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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...
- Thread starter ryoken
- Start date
me? no military here....
newbie79
1/2 ton status
Whoooops must a confused u with someone else
I've been told I woulda made a good NCO... but no, I'm a former vert skating marine mechanic... 
just hashing it all out in my brain... 
ummmm, and here I guess... 
ds of dash..... 5.5" x 1"
ps side.... 7.5" x 1"
and obviously, keep in mind, some switches are 3 position, and not all functions are 100% labeled yet..
some may change slightly as I work thru this.. auto /manual /off for the fans as an example.. wiper speeds, I may add to the hand throttle portion too.. especially being that side is a bit more spaced out..
3 in the glovebox to do.. but they should be pretty straight forward.. I actually like that arial bold font, but I suppose I should at least rummage thru some other fonts/sizing... please ANY, and all font suggestions welcome..
I have such a tough time with that...
ummmm, and here I guess... ds of dash..... 5.5" x 1"
ps side.... 7.5" x 1"
and obviously, keep in mind, some switches are 3 position, and not all functions are 100% labeled yet..
some may change slightly as I work thru this.. auto /manual /off for the fans as an example.. wiper speeds, I may add to the hand throttle portion too.. especially being that side is a bit more spaced out..
3 in the glovebox to do.. but they should be pretty straight forward.. I actually like that arial bold font, but I suppose I should at least rummage thru some other fonts/sizing... please ANY, and all font suggestions welcome..
I have such a tough time with that...
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oh, and I'm already running into a logistical issue designing a flushmount set up for these in all these panels..
it wasn't so much of an issue with the dash "built not bought" one.... actually I could have had that pretty flush, but I opted for the easier frame construction which added to the thickness.. but it still looks fine..
now, this on the other hand, I'm adament about these being pretty dang flush... just too small of a view area, etc for it to be recessed a 1/4"..
it's somewhat challenging being ALL the mounting surfaces are the composite.. which tends to get it's strength thru it's bulk/thickness... all of these panels are in the 3/16 to 1/4 range... but the leds in the side of the pexi need to be hidden.. so you need a thin area right at the opening for it all to sit in... thus, if all this stuff was sheetmetal, these plexi pieces would be easier to mount..
soooooooooooo.. the intention at this point is to get the router attachment for the dremel to set a controlled height, get a good bottoming bit for it and see how well I can router it..
usually such endeavors are challenging with the composite.. it generally only digs diamond tipped stuff, and tends to burn up carbide saw blades, and router bits when ya try to round edges over, etc.. you can make a 8' cut down a sheet of say, 1/4" thick.. by the time your done, a carbide saw blade is toast.. diamonds last a way, way long time tho.. and are damn cheap nowadays too..
thankfully its not a lot of material, so I have a chance.. either way, i'll figure something out..
it wasn't so much of an issue with the dash "built not bought" one.... actually I could have had that pretty flush, but I opted for the easier frame construction which added to the thickness.. but it still looks fine..
now, this on the other hand, I'm adament about these being pretty dang flush... just too small of a view area, etc for it to be recessed a 1/4"..
it's somewhat challenging being ALL the mounting surfaces are the composite.. which tends to get it's strength thru it's bulk/thickness... all of these panels are in the 3/16 to 1/4 range... but the leds in the side of the pexi need to be hidden.. so you need a thin area right at the opening for it all to sit in... thus, if all this stuff was sheetmetal, these plexi pieces would be easier to mount..
soooooooooooo.. the intention at this point is to get the router attachment for the dremel to set a controlled height, get a good bottoming bit for it and see how well I can router it..
usually such endeavors are challenging with the composite.. it generally only digs diamond tipped stuff, and tends to burn up carbide saw blades, and router bits when ya try to round edges over, etc.. you can make a 8' cut down a sheet of say, 1/4" thick.. by the time your done, a carbide saw blade is toast.. diamonds last a way, way long time tho.. and are damn cheap nowadays too..
thankfully its not a lot of material, so I have a chance.. either way, i'll figure something out..
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I get them from waytekwire.com http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1407/Carling-Rocker-Switches/&pageSize=
that's who I was using too.. still need more actual switches for the final set up... but I have plenty of covers, they're cheap...
how I'm spending the day... x-member beef..
waiting on the hinge next..
I'm a little torn on the latch... I can go with a latch like my center console has that is keyed and similar to a stock look/design, or I can go with the super cool looking 1/4 turn fockers that have no lock...
but that has to wait for the hinge mounting anyway...
oh... and my evening project these days... whilst I sits round the ole tv...
waiting on the hinge next..
