'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

[kgblazerfive]

That's my vote. One tank, one pump, 1/2 the issues.

You could mount it in front of the axle. Cut a square out of the bed put a false floor above it and never know it is there. Just a thought.

 

[skunked]

That's my vote. One tank, one pump, 1/2 the issues.

You could mount it in front of the axle. Cut a square out of the bed put a false floor above it and never know it is there. Just a thought.

I don't think he can do that without sacrificing his bed with the 2 piece driveshaft.

 

[mrk5]

I know your along ways down this road but

Bosch 044 mounted to the frame rail for the win. I hate in tank pumps after learning how to mount outside the tank pumps correctly.

Let me know and I can more than double your engine swap budget with just the fuel system alone.

I'm not opposed to going external but I would be opposed to doubling my budget.

Better just ditch all that muti-tank crap and go with a single tank since you are changing pumps and exh and all that stuff already!

That's my vote. One tank, one pump, 1/2 the issues.

You could mount it in front of the axle. Cut a square out of the bed put a false floor above it and never know it is there. Just a thought.

I don't think he can do that without sacrificing his bed with the 2 piece driveshaft.

Yes, it would have to be all the way up in the bed. I was thinking about getting a 40gal tank from Justin V to mount behind the axle but I don't have room enough for that and the receiver hitch. Using the receiver hitch is the whole reason for installing the 454 in the first place so it's staying.

What I might consider is getting the 454 running with the driver tank alone and then look at adding a 31gal tank behind the axle.

 

[miniwally]

In all seriousness, if you can have flooded suction (pump below the bottom of the tank) the following works;

Tank to 100 Micron prefilter. This needs to be a log style filter, the bigger the better
Prefilter to Bosch 044 fuel pump,
Pump to 10 Micron filter, we use a $20 napa filter head and canister type filter. I can't recall the Number but this is a cheap easy filter.
Filter to pressure regulator, in our case this is up near the engine and has a return line to the tank, we have a returnless rail system on the Buggy/racecar.
Pressure regulator to engine.

That's really kind of it, you can install a check valve after the pump to keep the pressure up at the engine if you want. I think this makes it start a little easier.

 

[mrk5]

I think I can get the pump lower than the tank; at least it would be on level with the bottom of the tank. But the suction line would still be looped up and in through the top of the tank and back down with the suction line sitting at the bottom of the tank. Would that still work as well?

 

[miniwally]

I think I can get the pump lower than the tank; at least it would be on level with the bottom of the tank. But the suction line would still be looped up and in through the top of the tank and back down with the suction line sitting at the bottom of the tank. Would that still work as well?

In theory it does, the siphon effect gets started and all is supposedly well. It might not prime well but once things are started it should work out. Agian this is all easier with fuel cells, but if your getting a new tank and can get hands inside the tank why not drill and put in a bulkhead fitting with statoseals and have fuel outlet right in the bottom of the tank? Hell I would even take your dented up tank and try it out. AN-8 bulkhead fitting with two statoseals and you've got fuel outlet right where you want it.

Just remember electric pumps don't suck well, they push damn good.

 

[kgblazerfive]

I use the stock suction line on mine. Pump is as below the tank as I can get it. Seems to work fine. I got the stuff to do a bulk head fitting just never put it in. Cuz it works fine this way.

 

[mrk5]

In theory it does, the siphon effect gets started and all is supposedly well. It might not prime well but once things are started it should work out. Agian this is all easier with fuel cells, but if your getting a new tank and can get hands inside the tank why not drill and put in a bulkhead fitting with statoseals and have fuel outlet right in the bottom of the tank? Hell I would even take your dented up tank and try it out. AN-8 bulkhead fitting with two statoseals and you've got fuel outlet right where you want it.

Just remember electric pumps don't suck well, they push damn good.

Yes that's true. I'm kinda looking at the dented tank as "trash" anyway. Heck if it works I could go ahead and use it.

I use the stock suction line on mine. Pump is as below the tank as I can get it. Seems to work fine. I got the stuff to do a bulk head fitting just never put it in. Cuz it works fine this way.

What kind of flow/pressure does your EFI require? Mine needs 58psi and if I remember correctly 255lph.

 

[kgblazerfive]

Mine too, does not flow that much but it works. The pump I got is rated at 90.

 

[mrk5]

Good to know. Although I took your advice on the remote starter solenoid and I feel like if I do it here with the fuel system you'll start getting too bossy with me....

 

[Truckman4life]

What I might consider is getting the 454 running with the driver tank alone and then look at adding a 31gal tank behind the axle.

