The 8.1 resource thread has part numbers for OE throttle cables. Most of us are running L29 throttle bodies if we chose to ditch the DBW setup.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Unfortunately I'm already using both fan outputs. I wish the trans side had a temperature controlled output.
I was thinking maybe I could make my own cable. The 98 truck cables are about 18" longer than what I have. I wish I could find a good picture.
I'll check that out.
@Wes Harden, I have your luck with fittings. No startup for me today! 
And that's with just 10 to 20psi of residual pressure. I'm thinking this isn't fixable.
And that's with just 10 to 20psi of residual pressure. I'm thinking this isn't fixable.
To be clear, the leak is coming from the hose side where the little tube goes into the "nut".
In the software on the laptop you can create a custom output and the Holley reads the temperature of the trans already. I’m willing to bet you could create a way to control the trans fan.
been google fu-ing some today so far I found this alternative to Derale https://www.latestrage.net/catalogue?categoryID=2046&partNumber=119240#pg_3023, no real world revues yet.
Also very crappy description on the web site. Closes @180° F
Summit didn't seem to have a decent -6 an fitting to accept the switches they offered.
Also very crappy description on the web site. Closes @180° F
Summit didn't seem to have a decent -6 an fitting to accept the switches they offered.
More Google Fu https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-18900#reviews
Okay I ran the pump while feeling around the fitting and the leak is coming from where the braided line comes out of the fitting.
I took it apart and everything looks right. I think I may have a hose size problem. I actually have some 5/16" stainless braided line I bought to make trans cooler lines. I have also purchased true -6an braided line. Both are stainless. Could the issue be 5/16" hose in a -6 fitting?
I've got to call it a night, but I did find some other hose and fittings that work good enough to complete the system. Had time to verify no other leaks in the system. It'll be good enough to test fire the engine.
I also fought with dead batteries today.
Hopefully Monday or Tuesday I'll be able to light it off. Last step is uploading the tune to the Terminator.
Here's my little setup to run the fuel pump for leak testing and pressure setting.
I took it apart and everything looks right. I think I may have a hose size problem. I actually have some 5/16" stainless braided line I bought to make trans cooler lines. I have also purchased true -6an braided line. Both are stainless. Could the issue be 5/16" hose in a -6 fitting?
I've got to call it a night, but I did find some other hose and fittings that work good enough to complete the system. Had time to verify no other leaks in the system. It'll be good enough to test fire the engine.
I also fought with dead batteries today.
Hopefully Monday or Tuesday I'll be able to light it off. Last step is uploading the tune to the Terminator.
Here's my little setup to run the fuel pump for leak testing and pressure setting.
-AN 6 is closer to 3/8" then 5/16"
My other frustration for the day, you can't always believe the box.
I thought I needed to make arrangements to get some distilled water but then I saw the box and decided otherwise. I did think it was odd because the coolant capacity is pretty high.
Then I pulled the jugs out to start filling the radiator.
Grrrr.
I thought I needed to make arrangements to get some distilled water but then I saw the box and decided otherwise. I did think it was odd because the coolant capacity is pretty high.
Then I pulled the jugs out to start filling the radiator.
Grrrr.
You really need to stay with the correct line for the fittings. Also, we have never had good luck mixing and matching fitting and hose manufacturers. Rule of thumb is always keep it the same. With all different braid densities, hose wall thickness, and interior hose reinforcement nowadays its good safety measure.
Like Wes said, -6 is 3/8". For 5/16 hose in a -6 fitting the rubber would be stretched quite a bit around the male portion, and the collar over the hose will not seal the hose tight against the male piece. There's a good possibility the hose split when running it in too. Or even the hose is just being pushed back when you run it in.
If this is all PTFE and PTFE fittings then its a little different and you have to work the ferrule. I don't think you'd be able to even get it together with incorrect size ptfe.
Like Wes said, -6 is 3/8". For 5/16 hose in a -6 fitting the rubber would be stretched quite a bit around the male portion, and the collar over the hose will not seal the hose tight against the male piece. There's a good possibility the hose split when running it in too. Or even the hose is just being pushed back when you run it in.
