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'87 Suburban Build "munepit" I'm Back! Missed all you guys!

Overview Gallery Discussion
Hey guys, on my rear springs. Would it hurt anything to get rid of the overload spring? I will be using bumpstops and im thinking i could get rid of it. I also think im going with 2" blocks in their also. I dont want to, but i think i need them.


There would be a tolal of 7 leaves in the rear pack.
 
munepit said:
Hey guys, on my rear springs. Would it hurt anything to get rid of the overload spring? I will be using bumpstops and im thinking i could get rid of it. I also think im going with 2" blocks in their also. I dont want to, but i think i need them.


There would be a tolal of 7 leaves in the rear pack.
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Why do you want to remove it?
DO you want it to be softer, or you trying to clean up the look?
 
Both I guess. Its huge! It should flex a bit better right? I need to take the packs apart to clean them and I figured I could remove it. I want to take out the overload in the front also. I have bump stops up their and that overload just sticks straight out.

On the rear, isn't the overload for towing and hauling heavy loads? I will never be doing either. The packs that are going in have 3 more springs than then the old packs, plus the overload.

Thanks!!
 
I'm not using blocks. I can use an add a leaf and the zero rates. It's going to take some time to figure all this out. I'm going to try and not use the add a leaf. I have 5 pair of springs in my garage right now. Maybe I can just add a spring or 2. Damn, I don't know. I don't want blocks, I don't want the add a leaf. I don't want to order custom springs or lift springs. I'm so indecisive.
 
Jeff, you could always flip the overload over, it will allow more flex and still stop it from over-reverse arching. You can always cut it down too, just make sure to radius the edges some. If you lose the front overload, flip the rear one over, you might be close to level without the need for blocks or 0rates.
 
Nermind, just looked. It is different. I'm going to cut it down some. Then use the zero rate.


Now I want to boatside it and cut off the botttom behind the rear wheels. Clearance the transfer case and put a huge skid plate under it.
 
There is 7 leaves in the pack plus the overload. Without the overload it will still go negative arch? Wow. Guess I will keep it. Thanks!
 
you can practice clocking the Tcase with mine :) I have the ring in the garage. Just need some floor massaging etc.
 
yep, and a 1" body lift. I think you may still need a little hammering on the floor. 3" BL is probably good. You could do the clocking, drop the Tcase 1" with your custom crossmember and skid plate. What's 1" drop when it's all flat really.
 
munepit said:
Just picked them up. Look good. Super heavy. Need to take them apart and clean them up and new bushings and bolts. Also I need new spring plates. These are thin and light. They worked good though. But i want some thick strong ones.



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Holy crap you cheated with just cutting the mounts straight off :eek1: I spent like 4 hrs sitting under a suburban and cutting an "access hole" in the floor with a hammer and screw driver at the pick-n-pull. Looks awesome though :waytogo:
 
ljlackey said:
Holy crap you cheated with just cutting the mounts straight off :eek1: I spent like 4 hrs sitting under a suburban and cutting an "access hole" in the floor with a hammer and screw driver at the pick-n-pull. Looks awesome though :waytogo:
Click to expand...

Funny, I just went through that over the weekend. I spent 20 min trying to get the 1 axle "U" bolt off when it dawned on me that I'm not gonna use them again....... 10 min. later they were off:grind::D
 
Since im waitng on bushings and greasable bolts from ORD, I decided to pull out the axle. It was only connected by the driveline and brakeline. Its getting shaved. Got a new cover on the way from Ruffstuff along with something else. Which i cant remember what else i ordered right now.


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Also need a new bumper.

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Has you heard of anyone raising the gastank in a burb? Since i have a 2" body lift, I want to raise up the tank 2 inches. I think that would help.









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I haven't thought of ever raising a gas tank, but good idea. I would like to see how its done of even possible.

And I'm not busting your balls, but those jack stands have me a little skeered.
 
Call me tomorrow, I have a few ideas on bobbing the rear frame horns and a rear bumper.

As far as those jack stands..... I have a idea for building some new ones as well.
 
Ya, im a little scared getting under there also. When i do i put another jack on the rear frame horns. But they are working well. Finny how there is so much overhang from the stands back.



On the tank, there is 2 crossmembers that the tank pushes up against and the straps holding it up there. 6 rivets per crossmember. Im thinking i can raise those crossmembers. With a little massaging and use bolts on them to the frame. It would be better if i could tuck it up there. Someone has had to have done this.
 
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