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89 K5 Code 32 & black smoke at WOT

omgwtf2

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Morrison, IL
Hello to all.

I have a 89 K5 Blazer 350 TBI Code K 98k miles Auto 4x4.
Things I replaced: Heads/Coil/Distributor/Cap/Rotor/Wires/Plugs/Radiator/Thermostat 195F/Exhaust(full length Headers)/Upgraded FPR adjustable with Vacuum/Rebuilt TBI/Timing chain & gears/o2 Sensor/EGR & Solenoid. All stock replacement MSD (Cap rotor coil) & AutoZone.

Timing is set at 0* (with wire unplugged)
Reset by disconnecting battery for 5min.

1: Drive for 10-15 minutes SES light comes on. After 45 -1hr it shuts off and it just repeats.(During errands) Jumper/Code 32 appears.(Engine runs smooth all speeds & idle)

2: During normal driving I have no visable exhaust, if I try to pass (3/4 throttle) Black smoke comes out. My new dual exhaust pipes are getting sutty.(650 miles)

My fuel pressure (inline connector in front of filter) With no engine just ignition is 6psi. With the engine running 14psi. The adjustment screw is all the way backed out on the FPR.

I have a MSD 6al box mounted not hooked up yet. I wanted to see my gas milage before & after hook up. I'm getting 13.4 with these problems.

Thank you all in advance for your time & help.
 
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Welcome to CK5. :waytogo:

Not sure what your issue is with the Blazer, but I do like the user name you picked. :haha:

Might be a CTS, although usually when they fail they tell the ECM ambient air is -60F...your symptoms don't support that.

Rene
 
It smoked blue and black I replaced the heads and figured to do some extra stuff.
Time chain came off with out un-bolting the cam gear so changed most of the exterior of the engine.
But the black smoke & code is throwing me off.
 
Well, black smoke and soot, means too rich of course.
The code 32 and fuel mix might or might not be related.

I would expect more codes if its running that rich.
The fact that it seems to do it at full throttle sounds suspicious. Double check the air supply. It sounds like when you call for max air, it just can't get enough.
Double check the filter, and all air passages for a rag or critter that might be hiding somewhere.
Saw a wasp's nest in an air horn one time.

The changing fuel pressure bothers me. FI needs constant pressure to work right.
A carb is more forgiving. As long as its not lifting the needle off its seat, or starving it, a carb is happy.
But the computer has no way to tell how much gas pressure is available. It pulses the injectors for a certain length of time, and watches the oxygen sensor. If it sees a rich condition, it shortens the length of pulse and learns.
At that point, if the pressure is constant, then the amount of gas going into the engine will be a direct function of the length of the pulse.

But, if the pressure varies, then the computer is lost. It outputs a certain length of pulse and gets the expected result.
Then the pressure doubles. It gives the same length of pulse, but suddenly it gets double the amount of gas it intends.

It tries to compensate, but you have backed off the throttle and the pressure is back where it was.

You really need to find out what is going on with the fuel pressure reg. before you worry too much about the EGR (code 32).
 
Is this a vacuum referenced FPR? And if so where did you run the vacuum line to the regulator?
 
Fordum:
i have a new air cleaner. I ran carb cleaner thru the ports and lines.
The FP is confusing with the power on no engine it 6psi with the engine running 14psi. Also to let all know I did some of the TBI modification which is I added a 1/4" spacer to the injector body removed the the top of the bore material put the "salad bowl" looking thing between the air cleaner and TB.
All in the attemp to help the A/F mix.


zombiyjay76:
I haven't hooked up the vac to the FPR when I tried the engine died. I thought the pressure was to high when I saw the black smoke & I tried to lower it to 9 or 10psi.(Run engine check pressure shut off engine adjust. Repeating theses steps)
But was unable to even get to 10psi. I reused the original FPR spring it was in good shape.

The code 32 was with me from the start. Meaning before the parts replacement, Heads etc.
I replaced it with the upgrade one from Auto Zone disconnected the battery during the repair to erase the codes, then it was back so then I replaced the EGR controller, same code again.(I wonder if the upgrade is the wrong one?)
The truck doesn't bog down at any throttle. Beside it's in overdrive by 35 but that's another thread.

TexasSilhouette:
I will give that a try in a hr & see if I get a code.

Again thanks to all for your time.
 
TexasSilhouette:
I cleared the codes and drove it with the EGR Vac port plugged now the codes are 32 & 43.
 
