What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

Overview Gallery Discussion
thanks :D


it would have been so easy to just rip it out and put a tube alum dash in... a great look in it's own right.. :thumb:

I was seeing this as a neat, hybrid kinda look..... with certain factory lines interjected with some off the wall fab..... desert racer meets F-22, crashes into square body ... :popcorn:


and I was gonna make it..... sanity, wallet and hr's of labor be damned! :woot: :doah: :haha:
 
just ordered a gal of black Al's liner with rubber crumb for this... gonna do the floor next week... constempating doing a windshield too..

Mutt's bed start got put off till the middle/end of april due to inspection.. so I have a bit more time before the tube, time and money need to be on that...

tho the tube purchase is the easy part of that.. the side boxes are what I need extra side money saved for.. oh well, plenty of Sandy OT still to be had..... :popcorn:
 
oh and... the next time I get back on this rig, hopefully the fall, other than the obvious need for the MANY parts/cash influx this pit needs, the main new "custom" project will be starting the wiring on the rig..

excited, yet dreading it... :haha:

once the floor/windshield is done, the interior/cage is ready for wire runs... another material expense all it's own... even just wire/connectors, let alone the ECM... :doah:
 
I'm tempted to go off.. biggest issue is temp... next week is gonna be cold as balls and my heats down.. I'm taking the edge off with the dryer! :haha:

I could rig up my propane heater easy enough if I was gonna go for some paint deal...

but honestly, don't think it'll happen, especially money-wise.. I also need primer, clear and hardener to go along with that base to actually "finish" anything....

the only thing I have is black imron, and a bit of hardener.. so add $300 for that stuff too.. and the smart paint buy is just to go for the gal of copper.. it should finish the rig, including it's final block-out and overcoat... and 400 is actually lite.. I think it's more in the 450, 460 range iitc..

I'd rather see about getting a windshield in it..
 
Why does your inspection have any thing to do with the tube bed?

Also please share as much as you can about your experience with the AL's liner. I tried it before and didn't have any luck with it on the bottom of my cab. The Al's peeled off in big sheets. Not sure what happened. It stuck very well to a test piece, but not to the cab.
 
cuz I need to run Mutt thru inspection and I'd rather do it before I go ripping the bed off..
 
alrighty.... brunch break to warm my feet... here's todays agenda... more custom clusterfloogin nonsense... :screwy:


doing a bunch of stuff around the Lab trying to clean up for the bandsaw getting here... but I'm gonna try to figure out the lower kick panel right now..

it's very conceivable I could come up with an "all fiberglass" solution down the road... but if I need/want/prefer to get some metal added/welding done, now's the time to do it..


the other issue is composite... I am VERY light on material.. and it's a big expensive pain in the arse to get.. so I wont be buying any anytime soon... at some point, I do need to get some to make the doors for the tool wall... but for now, I have scraps...


so here's what it's looking like down there with the ECM panel, etc...



100_0916_zpsf561ce0f.jpg





originally, I was gonna build a fiberglass channel across the bottom of the ecm mount to stick the kick panel in... more on that later..

but now if I can, I'm gonna see about just wedging it right in the sheetmetal 90 at the bottom of the firewall below it..

ok, great... except...




100_0914_zpsd1d3a478.jpg





this is just a smaller hunk in there to see how it locks in.. nicely.... :waytogo:


but... the angle that firewall rides at is just a bit different from the lower glove frame... :doah:

so the flat panel will get all caddywombus as it gets up to the latching point up at the glove frame...


in addition... I don't even have a piece of composite big enough to go from the firewall to that bar... it's 13"s.. widest piece I have is 11...


and also, the angle that green zinced lower frame is at, isn't correct for the lower panel.. in other words, you couldn't overhang the hatch and have it st on a flush lip.. it would have to be perfect fit to the lip..



so.. that all leads to... possible more metal work.... :doah:

putting in another 2 x 1/4" strip at a slight angle to the green one...



