CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I once filled a trans with the dry spec fill amount instead of the filter change amount. Well over double what it should have had. It evened itself out on the test drive by ejecting the excess fluid out the breather. It was all good after that.
 
Passenger side inner fender installed. Looking at the hole for the shock, it's interesting to see how the alignment changes with the fenders angled in.

Aside from cutting off the flat part of the inner fender, I also had to hack out a section for the heater box.

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I wired up a couple switches for the trans. One of them is to manually turn on the trans cooler fan. I included an indicator light, but for some reason when the switch is off the light is on and vice versa when the switch is on the light is off.

The fan operates as it should.

Here's how I wired it.

Screenshot_20240720_195415_Samsung Notes.jpg

When the switch is off, there is no path to ground so I don't see how the light can be on. Then off when the switch is on. Only thing I can figure is there's something going on in the light.

I did have time to take the crew cab for a spin. It ran great!

20240720_165602.jpg
 
I wired up a couple switches for the trans. One of them is to manually turn on the trans cooler fan. I included an indicator light, but for some reason when the switch is off the light is on and vice versa when the switch is on the light is off.

The fan operates as it should.

Here's how I wired it.

View attachment 481710

When the switch is off, there is no path to ground so I don't see how the light can be on. Then off when the switch is on. Only thing I can figure is there's something going on in the light.

I did have time to take the crew cab for a spin. It ran great!

View attachment 481712
If your computer is providing the ground, why do you have the other side of the relay going to chassis ground?
 
I wired up a couple switches for the trans. One of them is to manually turn on the trans cooler fan. I included an indicator light, but for some reason when the switch is off the light is on and vice versa when the switch is on the light is off.

The fan operates as it should.

Here's how I wired it.

View attachment 481710

When the switch is off, there is no path to ground so I don't see how the light can be on. Then off when the switch is on. Only thing I can figure is there's something going on in the light.

I did have time to take the crew cab for a spin. It ran great!

View attachment 481712
I can't remember the exact dilemma but I have a lighted switch that controls my fans manually as a bypass to the ecm turning them on and I had to run whole other relay to get the switch to light because of the whole grounding thing.
 
I wired up a couple switches for the trans. One of them is to manually turn on the trans cooler fan. I included an indicator light, but for some reason when the switch is off the light is on and vice versa when the switch is on the light is off.

The fan operates as it should.

Here's how I wired it.



When the switch is off, there is no path to ground so I don't see how the light can be on. Then off when the switch is on. Only thing I can figure is there's something going on in the light.

I did have time to take the crew cab for a spin. It ran great!
Is the LED a 12V LED?

LED need very little current to operate. It's possible it can pull enough current through the relay coil or elsewhere, it will be at a reduced voltage, but it could be enough if it finds a small ground path eventually through something. You could unplug the other two one at a time to see which one it is finding a ground path through.

Is it possible 12V is too much for the LED? If so you may need a resistor on the switched ground to work when on, and you may need a diode to the relay to prevent it from being on when off.

Or a different LED, or just a lighted switch. But an LED lighted switch, switching ground, won't work unless it's made to switch ground as you would need to reverse the polarity.

Or if it is a lighted switch it could pull current through the switch possibly.

LED frequently show things like this because of the small current and voltage required, where a regular bulb would do nothing or not be visible.
 
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I try removing the ecu wire to switch and see if lamp operates as expected
The interesting thing is I hadn't connect the wire to the ECU. I had the same revelation at you, I thought maybe it could ground thru the ECU when the ignition was off - then I remembered I hadn't even connected to the ECU yet.

The only fully connected wires were the gound off the light and the ground off the relay. The ECU wire was crimped in with them but was just laying on the carpet so no inadvertent metal contact.


Is the LED a 12V LED?

LED need very little current to operate. It's possible it can pull enough current through the relay coil or elsewhere, it will be at a reduced voltage, but it could be enough if it finds a small ground path eventually through something. You could unplug the other two one at a time to see which one it is finding a ground path through.

Is it possible 12V is too much for the LED? If so you may need a resistor on the switched ground to work when on, and you may need a diode to the relay to prevent it from being on when off.

Or a different LED, or just a lighted switch. But an LED lighted switch, switching ground, won't work unless it's made to switch ground as you would need to reverse the polarity.

Or if it is a lighted switch it could pull current through the switch possibly.

