CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I knew I should have double checked it would go in from the top but of course I didn't.
Did you build Jacks engine ?
Run the bypass hose all the research that I found it is not a option to not run it
Run the bypass hose all the research that I found it is not a option to not run it
Do some more interwebs research and found plenty saying the t-stat bypass holes are fine to replace the hose. Also read that the t-stat will usually perform better having the bypass holes.
Plus my heater hoses effectively serve the same function since I don't have a valve in those lines. The connections are in the same areas as the bypass hoses.
All that said, I know what to try first if I do have trouble. Plus Blazer Bash Hells Invasion will not be my shakedown run....
. 
On another note, I modified the crank pulley
Plus my heater hoses effectively serve the same function since I don't have a valve in those lines. The connections are in the same areas as the bypass hoses.
All that said, I know what to try first if I do have trouble. Plus Blazer Bash Hells Invasion will not be my shakedown run....
. On another note, I modified the crank pulley
wow that hurt.........
It's alright, I just set myself up for you to give me a load of shit when I overheat at Blazer Bash.
yup I will, and you will.
Got the ARB installed in the rear axle today. Gear setups are out of my league but my buddy Nate has done several so we struck a deal. He helped me with the install and He got the carrier and Detroit we removed to replace his Gov-Loc.
Once we reached the stage to check the current backlash, we discovered something wasn't quite right. There were a couple of spots where things didn't spin smoothly. It took a bit of extra force to spin the gears. We pulled the carrier and figured out it was the pinion not spinning smoothly. When we pulled the pinion out we could see some odd wear on one of the races. I'm speculating it was damage due to the driveshaft escapade back in November.
So we ended up doing a complete overhaul of the diff. Luckily I ordered a full kit. I was going to just by new carrier bearings and races but it was only $20 more to get a kit that included pinion bearings, crush sleeve, oil seal, pinion nut, pinion support shims, etc. Even ring gear bolts.
One of the things the ARB instructions tell you is that the carrier may not clear the housing and to check it with a 1/16" feeler gauge. The ribs at both bearing cap bolts were a problem. Picture only shows the top one:
You couldn't tell there was a problem when spinning the carrier, but it was as close as you could get without actually touching. So we ground the ribs down:
Here's the locker all installed, gears set up, and ready for the cover.
The ARB sure is nice looking. Makes the factory carrier look clunky.
I really like the Crane covers so I purchased one for rear to match the front cover I put on last year.
I decided to keep it green. Kinda like it.
I still need to connect the air line to the manifold/solenoid. And wire a switch to the solenoid. I think I will probably move the manifold from the front fender to somewhere under the cab to split the distance between axles.
Was definitely different driving home. No clunk in the rear when putting it in drive. No tire chirp accelerating thru the left turn onto the highway. No sway in the rear when getting on the throttle after coasting.
Once we reached the stage to check the current backlash, we discovered something wasn't quite right. There were a couple of spots where things didn't spin smoothly. It took a bit of extra force to spin the gears. We pulled the carrier and figured out it was the pinion not spinning smoothly. When we pulled the pinion out we could see some odd wear on one of the races. I'm speculating it was damage due to the driveshaft escapade back in November.
So we ended up doing a complete overhaul of the diff. Luckily I ordered a full kit. I was going to just by new carrier bearings and races but it was only $20 more to get a kit that included pinion bearings, crush sleeve, oil seal, pinion nut, pinion support shims, etc. Even ring gear bolts.
One of the things the ARB instructions tell you is that the carrier may not clear the housing and to check it with a 1/16" feeler gauge. The ribs at both bearing cap bolts were a problem. Picture only shows the top one:
You couldn't tell there was a problem when spinning the carrier, but it was as close as you could get without actually touching. So we ground the ribs down:
Here's the locker all installed, gears set up, and ready for the cover.
The ARB sure is nice looking. Makes the factory carrier look clunky.
I really like the Crane covers so I purchased one for rear to match the front cover I put on last year.
I decided to keep it green. Kinda like it.
I still need to connect the air line to the manifold/solenoid. And wire a switch to the solenoid. I think I will probably move the manifold from the front fender to somewhere under the cab to split the distance between axles.
Was definitely different driving home. No clunk in the rear when putting it in drive. No tire chirp accelerating thru the left turn onto the highway. No sway in the rear when getting on the throttle after coasting.
Ok, I'm late...
What about the fact that the lip you cut off locates the pulley on the balancer so it spins true? I'm betting the bolt holes have too much slack to center the pulley correctly. I know you said your balancer wouldn't accept the lip but could it be the balancer or pulley is wrong?
Hmm, I hadn't really thought about the centering of the pulley. I haven't bolted it on the balancer yet so I will have to see how snug the holes seem to be.
I bought the balancer off a fellow CK5er and it came off a 454. After discovering the issue with the pulley, I verified the balancer is externally balanced like it should be. The flex plate I bought with the balancer is externally balanced as well. The previous owner had an aftermarket serpentine belt setup so the crank pulley was different.
that makes sense about the balancer being from a serp setup. The pulley definitely centers in the balancer, whether or not that will be an issue I'm not sure.
You guys are killing me. Now I'm worried.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
If it's not centered it will toss belts and probably put additional wear on that front main bearing. It wouldn't be much different than an out of balance balancer if you think about it.
I am thinking about it, that's the problem. 
I would ditch that pulley, and get the correct one.
Martin
Martin
so do you convert to serp with a new serp pulley or buy a new harmonic balancer and new v belt pulley?
I think this is the one I bought https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-162454/overview/make/chevrolet
I think this is the one I bought https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-162454/overview/make/chevrolet
I may still have a used balancer if you go that route. I don't think I have that pulley but I'll look.
Serpentine!!
It's easier to get it figured out before the engine is in.
It's easier to get it figured out before the engine is in.
I would say right not the #1 issue with serpentine is the water pump. If it was still in the box exchange would be no biggie, but now I'm gonna be eating at least some cost since it has been installed. Probably cheaper to get a balancer and pulley. I've found the same pulley on Summit. If I hadn't, I wouldn't have been so quick to cut up the old pulley.
