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87 mix and match chevy build...It's back to life!

80' 427 said:
Your cam should be with those tiny peanut ports, they run out of air a 4500 so getting cam for anymore is just a waste of money. Plus with the 7.8-8 to one compression you have you can't afford to let out too much of that cylinder pressure.
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I will have to look in my book to get the exact cam specs but its not stock. I have the comp cams xtreme energy 4x4 cam in it. My compression is 10.5-1 with speed pro pistons, don't quote me, ill double check. Yes I know the heads suck but the heads are a sore subject with me and its a long story.
 
shadowwalker_02 said:
Fan I bought today is somewhat like a flex fan but not flexible. I call it the propeller. I don't think I'll be buying another flex fan though. Anyways I made some headway on the 468. Had to tear the heads off to clean it up and make sure the pistons didn't have any dirt on them, they did. One big ass expensive mistake that I wont make again is not covering a motor up completely. I should have it put back together sometime next week and fired. Alas, here is some pic's.

PICT0124.jpg


PICT0127.jpg


Here are the headers, have no idea what brand but I'm in the process of sandblasting them and getting all the rust off them.
PICT0128.jpg


Can't wait to hear this thing finally. Btw, This motor was rebuilt in 08...:doah:
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With these pistons and 236s you have 7.5 or less compression. Those are dishes and you have 118 cc chambers.

The motor coming out of my k30 is about the same. Not really a bad runner and will run on pee. My suggestion is save up for edelbrock performer 100cc heads or 65 325hp 396 heads (which will require seats). My new 454 is a vortec 454 short block with 781 oval ports, stock intake and a marine cam. Still only 7.8 to one compression. I am guessing 350ish and 480ftlbs. I will dyno it to know the difference between it and the current motor ( that is getting hot and loosing oil pressure).

How much timing you running? Mine ran much better with about 30 initial and 38 total. Welded up the slots in the dist. Low compression is lazy and needs more advance.
 
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:D You can't get rid of me that easily. No I've been caught up trying to play catch up on my yard work before code enforcement starts bugging me.

As far as the timing goes I can't remember but I'm going to re-time it tomarrow so I'll let you know.
 
My buddy never showed up with the timing light, go figure.

I'm leaving for NM today and i'll be back sunday. I'll see about getting a timing light when I get back.
 
I set the timing at 25 initial and 18 total. It runs a heck of a lot better but I still need to mess with the air/fuel screws on the carb and re-time it. Thankfully 70jimmy loaned me his timing light so I'll continue to mess with it.
 
That will make a good difference too. Mine ran way harder with alot of int. Hope to maybe get my new motor in this weekend.
 
I think I need to bump the timing a bit more. Drove it around yesterday and man what a blast. That abomination has power!

I'm still having DW in my left front area though. I'm too the point that I agree the tire's cause some of it but I'm thinking something else is bent either in the axle or something is cracked which allows too much movement. Either way this is driving me nuts.

Back story- I was driving to work one night with some ice on the road. As I was pulling in to the parking lot I slid into the curb at about 2-3mph. After that I started having death wobble, which come to find out was a bad steering box. Maybe something else is messed up. :confused:
 
Here's a short list of all the things that have caused my truck with 10 bolt front to steer weird:

1. slop in the steering box
2. old rag joint on the steering shaft
3. loose or worn out tie rod ends
4. bent tie rod
6. bad drag ling ends
7. loose sleeve on drag link
8. bad tire
9 bad brake rotor
10. loose hub nuts
11. loose nuts on the steering arm that attaches to the steering knuckle, which eventually caused -
12. broken studs on the knuckle for the steering arm to attach to
13. bad ball joint(s)
14. bad wheel bearings.
15. loose u-bolts on either axle (especially the front driver's side)
16. broken center pin for the leaf spring
17. any combination of these things

Some of these things don't seem like they would matter as far as steering, but in my experience they can. I'm sure I'm leaving something out, but if you check all these things, I think you'll be on the right track. I have to go through about once or twice a year and look at all that stuff. Seems like something always needs fixing too.

Try setting your toe at 1/8" in and see how it does. Then go back and check it to see if it stays where you set it. Play in the tie rod ends can make for a scary situation. If the death wobble gets worse when you get on the brakes, it's probably worn out tie rod ends.
 
andyblack said:
Here's a short list of all the things that have caused my truck with 10 bolt front to steer weird:

1. slop in the steering box
2. old rag joint on the steering shaft
3. loose or worn out tie rod ends
4. bent tie rod
6. bad drag ling ends
7. loose sleeve on drag link
8. bad tire
9 bad brake rotor
10. loose hub nuts
11. loose nuts on the steering arm that attaches to the steering knuckle, which eventually caused -
12. broken studs on the knuckle for the steering arm to attach to
13. bad ball joint(s)
14. bad wheel bearings.
15. loose u-bolts on either axle (especially the front driver's side)
16. broken center pin for the leaf spring
17. any combination of these things

Some of these things don't seem like they would matter as far as steering, but in my experience they can. I'm sure I'm leaving something out, but if you check all these things, I think you'll be on the right track. I have to go through about once or twice a year and look at all that stuff. Seems like something always needs fixing too.

Try setting your toe at 1/8" in and see how it does. Then go back and check it to see if it stays where you set it. Play in the tie rod ends can make for a scary situation. If the death wobble gets worse when you get on the brakes, it's probably worn out tie rod ends.
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Out of that list everything has been replaced except the tires. The tires are the cause of some of it but I've rotated all 4 tires to that corner and it acts the same way. It has less than 20 miles on a alignment so I know that's good. I would have to check the toe again to be sure what it was set at. I'm thinking I need to tear down the front hub and see if something is bent. If nothing else I will try to find a replacement front axle or ask god for the money to build my D70 front.
 
If those hub nuts are loose, that will cause some weird handling characteristics. It will make the tire look cambered out sometimes just sitting on the ground. Seems like the driver's side hub nuts like to come loose most often, probably because they are turning counter clockwise while you're going forward most of the time.
 
She loves me, She loves me not

Well I pulled her out of the backyard and fired her up today!. I love the sound of that motor. I must say the b***** hates me though. Just driving from the alley to the front yard she blew the steering stabilizer. Brand new stabilizer and its leaking like a sieve already. :doah:

I did buy a set of 15x10 8 lug rims over the winter though and i traded for a "decent" set of 37x12.5x15 swampers so I can swap rims and tires and see if the DW will go away finally.
 
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