This time now there is no black smoke just a little blue. I thinking of replacing the TPS & MAP Sensor so I start off with all new?
What do I need to do with the FPR?
Do I set the pressure with the engine off power on or start stop the engine?
 
When I adjust mine I disconnect the vacuum line and adjust FP while engine is running, then reconnect vac line after adjustment is made. I also had to find a different location for the vac line. Some people say to tee into the MAP sensor, but this made mine run like crap so I tee'd into the vac line for the cruise control.( the vac line that goes to the round vac reservoir, I think that is for the cruise cont)


If you still have the stock EGR, check and see if the vacuum ports are the same. When I replaced mine they gave me the wrong one, the port was too big and the stock one had a small pin hole in it.


The whole dying after 45 mins, I'm not sure about that, but some of the more experienced will have more info.
 
My adjustment screw is all the way out & 14 is where it is. I used the stock yellow spring not the higher one supplied. I figured to adjust the pressure with just the pump on and set it to 15 or 16psi and the vacuum should bring it down to 10 or 11psi?
 
This time now there is no black smoke just a little blue. I thinking of replacing the TPS & MAP Sensor so I start off with all new?
What do I need to do with the FPR?
Do I set the pressure with the engine off power on or start stop the engine?

Your EGR was open under WOT, that is what caused the black smoke.
There is a problem in your EGR circuit, probably the valve. EST code my be a result of driving with EGR plugged, work one code at a time. You know there is an EGR problem (code + black smoke), work it first.

How is the EGR valve plumbed, is it still going through the solenoid?
 
No I don't, sorry.
I just picked up a new EGR120, TPS & MAP Sensor I will replace the EGR first when the truck cools off & give my results.
If it clears with no codes, then I will start on the FPR.

Thanks again to all for the help.
 
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When I adjust mine I disconnect the vacuum line and adjust FP while engine is running, then reconnect vac line after adjustment is made. I also had to find a different location for the vac line. Some people say to tee into the MAP sensor, but this made mine run like crap so I tee'd into the vac line for the cruise control.( the vac line that goes to the round vac reservoir, I think that is for the cruise cont)


If you still have the stock EGR, check and see if the vacuum ports are the same. When I replaced mine they gave me the wrong one, the port was too big and the stock one had a small pin hole in it.


The whole dying after 45 mins, I'm not sure about that, but some of the more experienced will have more info.
You used a remote located FPR?
I keep taking off the top injector sectionto adjust mine. I'll end up pulling it off tomorrow to see if the spring is still good.
Any way what would be the start psi with Vac off? The book said 9-13psi.
 
Your EGR was open under WOT, that is what caused the black smoke.
There is a problem in your EGR circuit, probably the valve. EST code my be a result of driving with EGR plugged, work one code at a time. You know there is an EGR problem (code + black smoke), work it first.

How is the EGR valve plumbed, is it still going through the solenoid?
Well there is a difference between the two EGR's the new one I installed (EGR 120) came with washer to restrict the flow I used the #42 washer & now no 32 code or black smoke.

Thank you TexasSilhouette for leading me in the right direction.
 
Well, black smoke and soot, means too rich of course.
The code 32 and fuel mix might or might not be related.

I would expect more codes if its running that rich.
The fact that it seems to do it at full throttle sounds suspicious. Double check the air supply. It sounds like when you call for max air, it just can't get enough.
Double check the filter, and all air passages for a rag or critter that might be hiding somewhere.
Saw a wasp's nest in an air horn one time.

The changing fuel pressure bothers me. FI needs constant pressure to work right.
A carb is more forgiving. As long as its not lifting the needle off its seat, or starving it, a carb is happy.
But the computer has no way to tell how much gas pressure is available. It pulses the injectors for a certain length of time, and watches the oxygen sensor. If it sees a rich condition, it shortens the length of pulse and learns.
At that point, if the pressure is constant, then the amount of gas going into the engine will be a direct function of the length of the pulse.

But, if the pressure varies, then the computer is lost. It outputs a certain length of pulse and gets the expected result.
Then the pressure doubles. It gives the same length of pulse, but suddenly it gets double the amount of gas it intends.

It tries to compensate, but you have backed off the throttle and the pressure is back where it was.

You really need to find out what is going on with the fuel pressure reg. before you worry too much about the EGR (code 32).
Hey Fordum I got the EGR issue resolved. Tomorrow I will remove the Injector section & open the FPR. I wonder if the spring is binding & not allowing me to adjust any lower then 14psi.
The two different readings are the 6psi with just the ignition on engine off the 14psi is while the engine runs?
 
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