I'm a little torn on the latch... I can go with a latch like my center console has that is keyed and similar to a stock look/design, or I can go with the super cool looking 1/4 turn fockers that have no lock...
but that has to wait for the hinge mounting anyway...
oh... and my evening project these days... whilst I sits round the ole tv...
yup, bought the wrong plexi.... 1/4"s ok, but 3/8 would be better..
the glove isn't quite a rectangle and the opening really lends itself to a bit of a bevel and shaping down the sides... also give it that much more of a solid feel..
here's a tint test to see how bright the led's are in relation to the 1/4 thickness.. no issue, can easily go thicker/darker and get a hint of those...
there goes a $10 bill..
oh well, just glad I realized it now before I spent a bunch of time fitting/shaping it... also forgot I needed to order weathstripping for proper door fitment anyway..
once again, a "oh, just slap a door on there" project, turns into a 28 part symposiam of smaller projects and fab, dry times and parts/material clusterf*cks... 
so.. I give it a month till it's all done...
eh, I want this right.. the fit and finish on this is important to me... "click"
the glove isn't quite a rectangle and the opening really lends itself to a bit of a bevel and shaping down the sides... also give it that much more of a solid feel..
here's a tint test to see how bright the led's are in relation to the 1/4 thickness.. no issue, can easily go thicker/darker and get a hint of those...
there goes a $10 bill..
oh well, just glad I realized it now before I spent a bunch of time fitting/shaping it... also forgot I needed to order weathstripping for proper door fitment anyway..
once again, a "oh, just slap a door on there" project, turns into a 28 part symposiam of smaller projects and fab, dry times and parts/material clusterf*cks...
so.. I give it a month till it's all done...
eh, I want this right.. the fit and finish on this is important to me... "click"
I like it! Not to criticize but the proportions almost make the bowtie look goofy with it nstretched to fit the panel? Maybe its just the pic angle too, still a sweet light up panel! 
Maybe I missed it but you going to make them eaisly changeable so you can swap them back and forth?
Maybe I missed it but you going to make them eaisly changeable so you can swap them back and forth?
thanks.... just farting around till the weather breaks and I get going on Mutt's tubebed..
and yeah, it's a bit challenging working with a 3" x 30" canvas... the stretch was intentional... the pic is kinda cr@ppy/glarish, looks better in person.. it was just kind of a quick attempt at something with the first panel that I was scrapping... that was kind of a test to see how the narrower lines work.. dainty seems to be a better approach, being that its in someone's face...
the next step for this one will be painted all black as a "backer" one in the rack.. I have 4 to work with for now...
and yeah, it's set up for easy interchange... who know's, 10 yr's from now I could have a couple dozen versions!
it's basically a rack system where a frame slides in and out on another as it clamps down.. so I can run from 1 to 4 panels... I will have to undo 6 screws and 3 nuts to change t out.. like a 1/2 hr prolly.. most times it will have 4 layers... clear front panel so it shows as shiney black when unlit, than 2 color panels, and the black backer one...
the next one will be similar, but in a 2 color bowtie.. I also have a 2 color GMC one that I drew up that I think could be cool..
it'd be neat to have something really neat engraved by a machine or artist or something...
and yeah, it's a bit challenging working with a 3" x 30" canvas... the stretch was intentional... the pic is kinda cr@ppy/glarish, looks better in person.. it was just kind of a quick attempt at something with the first panel that I was scrapping... that was kind of a test to see how the narrower lines work.. dainty seems to be a better approach, being that its in someone's face...
the next step for this one will be painted all black as a "backer" one in the rack.. I have 4 to work with for now...
and yeah, it's set up for easy interchange... who know's, 10 yr's from now I could have a couple dozen versions!
it's basically a rack system where a frame slides in and out on another as it clamps down.. so I can run from 1 to 4 panels... I will have to undo 6 screws and 3 nuts to change t out.. like a 1/2 hr prolly.. most times it will have 4 layers... clear front panel so it shows as shiney black when unlit, than 2 color panels, and the black backer one...
the next one will be similar, but in a 2 color bowtie.. I also have a 2 color GMC one that I drew up that I think could be cool..
it'd be neat to have something really neat engraved by a machine or artist or something...
Ha ha good call I didn't even think about it potentially blinding the passenger, you going to have it dimmable or just full brightness? It would be sweet if it dimmed with the dash lights, I know I'm anal about making all my aftearket stuff dim with stock
there's a good chance it'll be on a controller with the other LED's at some point, but to start it probably wont be..
my dash lights don't dim anymore tho.. no factory style switch, and it's all just autometers, so..
that's one issue.. to go with full LED's in the AM's, it's like $150..
and I could only run green, or amber, in the gauges (they're white now) so I'd have to choose one....
my dash lights don't dim anymore tho.. no factory style switch, and it's all just autometers, so..
that's one issue.. to go with full LED's in the AM's, it's like $150..
and I could only run green, or amber, in the gauges (they're white now) so I'd have to choose one....
that's one issue.. to go with full LED's in the AM's, it's like $150..
Ah nevermind, didn't know the auto meters were that pricey to change over! Carry on
I definitely wouldn't mind putting ambers in the gauges.. that's the plan eventually.. but at like $13 a bulb, I have to bump that one down to 124th on the priority list..
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Dude! Check out http://www.superbrightleds.com for conversion bulbs.
I'm not sure which ones x over to my AM's..
I certainly buy enough from them already...
I certainly buy enough from them already...
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Sometimes we wear blinders for a specific project and forget a vendor does more than we thought.
If I were doing one, since I like stock, I would pay homage to the old Cheyenne emblem on the dash and maybe do the filigree and light it with amber...I think the filigree work would look good the length of that, but that would be for me
