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CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
No interference at full throttle? cuz you know that you will need it some day!!I decided the throttle was just too stiff for my taste. I made a little extension for the throttle cable connection. Here's what the throttle arm looks like on the Sniper.
I used the 2 holes marked. I drilled the larger hole to 3/8" so it would fit over the raised shoulder.
It's made with a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum. I moved the hole up about 5/8". It is almost too close to the original linkage to get the nut on but it just fits.
I was uncertain how much of a difference 5/8" change would make but it worked out perfectly. Kinda funny tho because I had gotten used to the feel of the pedal with the stiff spring so now I have to re-learn my foot pressure all over again.
It's all good. Although I noticed when I was checking the TPS on the initial install the pedal will only pull about 85%. May have to look at getting that other 15% in the future. I'm really not a mash it to the floor kinda guy tho.
It can be any pickup as far as I'm concerned; short bed, long bed, flat bed, utility bed, 2 door, 4 door. As long as it has a bed to haul stuff in/on.
that's kind of odd, my pedal has another 1.5-2" before it hit's the floor at 100%. Are you sure the linkage has more travel when you have the pedal on the floor?
I haven't tried again since the initial startup. Maybe the tinkering I've done will have changed things.
This weekend I replaced my ignition cylinder in the steering column. Since we bought the truck, it would start with needing the key in the ignition. I haven't mentioned it before because I didn't want any of you knuckle-draggers messing with my truck on the trail runs. 
A couple weeks ago it jammed up on me and would spring back from the start position so the motor was running with the starter engaged. 
Figured that was a good sign I need to get it replaced. I suspect a screwdriver was used in it at some point.
It was a pretty simple job and only cost me about $30 which included the lock plate tool.
Here's what you have once you remove the steering wheel.
What you see is a plastic cover that just pops off the lock ring. The lock plate you can see below with all the "fingers".
This is where you need the tool. There is a stiff spring behind the plate with a snap ring holding it in place. You have to compress the spring to get the lock ring free.
Here you can see the ring on the shaft just in front of the lock plate:
Here it is pulled out of the groove so you can see the split a little better. I took it out with a couple flat blade screwdrivers.
Now you can see the turn signal cancel cam.
The 2 nubs are what trip the turn signal off.
Next you take the turn signal assembly off. Astute observers might note I'm missing one of the spring clips which is why my turn signal won't cancel on left turns. Apparently a broken spring is common. There are 3 screws to remove the turn signal assembly; 2 are kinda hidden. You have to remove a metal lever that connects to the turn signal stem and the other hidden screw is in the upper right area that can be seen once you click the turn signal out of the way.
The metal lever for the turn signal stem has a groove that the end of the metal piece rides in.
Here you can see all 3 phillips head screws.
Lastly you have to remove the hazard light switch. It has a small phillips screw in the middle.
Threads in here:
You have to gently, but firmly pull the turn signal assembly towards you. You are pulling on the wiring harness so you want to be careful not to damage it. It does take firm pressure tho.
In the next picture you can see a hex head screw that is the only thing holding the ignition cylinder in the column. It has a pin on the end of the screw that holds the cylinder in.
Once the screw/pin is removed the cylnder just pulls out. Below you can see the groove for the pin.
After that install everything in reverse order.
A couple weeks ago it jammed up on me and would spring back from the start position so the motor was running with the starter engaged. Figured that was a good sign I need to get it replaced. I suspect a screwdriver was used in it at some point.It was a pretty simple job and only cost me about $30 which included the lock plate tool.
Here's what you have once you remove the steering wheel.
What you see is a plastic cover that just pops off the lock ring. The lock plate you can see below with all the "fingers".
This is where you need the tool. There is a stiff spring behind the plate with a snap ring holding it in place. You have to compress the spring to get the lock ring free.
Here you can see the ring on the shaft just in front of the lock plate:
Here it is pulled out of the groove so you can see the split a little better. I took it out with a couple flat blade screwdrivers.
Now you can see the turn signal cancel cam.
The 2 nubs are what trip the turn signal off.
Next you take the turn signal assembly off. Astute observers might note I'm missing one of the spring clips which is why my turn signal won't cancel on left turns. Apparently a broken spring is common. There are 3 screws to remove the turn signal assembly; 2 are kinda hidden. You have to remove a metal lever that connects to the turn signal stem and the other hidden screw is in the upper right area that can be seen once you click the turn signal out of the way.
The metal lever for the turn signal stem has a groove that the end of the metal piece rides in.
Here you can see all 3 phillips head screws.
Lastly you have to remove the hazard light switch. It has a small phillips screw in the middle.
Threads in here:
You have to gently, but firmly pull the turn signal assembly towards you. You are pulling on the wiring harness so you want to be careful not to damage it. It does take firm pressure tho.
In the next picture you can see a hex head screw that is the only thing holding the ignition cylinder in the column. It has a pin on the end of the screw that holds the cylinder in.
Once the screw/pin is removed the cylnder just pulls out. Below you can see the groove for the pin.
After that install everything in reverse order.
nice writeup.
Yes very nice for those of us who haven't ever had one apart.
DickeysK5
1/2 ton status
Good job Scott! Luckily you didn't have to replace a broken turn signal switch. You have to take the ignition rack apart and snake the wiring harness through the column. Getting the ignition rack back together correctly is a PIA.
I'm not someone that can just jump into a project without finding everything I can on how to do it. Figure I can help someone else that's like me.
I thought about replacing the turn signal but really didn't want to spend the money since it works just not perfectly. I don't mind missing the hassle you describe either.
I do confess I managed to not get the steering wheel back on straight. Gotta fix that because it's more annoying than I would have guessed.
Drives me crazy
Sounds like you did 93% of a good job
96%
I am betting that he will outrun you, even missing the last bit... whether it's 7% or 4%.....
Oh, and @mrk5 still has more doors!!!!