LED frequently show things like this because of the small current and voltage required, where a regular bulb would do nothing or not be visible.
I was wondering if maybe it was somehow getting just enough ground somewhere to light. As mentioned above, the ecu wire was not connected to the ECU and laying on carpet. So the only possible ground would be thru the relay. That wire has braided nylon sleeve over it so there shouldn't be any spots in the wire able to make metal contact.

It is just a cheap 12V light from the jungle company.

I wanted to take the truck for a drive so I didn't mess with it long. I just severed the LED light's ground wire. The light isn't critical, just nice to have.

This was all right before we left for a vacation trip so I won't be able to mess with it more until next week. Since I'm running out of time before our Utah trip, this light issue will probably be pretty low on the to-do list for the near future.
 
I am still plugging away getting this thing trail ready.

Finished up making a battery holder. I wanted to use up some old cans of paint so it ended up a hunter green color I don't recall buying but I had it anyway.

20240802_125725.jpg

I decided on the interest of time, I'm not going to shorten the super long air line I've been running. What do you do with extra house? Route it around the front and back (the small line looped in front of the radiator).

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This weekend I'm working on the hood. Unfortunately the cut line goes right thru the 2 previous hood pin holes.

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This hood was on my K5 and the hood pins for the crew cab were in a different spot, that's why I have 2 holes. The duct tape is over the most recent holes so I could make a line over them.

A "new" hood isn't an option right now. I will probably just patch the holes for now. And make a third set of holes for hood pins
 
Are you putting the outer flange back into the hood? If so, can you offset the cut to eliminate the holes, then reattach the flange? Of course this would mean that you are welding in the flat area, just inboard of the flange. And making 2 cuts per side.

I personally wouldn't leave an excessive amount of extra hose. It becomes a challenge to keep it safe or if using stainless braided line, to keep it from rubbing against something and chewing a hole in something else.
But I would loop it up smaller to try and minimize chafing in TOO many places.
If you can find a place to loop it and tie it up. Just my preference.
 
I am still plugging away getting this thing trail ready.

Finished up making a battery holder. I wanted to use up some old cans of paint so it ended up a hunter green color I don't recall buying but I had it anyway.

View attachment 482904

I decided on the interest of time, I'm not going to shorten the super long air line I've been running. What do you do with extra house? Route it around the front and back (the small line looped in front of the radiator).

View attachment 482905

This weekend I'm working on the hood. Unfortunately the cut line goes right thru the 2 previous hood pin holes.

View attachment 482903

This hood was on my K5 and the hood pins for the crew cab were in a different spot, that's why I have 2 holes. The duct tape is over the most recent holes so I could make a line over them.

A "new" hood isn't an option right now. I will probably just patch the holes for now. And make a third set of holes for hood pins
I've got a half circle on my hood as well, because of course the cut lines go right through the hood pin holes.
 
Are you putting the outer flange back into the hood? If so, can you offset the cut to eliminate the holes, then reattach the flange? Of course this would mean that you are welding in the flat area, just inboard of the flange. And making 2 cuts per side.

I personally wouldn't leave an excessive amount of extra hose. It becomes a challenge to keep it safe or if using stainless braided line, to keep it from rubbing against something and chewing a hole in something else.
But I would loop it up smaller to try and minimize chafing in TOO many places.
If you can find a place to loop it and tie it up. Just my preference.
I just cut the sides of the hood off completely yesterday. I think for now I'm just leaving the sides open. At this point I'm looking at this hood as my first edition to figure out the best way to make a better setup. I have a feeling I'm going to realize some things I coulda done different/better.

At first I was thinking the extra line would give me just a little bit more air volume but then I realized this is the air line from the solenoid to the rear locker. I'd still like to shorten it but not now. If it doesn't work I'm stuck having to replace the entire line. I'd rather just keep it functional this close to a big trip. Really I'd like to redo the air system so the rear locker solenoid isn't all the way up in the engine bay.


I've got a half circle on my hood as well, because of course the cut lines go right through the hood pin holes.
Must be a requirement. :rotfl:
 
The hood is definitely a tuition piece. Now that we've torn into one, I know what we could do better. When time allows like this winter I'm going to work on my other hood.

In the meantime, I've been working on the grill.

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Now I just need to join the 3 grille pieces together.
 
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