I found a pic of what 52s are supposed to look like. Im screwed!
CK5
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'87 Suburban Build "munepit" I'm Back! Missed all you guys!
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
Yea thats mo betta. I think that yours would last for a while if you added in that bottom overload spring. But yea, a set as pictured above would be better.
Ya, those aren't mine, but I have to work with what I have for now. I can always change them in the comming months!
So, I took a couple leaves out of my packs I just took out. I added the bottom short leaf and the 3rd from the bottom. Its now the 2 bottom leaves in the 52" pack. I only did one since when doing the second, the threads stripped when hammering in the bolt through the leaves. There is 1.5" difference. In height when next to the stock 52. There is no flat spot either.
Here is a pic.
Here is a pic.
Yeah, you don't want to hammer a spring pin in. You don't want to use the spring pin to pull the pack together either. Line the pin holes up, clamp them together with C-clamps or Vice Grips, and then shove your spring pin in there.
Martin
Martin
Don`t use a center bolt that you want to keep, use a long regular bolt to pull the pack together then clamp it and replace the bolt with a proper center pin.
Thats how I do it...works good every time.
Thats how I do it...works good every time.
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
Looks like you solved the problem tho...
Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk
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Got it almost done. Need some U bolts and tighten everything up. Oh, And I need a long slip yoke driveline!!! I hope the shackles get to a better angle when it on the wheels.
You didn`t what to use the overload spring?
It didnt come with one, and I dont have one. Is that going to hurt me?
I`m thinking it`s gonna sag sooner seeings how the sprnigs you used were allready kinda flat.
Looks good though. I`m interested in your opinion on the ride difference that the new springs will give.
I`d like to do the swap on my truck but I can`t afford the steering up grades.
Hope it all works out good for you.
Looks good though. I`m interested in your opinion on the ride difference that the new springs will give.
I`d like to do the swap on my truck but I can`t afford the steering up grades.
Hope it all works out good for you.
Holy long shackle batman, what is your front pinion angle with that shackle? What about your caster angle? Those shackles look way too long for the front.
I know WTF!! They are 7" shackles.
Jeff you coming down to KOH for the weekend or anything. I could bring you some overloads.
Come on man your not that far
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Well ya know, most folks that do the 52's move the shackle hanger forward also. If it doesnt work out you could move the springs back a hole. As it is your axle will be moves 2" forward with them in the hole you have them now. Good for firewall-tire clearance, not good for having your shackle hanger in the stock spot.
I literally killed springs in a day without the overloads, you should definitely find a set.
As for the shackle angle, it looks like there are still jack stands under the frame. Get those out and put all the weight on the axle and you'll see how it sits. Contrary to popular belief on the internet, what many consider the "right" shackle angle actually makes the effective rate of the springs stiffer. A lot of the reason people angle the shackle is thinking they'll need it for tons of droop but 45 degree angles are way overkill.
At this point I'd put it together, set it on the ground and see how you like it before moving the frame side shackle hanger.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Chris, isnt around 30* more ideal?
Chris I agree with you on the 45 deg overkill and putting it on the ground, but on the stiffer comment I'm curious to why you say this. Because I have read that before too in articles(or maybe it was a car chassis book, I don't remember), and thought about how it works and what forces are in effect, and in my opinion that comes from cars (or some trucks) that have flat springs (no arch left) at ride height. Because with a rear shackle angled forward and up on a flat spring, it will want to force the spring flat by putting the spring in tension because the bottom of the shackle is lower than the top, so as the spring pushes up on the shackle, the shackle pushes back on the spring, puts tension on the spring, causing more force necessary to bend the spring.
However, with a lift or arched spring, as the shackle pushes back on the spring to counteract the upward spring force, this tension will want to flatten the spring because it will lengthen it, since lengthening the spring will also compress it (or lower ride height), in this situation, I feel it would soften the spring rate.
So in my opinion, if the spring is flat at ride height, more shackle angle will stiffen it, if it is arched, then more shackle angle will soften the rate.
Does this make sense, and do you agree? Or is there something I am missing in my analysis of how it works? Because when I read something I have to know why, I just can't take it as fact without knowing how it works, so after I read that previously, this is what I had came up with. Now you mentioned it so it brought it back to me.
That's very subjective, with 52's you want some shackle angle for droop. For the best ride (lowest effective rate) the shackle has to be vertical or even forward a little, depending on the spring and it's arch.
