I agree with Chris
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Now that everything is mocked up are you getting full range of pitman arm/steering box in relation to the steering stops? If your steering stops are hitting before the pitman arm does its full swing and you aren't wanting to mod the stops for more steering you could do with a shorter pitman arm.
I'll have to double check, but I think the steering was running to the stops and not limited by the steering gear.
Another thought I've had is to use one of those offset TRE's from Ruffstuff at the pitman arm since it's setup for a TRE.
Another thought I've had is to use one of those offset TRE's from Ruffstuff at the pitman arm since it's setup for a TRE.
Thanks, I'm glad it's helping you out.Subscribed! Great work and sweet build. I'm going to steal some of your ideas, like the template for the shackle mount. I'm about to start the same swap on my 1991 R3500. I have a question, you might have said already but i didn't see it. What front shackle angle are you going for and about how long are you expecting your shackle to be? I'm kinda up in the air but i dont have the adjustability that you do, I'm using the factory front spring hangers. And last, how much drop is your pitman arm? Sorry for all the questions, thanks!
I'll let you know if that template works out with the frame clearance on the rear bushing, that's my only concern at this point. It did work for getting the spacing right between the front hanger and frame hanger.
As for the shackle angle, I want to make sure the springs are setup to function properly since Stephen went to all the trouble to design them. I spoke with him and he said to use the factory spacing which yielded approximately 90 degrees on the shackle angle. I don't know if this is best for all springs, but shackle angle does have an affect on effective spring rate.
I've been running this pitman arm for 7yrs so I don't remember the drop; it came with a crossover kit. I can measure it to figure it out. I have recently measured the length and it's 6.5" center of hole to center of hole.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
You cant just move the springs back a hole in the mounts? Or you just trying to avoid that?
mckustomfab
1/2 ton status
Thanks a lot, I will be keeping a eye on this one!
Right. The shackle angle is right where I want it. If I move the springs back a hole it will mess that up plus require longer shackles.
If I'd been thinking I could have mocked up a cardboard circle to represent the tire and added that to my drill template. Then I could have verified how the tire was sitting in the fender. Might have tipped me off that the axle was further forward than I expected.
moved axle
I redrilled the spring perches and move the axle back 1". It was easier than I'd anticipated. Actually the hard part was drilling the 1 factory spring plate I still have. Linkage looks better.
I redrilled the spring perches and move the axle back 1". It was easier than I'd anticipated. Actually the hard part was drilling the 1 factory spring plate I still have. Linkage looks better.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
That looks much better.
It's hard to measure with it in the truck but I would call it 3.5".
Yeah, I'm much happier with the location of the tire in the wheel opening as well.
I wish I could figure out a good way to determine where my axle actually is in relation to a factory setup. I don't know if maybe the front body mount for the cab would be the same for a 4wd & 2wd. I given up assuming anything between the 2 is the same.
I measured my buddy's '79 K30 and from the front cab body mount bracket to the axle is 30.5" and his axle is moved forward 1" with zero-rates. After redrilling the perches, mine measures about 29.75". That would mean my axle is 1/4" further forward, but I still seems to be more than that. As Chris mentioned I think it was 2" forward and now it's more like 1".
It's hard to get a good picture under a truck with poor lighting. But I loosened up the jam nuts and have the dragink sitting as it should be straight up and down and I have about a 1/4" of clearance.
It would be better if I didn't have the bigger 1.5" tube.
It would be better if I didn't have the bigger 1.5" tube.
Dropping back a little, I finally got the front axle installed this past weekend. Yay! 
I had to get the through-the-frame spring hangers installed. I drilled out the bushing hole with a 2-1/8" diameter hole saw. Then I had to drill 4 mounting holes. I have DIY4x hangers from the General. They used 3/8" bolts originally but in my collection of parts I happened to find a bag of grade 8 bolts 7/16"x1", perfect for the hangers so I figured why not upgrade the bolts. Turns out that was a bad idea. Drilling the holes to 3/8" was quick and easy, but going to 7/16" was a damn fight. Broke 2 bits doing it. By the way, the 1 ton frame is definitely thicker than the K5 frame.
One the hanger was bolted in on the passenger side I had to deal with brake lines. I bent the original clamp out 90 degrees so it will clear the bracket.
The driver side was clear on the back side.
The other thing I had to do was notch the flange of the frame to clear the shackles. The flange on the 2wd frame is a lot wider than 4wd.
The thick white chalk line was what I cut out. The perpendicular lines were my start and stop points. I just swung the shackle and marked where the bolt would hit the frame which gives me plenty of clearance.
I finished the steering ram mount and painted the axle to get it ready for install.
Called it a day at 12:30AM and went home to bed.
