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'87 Suburban Build "munepit" I'm Back! Missed all you guys!

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That overload will not work as an overload the way that is set up. The spring will go into negative arch before it even hits the overload. Plus the spring will try and grab anything you get close to driving over.

I would turn it over, or pull it out.
 
I was thinking the same thing. What about pulling the overload and the zero rate to go lower?
 
kgblazerfive said:
That overload will not work as an overload the way that is set up. The spring will go into negative arch before it even hits the overload. Plus the spring will try and grab anything you get close to driving over.

I would turn it over, or pull it out.
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Ok. Thanks for the advice. So a flipped overload is bad? What if i take it out? The springs will go negative also right. Do you think i need the overloads in their? I want to take the fronts out too. But i have heard bad things about not running them.

Thanks.
 
You aren't going to get the flex you want without negative arching the springs. It will ruin the spring faster but that's the name of the game, flex. In your pictures (like ur signature) you are already negative arched. If you really don't want to do that anymore, put in some bump stops to stop travel where you want. This way, you can pull all the overloads out and drop it an inch or so. You have a welder no? Weld up some bump stop spacers to drop them closer to the axles. You can do it!
 
I would flip them back over. I would them become friends with a body saw, or hook me up with the 42's.:whistle:

I have factory 63's in the back of mine with the overloads have not had any issue with spring wrap. Scott my neighbor has same springs minus the overloads and has had to put a fraction bar on.
 
kgblazerfive said:
I would flip them back over. I would them become friends with a body saw, or hook me up with the 42's.:whistle:

I have factory 63's in the back of mine with the overloads have not had any issue with spring wrap. Scott my neighbor has same springs minus the overloads and has had to put a fraction bar on.
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could he not convert the springs to decimals?

:woot: :thumb: :haha:
 
I just need to do a coiple more things to be ready to drive this. Most important thing is bleeding rear brakes. Going to try and get my wife to help. Going to be hard, she wants nothing to do with it.







Check out my awesome getto fab bumper!!!







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I sure hope you don't "bump" much of anything with that... Your poor fenders looks so scared and alone over there:eek1:
 
munepit said:
Ya, im a little scared getting under there also. When i do i put another jack on the rear frame horns. But they are working well. Finny how there is so much overhang from the stands back.



On the tank, there is 2 crossmembers that the tank pushes up against and the straps holding it up there. 6 rivets per crossmember. Im thinking i can raise those crossmembers. With a little massaging and use bolts on them to the frame. It would be better if i could tuck it up there. Someone has had to have done this.
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Jeff, I moved my tank up and forward about 2" each...check my thread, it might give you some ideas.
 
hope the cops don't give you grief with that bumper, though they haven't about your front yet. My front is the same, until I can extend the sides. The rear, not sure yet what I'm doing.
 
Jeff flip that overload back over it will make the springs last longer, with that shackle angle you should have a lot of droop. Other than flipping that overload back over I say stay as is, burbs are huge they can handle more overall altitude than a K5 can.

Before you really take it crawling though make sure the tires aren't binding in the wheel wells or anything, that will break stuff if they are


You are going to run out of shock travel in the rear I think
 
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