If this is all PTFE and PTFE fittings then its a little different and you have to work the ferrule. I don't think you'd be able to even get it together with incorrect size ptfe.
-6 means 6/16" which is equal to 3/8". -5 would be 5/16".
He's correct, if you have an available output you could program it to turn on based on trans temp. If you need help let me know. I typically just put the trans cooler in front of the radiator and let the radiator fans do the work.
Is that the factory TBI hose that's leaking?
That's annoying! Start keeping couple gallons of distilled water on hand just in case.My other frustration for the day, you can't always believe the box.
I thought I needed to make arrangements to get some distilled water but then I saw the box and decided otherwise. I did think it was odd because the coolant capacity is pretty high.
Then I pulled the jugs out to start filling the radiator.
Grrrr.
Just saw this, it's not the factory hose.Okay I ran the pump while feeling around the fitting and the leak is coming from where the braided line comes out of the fitting.
I took it apart and everything looks right. I think I may have a hose size problem. I actually have some 5/16" stainless braided line I bought to make trans cooler lines. I have also purchased true -6an braided line. Both are stainless. Could the issue be 5/16" hose in a -6 fitting?
I've got to call it a night, but I did find some other hose and fittings that work good enough to complete the system. Had time to verify no other leaks in the system. It'll be good enough to test fire the engine.
I also fought with dead batteries today.
Hopefully Monday or Tuesday I'll be able to light it off. Last step is uploading the tune to the Terminator.
Here's my little setup to run the fuel pump for leak testing and pressure setting.
Yes, each hose end is designed to work with a specific hose ID and wall thickness, mixing them up could definitely cause an issue.
I admit I generally poo-poo the mixing brands thing on the hoses, but obviously it bit me this time. It's either a mixed brand issue or size issue. I figured out I have a couple of Earl's Vapor Guard fittings and hose left over I can make a more permanent replacement.
I'm going to have to dedicate some time to figuring out all of the stuff the Terminator can do along with the digital dash. I did learn you can connect a mouse to the digital dash to make setting it up much easier which will be really nice.
I'm planning to remote mount the trans cooler to open up the area in front of the radiator. I am trying to keep the door open for some day when I can have a condenser in front of the radiator and wheel in comfort. Then I can be like @6872xtc and keep the windows up so I don't have to talk to the riffraff on the trails.
Do you know if it's also possible to set that up on a toggle on the digital dash? So that it could be turned on based on temperature or I would have the option to manually trigger it.
I'm going to have to dedicate some time to figuring out all of the stuff the Terminator can do along with the digital dash. I did learn you can connect a mouse to the digital dash to make setting it up much easier which will be really nice.
I'm planning to remote mount the trans cooler to open up the area in front of the radiator. I am trying to keep the door open for some day when I can have a condenser in front of the radiator and wheel in comfort. Then I can be like @6872xtc and keep the windows up so I don't have to talk to the riffraff on the trails.
There is multiple ways to do that. The simplest is, if you are using a ground output for example to turn on the fan relay, then just have a switch to ground trigger the same relay in parallel.
Or, if you want the switch to be able to manually switch on the fan relay, or manually disable the ECU trigger (for water crossings or something), then you would run a SPDT switch to either turn on the fan relay or interrupt the signal to the fan relay from the ECU.
Or you can have the output triggered by a virtual switch in the digital dash. I've noticed, at least on some versions, the digital dash switches default to off when you key off and back on, so keep that in mind whatever you use a virtual switch for, it has to be OK if it defaults to off, or you need a mechanical switch.
You could also make a virtual switch that only disables the fan relay by having another criteria need to be met in order for it to work.
You could have two virtual switches, one for Auto/Disable and one for Auto/On
You could also point your windsheild washer fluid squirter toward the window area so if any riffraff shows up you could squirt them with water.
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I would do a SPDT myself for the option to turn it off if I need to