100_0919_zps65af44ec.jpg





this would solve the angle, "hatch having a flush lip to sit on" aspect... it does close up the opening a bit, but it's still gonna be damn manageable even once stuffed with electrical components.. tho I was kinda hoping the metalwork was done over here..

but what it doesn't solve is that slight angle difference between the firewall notch and the dash.. back to the ECM panel.... if I run the fiberglass channel, I can mount it at a slight angle for the panel to sit in...

also it moves the panel up the firewall a bit.. shortening it enough to where the 11" wide piece I have, should work... not that I couldn't "make" a wider piece, I just would rather not...


so more metalwork and some glassing, yay...



sheesh, I forgot.. I need to grind/put a channel at the top of the side console panel too, up front above the heat.. the kick is gonna lock in over there too.. more glass work... :doah:



100_0903_zps1b9a7fa6.jpg





but that will be real nice how the kick locks in over there at a 90 too... :D


alrighty, we'll go with that and see what kinda nightmare path it leads to... :haha:
 
Last edited:
well, it is joysey after all... :doah:

bumper, who needs a stinkin bumper?!? :whistle: :haha:

nah, I just pay my local shady dude his c-note and get a sticker.... but I figure why complicate things..

gonna be a big enough deal driving around for a couple months in various states of skeletal tube construction.. gotta 8' long angle iron to bolt my mudflaps to, than clamp to the frame rail to run around with till I can get em hardmounted..

luckily I can leave the existing taillights unmolested thru the beginning of the project.. the only questionable thing at this point is the transisition of the fuel fill over from the saddle tank to the big single I'm gonna run.. but I think I have an idea..

I also have a bunch of initial "off vehicle" fab that can be done... gotta build my tube coffin! :woot: :grind::weld: :haha: :whistle:
 
What does the original glove box door look like on one of these?

Any chance of using that for a frame or pattern to mold the plexi? Or have it scanned and make an all plastic or glass one :dunno:
 
let me go over a few things about the actual door and some train of thought thru this....


the factory door could never fit now cuz the bottom hinge area is all different now to accomadate the flat plexi....

which brings up curves.. yes, a factory glove has an ever so slight curve to the door... you can see that shaping in the sheetmetal lines next to the plexi...

I like it flat.. it was the original idea behind this... not to have a translucent glovebox door, but to be a flat panel.. it needs to be 3/8 tho..

that said, trust me, I've contemplated whether, and how I could do the slight bow plexi approach too..

couple ways if I wanted to do it..

bending the plexi is relatively easy (we used to do it for boat windscreen s all the time), heatlamp it, laying it on an old glovebox..

but than ya have the gap to contend with at the middle sides.. you could cheat/hack and shape some weatherstrip... you could glue a plexi moon piece at either end of the door, reshape the flange, yada.....

but, I really don't think it'd be worth it.... I think curving the door will take away from the look, just have the thickness right on a flat one..

also.. I've been talking about the shaping of the sides... not only a nice little rounding to each corner, but the bevel of the sides too... that's why the thicker 3/8 will help too.. if you've ever looked at that glove opening, the sides go in at an angle next to the door...

that's how you finish off the door, shape it on my belt sander, wetsand the pee out of it and buff it on the Wheeeel of Bling....

right now, it's all about getting hard fab down at this point.. I can iron details out later.. trying to get everything welded, painted, etc.. to where it's JUST bolting parts in/on...
 
oh.. wait.. no... the angle issue I just mentioned with the kick panel has nothing to do with the plexi door.. or even the frame/hinge it's attached to.. I thought you where talking about the door sides..


it's just the dash "line" in relation to the firewall/floor "line" causing funky angles... no big, figured it out already.. :D
 
i removed it because it was out of place...but yeah...I've never seen anything like that...the shark is just weird
 
did some rummaging around and found the fiberglass angle pieces I need to glass in.. so tomorrow I got a full day of metal and glass work...


on a side Lab note/rant..

they all f*cked my saw delivery.. it should have been here today.. but somehow ups freight had the wrong phone # for me.. finally talked to em tonight.. probably wont see it till Monday afternoon now and theres supposed to be a storm coming in..

not critically neededl, it could get here midweek, but you know how it goes.. spend a g on a toy, ya wanna play with it.. :haha:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom