It occurs to me having a short radius on the steering arm might make the steering action unmanageable because it would be very reactive to any movement of the steering wheel. In other words the steering would be too sensitive.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
isnt that slowed down by the gearing in the steering gear box?
Are you talking about the distance from kingpin center to the draglink hole or the tie rod hole?
I'm most concerned with the distance of king pin to draglink hole. I would be at about 4.5".
Reading through some other threads on 2wd to 4wd conversions and I just now discovered the rear spring hangers are shorter on the 2wd trucks. Is this true of the front fixed hanger and the rear shackle hanger? If I install a shackle flip will it still be 3" shorter, or does a shackle flip inherently make up the difference?
It will be shorter
rear spring front hanger is 3" shorter only.
and rivit pattern diffrent also cant just swap on 100% need to drill holes .
and rivit pattern diffrent also cant just swap on 100% need to drill holes .
Because it's just the front hanger, would I just be losing 1.5" of lift if I install a shackle flip?
I have 4" lift springs I was planning to run. I also have a 2.5" flip and 6" shackle. Trying to figure out what kind of combination I need to run.
I have 4" lift springs I was planning to run. I also have a 2.5" flip and 6" shackle. Trying to figure out what kind of combination I need to run.
If it is in the front I think its a full 3" shorter. So what ever you add will be three inches shorter because the front is shorter. If that makes any sense.
It's funny how something that seems so simple can be so hard to figure out. I'm probably over thinking it.
Actually I've decided that's the case overall. I've been trying to prep as much as I can before actually installing the axles, but I've decided I just need to do it. There are too many things I'm trying to work out ahead of time when I could figured it out quicker and more accurately if the axles were in the truck. Hopefully this weekend I'll have the axles under the truck.
Any one that wants to come hang out and help/heckle is welcome to come by the shop. I'm only working half the day Saturday but all day Sunday. Drop me a PM.
Actually I've decided that's the case overall. I've been trying to prep as much as I can before actually installing the axles, but I've decided I just need to do it. There are too many things I'm trying to work out ahead of time when I could figured it out quicker and more accurately if the axles were in the truck. Hopefully this weekend I'll have the axles under the truck.
Any one that wants to come hang out and help/heckle is welcome to come by the shop. I'm only working half the day Saturday but all day Sunday. Drop me a PM.
It's funny how something that seems so simple can be so hard to figure out. I'm probably over thinking it.
Actually I've decided that's the case overall. I've been trying to prep as much as I can before actually installing the axles, but I've decided I just need to do it. There are too many things I'm trying to work out ahead of time when I could figured it out quicker and more accurately if the axles were in the truck. Hopefully this weekend I'll have the axles under the truck.
Any one that wants to come hang out and help/heckle is welcome to come by the shop. I'm only working half the day Saturday but all day Sunday. Drop me a PM.
I'd be glad to come help but you live in the wrong place.
Front fixed hanger is to short. If you all is sayin' 3" i'll believe you. Can't remember from my own measuring.
That would make your overall height 1.5" different if you have already done the shackle flip on the other end.
i have a 77k30 thats a wd converted or early design from the factory with 2wd hangers and 3" blocks with bump stop ear's cast in them to level the back out.
thats how i know there 3" shorter over the 4wd stuff.
thats how i know there 3" shorter over the 4wd stuff.
I'd be glad to come help but you live in the wrong place.
After seeing some of the nonsense going on at the state capitol, I'm beginning to think the same thing!
I decided to just end the brain damage and ordered up a set of high-steer arms from ORD. Chris gave a little warning that I could have clearance issues with the custom springs clearing the tie-rod on the high-steer. Well it's very close, but it does clear after cutting off the excess ubolts.
I pointed out earlier that the inner axle shaft yoke was rubbing on the backside of the knuckle. I ground the yoke down with a flap disc. It was only the passenger side. It doesn't surprise me too much because those yokes barely fit through the hole in the knuckle.
Even after grinding the yokes to clear the back of the knuckle, I still ended up with the steering stop being just a little short, an 1/8" at most. But it's enough to move the steering a little when the yoke is at full steering angle. I'll add some weld to the stops on the inner C to fix that.
I'm also going to need to limit my hydraulic ram to just a little over 5" of stroke.
I pointed out earlier that the inner axle shaft yoke was rubbing on the backside of the knuckle. I ground the yoke down with a flap disc. It was only the passenger side. It doesn't surprise me too much because those yokes barely fit through the hole in the knuckle.
Even after grinding the yokes to clear the back of the knuckle, I still ended up with the steering stop being just a little short, an 1/8" at most. But it's enough to move the steering a little when the yoke is at full steering angle. I'll add some weld to the stops on the inner C to fix that.
I'm also going to need to limit my hydraulic ram to just a little over 5" of stroke.
Forgot I was going to add for anyone's future reference, the spring pack is 2.5" thick. Which is about the same thickness as my buddy's truck with 4" Tough Country HD springs with 1" zero-rate. He has a little more clearance because his front axle is moved forward with the zero-rate moving the tie-rod further from the spring plates. We both run ORD high-steer.
Neat socket.
Martin
Martin
Came up with that for dealing with overly long ubolts.
Yeah, I figured that is what it is for. I have a set of super deep 1/2 Snap On impact sockets. They work good for that.
Martin
Martin
I was thinking just the other day someone probably makes extra deep sockets. Problem with mine is I didn't bother the square it up when I welded it so it kinda wobbles when I spin it up fast with the impact.