Something like the spare tire auxiliary tank from Titan. It's a fuel tank that mounts in place of the spare on newer diesels and has some kind of pump setup to transfer fuel to the main tank when needed.

 

[mrk5]

I know that I should tell you in your own thread, but if you do that with a permanent magnet starter, you will get a little bit of starter "run-on".. It's due to the starter motor becoming a generator when you let off of the key. It holds the solenoid pulled in until the RPM of the motor drops low enough for the coil to drop out. I'm talking less than a second.
You can learn to ignore it, or change the excite wire for the starter to parallel the one on the remote solenoid, or find a diode that will take being installed on the starter for the excite wire.
BUT ! I don't remember how Pat showed me to tell when you have a permanent magnet starter by a picture.

So in order to get the function I want I could run a wire from the Ford solenoid "S" to the like terminal on the starter. This way I still get the interruption of the battery power to the starter when not in use but won't get the run-on you mention.

 

[6872xtc]

Yes, if that is a permanent magnet starter. You could try it with just the short jumper from the battery stud and see what happens. I have one truck that does it, and one that doesn't, 2 different gear reduction starters.

 

[82355]

Do you have a tool box in this truck?

Martin

 

[mrk5]

Yes. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/89-r...uel-pump-opinions.303347/page-42#post-3514903

 

[kgblazerfive]

Put the tank below the tool box problems solved.

 

[mrk5]

There's only 1/2". Need more fuel capacity than that.

 

[mrk5]

Here's my decision on the fuel pump. I'm going to drop the driver side tank that wasn't having any trouble and put the EP381 in that tank. That way I can see if the fuel system is going to work with the tank selector valve and other existing components. I have read of a few people having trouble with the tank selector valve in the higher pressure fuel system. The success of that will determine what I do with the passenger tank.

On another note, I hate the pre-made spark plug wire sets. I have made them myself in the past using the crimp tool that goes in a vice. Luckily I already have a good ratcheting crimper so I purchased MSD's crimper dies and they fit my crimper.

There's one part for stripping the insulation and another for crimping (the camel hump looking bit). I'm not sure what the round hole at the end is for.

First thing I did was arrange the boots on the cap the way I wanted them.

I routed the wires thru the looms and marked them for cutting at the end of the boot.

I did give myself a little slack.

Before proceeding further remember to slide the boot on. I forgot a couple times until right before I went to crimp the terminal on. A little dielectric grease helps them slide on easier.

The Jegs wires I'm using are single crimp. MSD does make double crimp wires that would have you strip less insulation off. With the single crimp wires the core is going to be folded back over the insulation so you need a fair length of it exposed. I was shooting for about 3/4".

Before crimping the terminals I put a little extra bend in the ends. Not sure this is really necessary but it made me feel better.

The core gets folded back under the terminal

You want about a nickel's width of insulation past the end of the terminal "ears".

Here's the finished crimp.

All done and no excess wire to deal with.

 

[Bent77]

Here's my decision on the fuel pump. I'm going to drop the driver side tank that wasn't having any trouble and put the EP381 in that tank. That way I can see if the fuel system is going to work with the tank selector valve and other existing components. I have read of a few people having trouble with the tank selector valve in the higher pressure fuel system. The success of that will determine what I do with the passenger tank.

On another note, I hate the pre-made spark plug wire sets. I have made them myself in the past using the crimp tool that goes in a vice. Luckily I already have a good ratcheting crimper so I purchased MSD's crimper dies and they fit my crimper.

There's one part for stripping the insulation and another for crimping (the camel hump looking bit). I'm not sure what the round hole at the end is for.

First thing I did was arrange the boots on the cap the way I wanted them.

I routed the wires thru the looms and marked them for cutting at the end of the boot.

I did give myself a little slack.

Before proceeding further remember to slide the boot on. I forgot a couple times until right before I went to crimp the terminal on. A little dielectric grease helps them slide on easier.

The Jegs wires I'm using are single crimp. MSD does make double crimp wires that would have you strip less insulation off. With the single crimp wires the core is going to be folded back over the insulation so you need a fair length of it exposed. I was shooting for about 3/4".

Before crimping the terminals I put a little extra bend in the ends. Not sure this is really necessary but it made me feel better.

The core gets folded back under the terminal

You want about a nickel's width of insulation past the end of the terminal "ears".

Here's the finished crimp.

All done and no excess wire to deal with.

Plug wires look awesome. It is some work, but worth it.

Definitely curious on the pump status. If you get a winner, I might just steal your parts list and redo mine. Wasn't pleased with the results and hoping you have better luck

 

[skunked]

Hope you got your firing order right