It was discussed, but there's not much holding the cowl panel.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
My cowl panel is welded to the body.
One of the other maintenance items I had was to replace a missing bolt in the transmission crossmember. The nut and washer were sitting on the frame rail like the bolt was still there. I figure that means the bolt vibrated loose. That surprises me because I used the all metal pinch lock nuts. However this isn't the first time I've found loose or missing bolts in this crossmember.
I decided to try Nord-Locks this time. Supposedly they're better against vibration than other types of bolt locking.
I decided to try Nord-Locks this time. Supposedly they're better against vibration than other types of bolt locking.
I have had better luck with them, but I’m getting to the point I almost want to tack weld some bolts in
I was going to use spacers like factory used, but they are surprising hard to find. At least new anyway. Plus I'm using larger 1/2" bolts.
I also went with fine threads this time around.
I also went with fine threads this time around.
Make them. Use 3/4 .120 wall tubing.
I have found a decent variety of spacers at the local True Value.
my hot tar machines use these and all the rolling on blacktop on steel wheels and over cracks and every thing they work .
the spacer was used to give the correct clamp load on the longer bolt to get the spec they needed .
also stover nuts / metal crimp nuts . never use lock washers my self i hate them suckers .
yea not a fan of split lock washers here either. You won't find me using them very often.
I just use the all metal pinch lock nuts. If they loosen, it likely just crushed the paint, and you retorque once and done.
If you get one that consistently won't stay tight with those nuts on it, its likely the clamp load isn't enough and it's still cycling the fastener. You may need a finer thread and/or stronger (higher grade and/or larger diameter) bolt torqued to a higher preload.
If you get one that consistently won't stay tight with those nuts on it, its likely the clamp load isn't enough and it's still cycling the fastener. You may need a finer thread and/or stronger (higher grade and/or larger diameter) bolt torqued to a higher preload.
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At the semi dealership we used "frame bolts" for everything. Had a pretty good selection in stock. They were black phosphate coated fine thread flange bolts with flange nuts that had like 3 little crimps on them to make them function like a pinch nut. No washers were used with them. Grade 8 for SAE and 10.9 for metric.
You confirm my thinking with going to the fine thread.
This was the first time I'd ever heard of the Nord-locks. Thought it would be worth trying them out.
I added some artwork to distract from rough fab work.
Some may be happy to know the Chevy solenoid is now kicking the starter. I'd been having the starter hang up for a few seconds after it started. I thought it was a shim issue but that didn't help.
A little Google searching revealed others having the same issue when using a Ford solenoid with Chevy starters.
Since I'm stubborn, I kept the Ford solenoid. Now I'm using it like a relay for the solenoid on the starter.
The wire from the key would have been difficult to get to the starter. By wiring it like this, I was able to route the new wire with the battery wire down to the starter.
No more hanging starter.
Some may be happy to know the Chevy solenoid is now kicking the starter. I'd been having the starter hang up for a few seconds after it started. I thought it was a shim issue but that didn't help.
A little Google searching revealed others having the same issue when using a Ford solenoid with Chevy starters.
Since I'm stubborn, I kept the Ford solenoid. Now I'm using it like a relay for the solenoid on the starter.
The wire from the key would have been difficult to get to the starter. By wiring it like this, I was able to route the new wire with the battery wire down to the starter.
No more hanging starter.
Scott warming up his tires with a 4-wheel burn out.
View attachment IMG_4273.mov
View attachment IMG_4274.mov
View attachment IMG_4273.mov
View attachment IMG_4274.mov
Thanks for posting that! I knew everyone wanted to see a 4-wheel burnout!
The truck worked great and the "new" engine was nearly perfect. It runs great and it's very responsive. I did have trouble with oil leaks. One of the valve covers leaks; thinking I may have pinched the rubber seal. It was really only an issue when the truck was angled that direction and running at highway speed for awhile. I assume because those 2 scenarios put the most oil into the cover. The other oil leak is at the oil cooler fitting. I need to make a bracket that holds the lines in place on the engine. I think the twisting between core support and engine is pulling on the fitting. I also may not have put enough slack in the line.
The truck worked great and the "new" engine was nearly perfect. It runs great and it's very responsive. I did have trouble with oil leaks. One of the valve covers leaks; thinking I may have pinched the rubber seal. It was really only an issue when the truck was angled that direction and running at highway speed for awhile. I assume because those 2 scenarios put the most oil into the cover. The other oil leak is at the oil cooler fitting. I need to make a bracket that holds the lines in place on the engine. I think the twisting between core support and engine is pulling on the fitting. I also may not have put enough slack in the line.
Some pictures from our recent Utah trip.
Sooo good
Awesome trip, nice working putting the engine together, glad it is working well for you, and it sounded good in your part throttle 4 wheel burnout! 