After Easter dinner with my wife's family, I went back down to the shop and installed the axle. It went a lot smoother than I expected with the help of a forklift and pallet jack.
Our shop forklift was built in 1943 and we call it Mighty Mouse. Works great despite its age.
I slid the axle under the truck with the pallet jack. Just took a little shifting around and a couple pumps on the handle and the bolts slid in through shackles and bushings.
Here it is sitting on the suspension with jack stands under the axle.
Couldn't resist mocking a tire in place.
My youngest son decided it would be fun to climb into the tire.
Couldn't talk him into letting me roll him around.
:
It really has been a big boost to my enthusiasm getting the axle in. I feel like I'll have it rolling down the road soon.
This weekend I plan to work on the rear axle and suspension install. I measured the front versus the rear and it looks like I need to come up with 8" remembering that at least 3" of that is because of the 2wd rear hangers being shorter.
I had to get the through-the-frame spring hangers installed. I drilled out the bushing hole with a 2-1/8" diameter hole saw. Then I had to drill 4 mounting holes. I have DIY4x hangers from the General. They used 3/8" bolts originally but in my collection of parts I happened to find a bag of grade 8 bolts 7/16"x1", perfect for the hangers so I figured why not upgrade the bolts. Turns out that was a bad idea. Drilling the holes to 3/8" was quick and easy, but going to 7/16" was a damn fight. Broke 2 bits doing it. By the way, the 1 ton frame is definitely thicker than the K5 frame.
One the hanger was bolted in on the passenger side I had to deal with brake lines. I bent the original clamp out 90 degrees so it will clear the bracket.
The driver side was clear on the back side.
The other thing I had to do was notch the flange of the frame to clear the shackles. The flange on the 2wd frame is a lot wider than 4wd.
The thick white chalk line was what I cut out. The perpendicular lines were my start and stop points. I just swung the shackle and marked where the bolt would hit the frame which gives me plenty of clearance.
I finished the steering ram mount and painted the axle to get it ready for install.
Called it a day at 12:30AM and went home to bed.
After Easter dinner with my wife's family, I went back down to the shop and installed the axle. It went a lot smoother than I expected with the help of a forklift and pallet jack.
Our shop forklift was built in 1943 and we call it Mighty Mouse. Works great despite its age.
I slid the axle under the truck with the pallet jack. Just took a little shifting around and a couple pumps on the handle and the bolts slid in through shackles and bushings.
Here it is sitting on the suspension with jack stands under the axle.
Couldn't resist mocking a tire in place.
My youngest son decided it would be fun to climb into the tire.
Couldn't talk him into letting me roll him around.
:It really has been a big boost to my enthusiasm getting the axle in. I feel like I'll have it rolling down the road soon.
This weekend I plan to work on the rear axle and suspension install. I measured the front versus the rear and it looks like I need to come up with 8" remembering that at least 3" of that is because of the 2wd rear hangers being shorter.
Looks good man! You're really knocking this out
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
Great job man. Good to have a boost of motivation. Its well worth it when you roll down the road. First time I did the swap on my CC I went to get gas and a young kid was checking it out and loved it, Said he was working on a 79. Cool to bs with other fullsize guys
Thanks. Not going as fast I'd like.
I've got Blazer Bash looming in what seems like just a few short months already. I want to have some trail time in before heading out to Moab.Thank you. I'm always taking note of the older fullsize lifted trucks I see around town. Not a lot of the older iron; mostly new lifted diesel trucks. Funny thing is with a truck this size I'll have plenty of opportunities for gas station discussions.
Started prepping for the rear axle install today.
I have the hyrdoboost that came factory in my K5 because it was a diesel. The CC has hydroboost as well. I'm going to use the hydroboost from the K5 because it has the Vanco hi-flow treatment done to it. Can I use the master cylinder that's in the CC with the K5's hyrdoboost? Or does the master cylinder need to swap also?
I prefer the master cylinder in the CC because it's the plastic/aluminum style so it's easier to see the level and I just think they look more modern. Just not sure if it will work with the K5 version hydroboost.
FWIW, the K5 is an '84.
I prefer the master cylinder in the CC because it's the plastic/aluminum style so it's easier to see the level and I just think they look more modern. Just not sure if it will work with the K5 version hydroboost.
FWIW, the K5 is an '84.
Scott
A few months ago I thought that I had a hydro boost issue in my dmax. When I called PSC and they told me to just go get a unit from a junk yard, get a grip of o rings rebuild it and put it on to replace mine. I asked what years of dmax would work and he said any make any model their all the same.
Don't know if that is really true but I would say your fine to mix and match parts. Just compare push rod lengths.
That sounds encouraging then. I'll plan on just swapping the hydroboost over and verify it will work by at least taking a few measurements.
