87 mix and match chevy build...It's back to life!

[shadowwalker_02]

I'm finally starting on building my 87. It's actually an 84 k-20 frame with a 87 1/2 cab on it. It currently has a 350 tbi/700r4/208 in it with stock 10 bolt front/14bolt sf. Im undecided if i want to keep the 350 tbi or upgrade to my 468 carbed. I am keeping the axles intact for awhile until i decide if i want to switch to the D70/14bff combo i have. I'll get pictures tomarrow.

 

[76zimmer]

I think if you put that 468 in there the axles will make up your mind for you....sounds like a good parts list so far...

 

[shadowwalker_02]

Ok so before I lift this thing 6 inches I have a quick question. I was looking underneath it and i found out that amber(the truck) has a load compensator on her. Is there going to be issue's with this when i decide to lift her? If so should i pull it and plug it or would it be worthwhile to make a relocation bracket for her? I do like the load compensator on my 3/4T 2d and i seem to be able to stop it quicker. Any advice?

 

[shadowwalker_02]

I think if you put that 468 in there the axles will make up your mind for you....sounds like a good parts list so far...

Im still trying to decide if it would be worthwhile to swap it in as i am a complete n00b to the tbi world and if i do it would probably be a carb'ed setup. Along with the fact that im still trying to figure out how I would go about doing that. Not to mention i still need another 1k in parts to get it going.

 

[Corey 78K5]

Get it up and running and road worthy before you think about swapping engines. This will give you time to sort out other issues with the truck. As you said your a self proclaimed noob. Take some time to read up on builds and what not that the site provides. The more you know the more time and money you will save on your project.

 

[shadowwalker_02]

I intend on getting it running first. I made the mistake of trying to upgrade everything all at once with my suburban and failed horribly so I just want to get it running for now. Although I'm fighting the alternator bracket and P/S pump, once i have that done and assembled i should theoretically have it running, providing i don't have any more fuel pump issue's. I should have some pics later today.

As far as swapping the big block over that will be down the road a bit. If I don't swap the big block into my k20 then I'll swap it into my c20 if i can find a th400 as im positive ill blow that poor little th350 up within the first 10 miles.

 

[76zimmer]

I definitely agree with getting it running first.....enjoy some playtime before you take it apart, and the $$$$ snowball starts rollling...

 

[shadowwalker_02]

Here's some pics.

Here's the load compensator I was talking about,

Camera sucked for some reason ill try to get better one's tomarrow.

 

[shadowwalker_02]

Just received the raised steering arm and the u-bolts for the lift, just waiting on an extended rear brake line before i can do the swap. Other than that i just need to finish getting it running and swap the front fenders and maybe the hood.

 

[shadowwalker_02]

What a pain in the ass the serpentine belt is!!!! Finally got the brackets and
power steering pump bolted in. 5 trips to and from the parts store finally made me realize the first belt i had was the right one.... Do the belts and everything look like what its supposed to look like?

I had to piece everything back together as it didnt come with any brackets or accesories at all. That is something i'd prefer not to do again, what a headache. Here's some more pics, I'm hoping everything is there so i can try to fire it tomarrow then maybe continue with the lift next week.

 

[shadowwalker_02]

One issue concerning the alternator, I pulled it out of a 93 suburban and it fits but the plug in clip is different. Should i wire the one i yanked from the 93 sub or should i try to buy an alternator that will fit my plug? There both 1 wire plugs so i dont think wiring in the new one would be a hassle.

 

[76zimmer]

Serp setup looks right, as does the belt routing.

 

[shadowwalker_02]

Finally got it running. Motor sounded pretty healthy, minus some exhaust issue's but no big deal. Still needs some work but mostly small stuff. Hopefully i can get it driveable by next week.

 

[shadowwalker_02]

So i started the lift today and almost got the front done. I still need to hook the brake lines, drive line and finish tightening everything down.

Camera sucks at nighttime for some reason. If im not too tired tomarrow ill try to get the back done and finish the front.
I still need to get the 4wd shifter installed
Shocks installed
Bed taken off for fuel pump issue's
Interior finished
brackets made for captains chair's
B&m shifter installed.
Alot more stuff that I can't think of right now.

 

[shadowwalker_02]

Ok I screwed up but how?

So i finally got the right rear leaf pack off and discovered its actually a bit longer than my rough country springs by about an inch? I'm not understanding this. The old leaf packs are 3/4ton and the rough country was for a 1/2t burb. I measured both packs and the old one was 56" while the rough country was 55"ish? am i measuring wrong or am i just that slow today?

What am i missing? Do i need to buy a new set of leaf springs or can i fix this issue?

 

[shadowwalker_02]

Nevermind, the leaf packs i have are 52's I need the 56's.... My new build thread... How NOT to build a truck.

 

[shadowwalker_02]

So with my screwup firmly in mind, I can go two ways but id like some opinions first.

Option A - buy some 6 inch rear 56" or (price 309.00)

Option B - buy some 4 inch 56" rear springs and go with a 2" shackle flip

​

 

[shadowwalker_02]

Option C - Pull head out of ass and learn how to measure the correct way...

So I re-remeasured and both springs are 56" eye to eye. Now my question is if there both the same length then how come the new leaf pack is about 8" short? Can anyone point out what im doing wrong? Here's the latest pics.

 

[tRustyK5]

Well, springs get measured along the arch, not straight across from eye to eye. Second thing is spring makers have to make their springs longer along the arch due to the amount of arch. So, the springs you have may be close to 56" along the arch, but really are meant for a 52" application.

Knock out the rivets and move your rear hanger 4" or 5" forward...problem solved.

Don't forget with weight on em those springs will flatten out and get closer to the shackle.

Rene

 

[shadowwalker_02]

Well, springs get measured along the arch, not straight across from eye to eye. Second thing is spring makers have to make their springs longer along the arch due to the amount of arch. So, the springs you have may be close to 56" along the arch, but really are meant for a 52" application.

Knock out the rivets and move your rear hanger 4" or 5" forward...problem solved.

Don't forget with weight on em those springs will flatten out and get closer to the shackle.

Rene

Would it be easier to do that or go with a shackle flip with the stock springs? I say that because if i have to knock the rivets out it makes more sense to upgrade the rear shackles and make them stronger while im at it. The stock leafs seem a bit more heavy duty. FWIW i checked the part numbers on the rough country's and they ARE 52"..