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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Overview Gallery Discussion
When I replaced the engine in my 91 V3500 Crew cab with a brand new GM crate TBI 350, I replaced the 4-Qt. oil pan the engine came with, and bought a 5-Qt. Dorman oil pan. I used the High Volume/Standard Pressure oil pump that the new engine came with. I set the oil pump pick-up to oil pan clearance at the maximum 3/8". I then used an oil pump pick-up retaining bracket that holds the oil pump pick-up in place so the oil pump pick-up will not lose the set pan clearance or even completely fall out. I also got a steel sleeved oil pump drive shaft for my oil pump set up too.
 
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Like I said, I really didn't want the HV/HP pump but figured it would be okay with the deeper pan. The pickup for the pump in there now does have a bracket that bolts it to the pump so I don't think the pickup is coming off or anything. I also checked the 1/4"-3/8" clearance to the bottom of the pan. I remember it being closer to 1/4" which is why I wonder if the dent is causing some issues.

I'm going to put a shallower Moroso pan on. I really like the pickup for that pan because it has a bracket that used 2 bolts to hold the pickup on the pump, which is even better than the single bolt I have on there now.

I also HATE the drain plug location on the current pan. It dumps right on the high steer ram and axle so it's impossible to drain without making a freakin' mess. Be glad to get rid of that.
 
Fwiw, I run a stock K30 pan (factory notched pass front corner for D60 clearance) with a Melling high volume pump - I have no issues with pressure loss.
 
I didn't notice the pressure dip the first year of driving the 454 so it's probably a recent development. So then I think on what's changed:
  1. 4l80e/Magnum
  2. Oil (same as before)
  3. Oil filter
  4. PCV valve
  5. Crankcase breather
The crankcase breather is open element K&N, hard for me to see it being faulty. The PCV valve is ACDelco so it should be quality but maybe it could be bad out of the box. The oil filter is Amsoil's brand so again it should be good.

Seems like the filter or PCV valve could be about the only things meaning either one would have been bad out of the box.

The other thing would be some sort of unseen failure like issues with the oil pump pickup.

Honestly the oil all over the axle and pan remind me of the time I put too much oil in the old TBI350 and it blew all that extra fuel out the main seals. On the recent oil change, I filled the filter as much as possible and then put 7qt down the motor. Seems like it should not have been over full as it's advertised as a 7qt pan.
 
I did use the Davesti......err I mean dipstick. :p:

It's the same brand as the pan. It does not have marks tho. I poured in either 6.5qt or 7qt and checked that there was oil on the stick. Thinking back on it more I think I poured in 6qts plus what was left of the bottle I filled the filter with.
 
And I do have a windage tray.

In reading about rear main seal installations, I don't think I put any RTV in these areas.DSCF2942 copy.jpg
sealleak3.jpg

The irony is those are images I kept from about 10 years ago when I replaced the main seal in my old K5. :doah:
 
You probably already know this, but the 2-piece seal also needs to be off-set and not aligned with the rear main cap mating gap.
 
1-ton said:
You probably already know this, but the 2-piece seal also needs to be off-set and not aligned with the rear main cap mating gap.
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Man, don't start doing much reading on that or you'll end up banging your head on the wall. Some people swear by offsetting them, some people say doing that caused the seal to get pinched between the cap and block. Others say they always done it flush and never had a leak. Also some people say they've done it both ways and didn't get leaks. :dunno:

One thing I did read and see a you tube video about was checking the seal end protrusion if you are putting the seal in flush. You measure how much the end of the seal is sticking up above the block and cap. The total of the 2 sides shouldn't be more than 0.015". Apparently it's not uncommon for them to stick up too far which ends up causing the seal to leak. In particular this seemed to be the solution for people that had installed multiple seals and still get leaks. Whether I ultimately offset the seal or leave it flush, I'm going to check that protrusion measurement.
 
mrk5 said:
Man, don't start doing much reading on that or you'll end up banging your head on the wall. Some people swear by offsetting them, some people say doing that caused the seal to get pinched between the cap and block. Others say they always done it flush and never had a leak. Also some people say they've done it both ways and didn't get leaks. :dunno:

One thing I did read and see a you tube video about was checking the seal end protrusion if you are putting the seal in flush. You measure how much the end of the seal is sticking up above the block and cap. The total of the 2 sides shouldn't be more than 0.015". Apparently it's not uncommon for them to stick up too far which ends up causing the seal to leak. In particular this seemed to be the solution for people that had installed multiple seals and still get leaks. Whether I ultimately offset the seal or leave it flush, I'm going to check that protrusion measurement.
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I have always installed mine straight across and never had an issue. I think people may run into an issue with seal “over protrusion” if the block has had the main caps cut down and line bored.
 
Looking back at old pictures I may have a groove on the crank that I need to try and dress up.

2016-12-17 16.51.30.jpg
 
Fastereddie said:
I have always installed mine straight across and never had an issue. I think people may run into an issue with seal “over protrusion” if the block has had the main caps cut down and line bored.
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I know this is a rebuilt block. The owner had claimed it was and then I found the Jasper Engines sticker on it. So it's possible it has been line bored. Although I don't know if Jasper does a lot of machining on them or if they just replace wear parts.
 
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