off the block.. maybe off the lower wp bolts or something.. I'll have to break the clutch out tonight and do a visual, drink 4 Molson Ice, mock up later... :woot:

the other issue is mounting the pulley to the drive hub, as most of the drive stuff is 1 1/8" dia... pretty certain the york is only like 3/4"... now.. if i had my lathe working... :whistle:

guess i'll peak around tonight and see what other kinda electric clutched pulleys are available too...
 
hmmm, wonder if I could put a serp pulley on this little electric clutch and run it on the welder...



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focker's like $250.... right size pulley tho... hmmm, wonder if McMaster lists anything.... edit.. nope..
 
gotta love tool bling....



c3030771.jpg





I should be putting the 60 together in a couple weeks... itching to get it hung under the truck so I can get going on the shock towers.......
 
sorry :o, carrier bearing puller...

side 60 note... I've decided to hold off on the bronze kingpin bushings till I go with a springless arm at some point down the road...
 
been buying a ton of tools lately..

the tool bag thread got me going.. bought 6 new bags.. been hawking ebay lately.. bought a Snappy 1/4 drive swivel socket set for $48 (been wanting those forever, my 3/8 get used often), 1/2 deep metric impacts for $51.. also picked up a spare 19.2 Mac right angle drill... considering I live by mine, beat the snot out of it daily, thought it might be best to jump on a lightly used one for $35...

but next check it's back to rig toys...
 
Not to go backwards or anything but u said that u want to use the steelbraid and ano-tuff fittings, will the ano-tuff hold up to the pressure on ps system or will u have to use specific fittings? Sorry if I may have asked this several months ago about the steelbraid but not to sure bout the fittings.
 
all the anotuff/steelbraided is on the return side, so it will see minimal pressure, 40, 50lbs tops...

the pressure side will more than likely be 2250 psi Parker hose and JIC fittings.. I've never seen psi ratings for the anotuff and other fittings... the limiting factor for fittings is usually the seal type, AN vs JIC... JIC being the higher rated..

but like i said earlier, the perform o flex hose is rated at 1500 psi, and the hose would be the limiting factor, not the fittings.. I bet regular steelbraided and anotuffs could handle ALL power steering duties, as that system usually peaks around 1000 psi, usually in the 500 psi range...

and yes, you did ask.... ;)
 
so... I just ordered all the stuff for my airpan, carbon fiber lid, airpan gasket, etc.... I'm at that point where I need to get the glasswork done to the hood so I can get the rest of the rig painted..


anyway... I was gonna run the 6" x 14" K&N element

knn-e-3770_w.jpg





but to save a few bucks, I went with Summit's version instead


sum-239145.jpg




it's 1/2 the cost and dimensionally the same for mock-up.. I figure if it's cr*p I can swap in a K&N down the road... anyone have experience with the Summit washables? hopefully it's one of their better branded parts...
 
btw..... :whistle:

I'll soon be bringing a whole new meaning to the term salad bowl... ;) :popcorn: :whistle:

pun definitely intended... :woot:
 
I'm using a salad bowl for the mold of my new one... :whistle: it's one of those wood salad tossing ones... :haha:

i was gonna use the metal cfm tech one, but it's a little small... so I'm making a custom one for under the airpan.... actually it'll all be one piece.. should work out much better than 2 pieces, metal and glass on top.....

I'll have to take pics of that one! :haha:

I gotta say I'm pretty revved on this idea.. if I can pull it off like the brain pic, it should be pretty sick...
 

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