'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

[folkenheath]

There are oil pump pick ups with a bracket that goes to the pump mounting bolt but I'm not sure if these pick ups are specific to aftermarket pans.

They are specific to a depth yes. The pickup is supposed to be 1/4- 3/8" off the bottom of the pan, most aftermarket pans are 8, 9" depth, etc. His is 9 1/4", so we can't just get him a bolt on pickup unless he bends it or tweaks it or something.

I don't think he will have a problem with a factory pickup assembly, but peace of mind is worth something.

 

[mrk5]

How often do you plan on driving with the motor upside down?

Hopefully none times.

I tacked my pickup on the pump after it fell off on the trail.

Remembering that happening to you is what made me think of doing it. The previous 454 had an aftermarket pan with a pickup that bolted to the pump like @nvrenuf mentioned. I wouldn't go to the effort if the engine was already in the truck, but with it there on the stand I feel like I should take the precaution.

 

[mrk5]

Got the valvetrain all buttoned up. The GenVI has a non-adjustable rockers so I left the bolts off and put in studs to make it adjustable. CompCams sells a kit that reuses the stock rockers but @folkenheath pointed out for an additional $50 or $60 I could buy just the ARP studs and get a set of PRW roller tip rockers. As I mentioned, I've never done a cam swap so adjusting preload was new to me too (other than the one time 25 years ago I tried to do it with the engine running in my 64 C10), but the poly locks that came with the rockers made it really nice. It seemed to me that using the typical lock nuts would have been less forgiving.



I bought a FelPro lower gasket kit that included all the gaskets needed if you wanted to replace the front and rear main seals (including those seals). It was listed on RockAuto for the truck the engine came out of, but it did mention is was for marine application. Didn't think that would be an issue, but apparently the front covers are different.



All of the bumps for the fasteners go the wrong direction and the ends are pointed in instead of out. I got the gasket into the slot but I'm afraid the ends would leak so I ordered a correct replacement.

I still need to clean and paint the block, but I wanted to get the timing chain and heads covered up. I liked how @skunked did his valve covers so after painting, I sanded off the tops of the valve covers. It's a little difficult with the coil mounting bosses. The little discs on the die grinder don't quite fit between them.

 

[Capt Ron]

Looks good, I really wish I would have done a cam swap on my L29 before I put it in the Crawlabago.
What distributor will you be running?

 

[folkenheath]

Looks good, I really wish I would have done a cam swap on my L29 before I put it in the Crawlabago.
What distributor will you be running?

He's using the stock one as a cam sensor/oil pump drive, but deleting the cap and rotor for 8 coils.

 

[sweetk30]

Is the cover gasket just rolled 180* note: your bottom tab is tipped in not out .

 

[6872xtc]

You may find this to be a hack idea, but did you try rolling the timing cover gasket over to see how much it would fight laying into the groove? I know that they are molded, but I would have been curious myself.

 

[Capt Ron]

He's using the stock one

I ask because the stock one is plastic and people have reported them breaking easily.
I think even over tighting the cap screws can make them break.

 

[mrk5]

Is the cover gasket just rolled 180* note: your bottom tab is tipped in not out .

There's a square bit at the top of the arc that is offset so it can only go on one way. Honestly it has been hurting my brain a little trying to figure out if I'm just not seeing it right. But there are different product images so I'm thinking there must be 2 different designs. It does seem odd to me that there would be 2 designs that are kinda like mirror images.

This is the correct one that matches my cover:



This is like the one I have:

You may find this to be a hack idea, but did you try rolling the timing cover gasket over to see how much it would fight laying into the groove? I know that they are molded, but I would have been curious myself.

I would have to put a roll twist in both sides. It would probably work, but I wonder how well it would seal. It seems like there would be a small spot where it wasn't fully seated against the block.

I ask because the stock one is plastic and people have reported them breaking easily.
I think even over tighting the cap screws can make them break.

One of things that set me on the journey of doing the coil near plug was noticing most of the complaints against the L29 were about the distributor cap. I actually broke the factory cap when I was lifting the engine onto the stand. I had the chain in a bad spot.

You reminded me @Capt Ron, I was going to ask if you had any trouble fitting the factory oil pan? I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere, but it just looks big. The pan on the old motor was aftermarket Moroso pan so I'm not used to the factory pan.

 

[mrk5]

I forgot I was going to mention awhile back I had commented about being nervous of the weight of the engine on the stand. Doing valve springs cured me of that after having to lever on the new, stiffer springs.

 

[sweetk30]

VORTEC distributor design does SUCK for problem maintenance and plastic housing . Great id for correct-a-cap tho .

 

[mrk5]

Okay the whole timing cover gasket was really bugging me. I finally just ignored the picture and started at one of the square ends and pushed the gasket in like it's supposed to be not how it was packaged. It went right in.

So it was made right, just packaged wrong. And photographed wrong too.

 

[mrk5]

VORTEC distributor design does SUCK for problem maintenance and plastic housing . Great id for correct-a-cap tho .

Does make the plug wire routing nice and organized looking.

 

[sweetk30]

Does make the plug wire routing nice and organized looking.

coil over plug better with less wire length . and make it look like a LS swap

 

[Capt Ron]

I was going to ask if you had any trouble fitting the factory oil pan?

My engine was in a P30 chassis and had been replaced with a GM crate engine so no telling if it is the same as yours, it looks like most all of the other L29s I have checked out though.
With that being said there is plenty of roomwhen it comes to the oil pan and stock crossmember but there is only about .50 clearence between the crossmember and the crank shaft position sensor.

 

[ZooMad75]

Had the same problem painting the valve covers on the 8.1. I used a palm sander that has a pointed tip. Made it easier but it was still a chore.

 

[mrk5]

Might be an excuse to buy a new tool.....

 

[folkenheath]

One of either of these would work...

1/2" X 18" M12 FUEL™ Bandfile | Milwaukee Tool

MILWAUKEE® M12 FUEL™ 1/2” X 18” Bandfile is the first cordless bandfile that delivers pneumatic performance, size, and features for professionals in automotive, industrial & metalworking

www.milwaukeetool.com

M18 FUEL™ Oscillating Multi Tool Kit | Milwaukee Tool

MILWAUKEE ® M18 FUEL™ Oscillating Multi-Tool generates the fastest cuts, power for demolition, and lowest full tool vibration. The cordless multi-tool has the power to complete demanding applications

www.milwaukeetool.com

 

[mrk5]

One of either of these would work...

1/2" X 18" M12 FUEL™ Bandfile | Milwaukee Tool

MILWAUKEE® M12 FUEL™ 1/2” X 18” Bandfile is the first cordless bandfile that delivers pneumatic performance, size, and features for professionals in automotive, industrial & metalworking

www.milwaukeetool.com

M18 FUEL™ Oscillating Multi Tool Kit | Milwaukee Tool

MILWAUKEE ® M18 FUEL™ Oscillating Multi-Tool generates the fastest cuts, power for demolition, and lowest full tool vibration. The cordless multi-tool has the power to complete demanding applications

www.milwaukeetool.com

I've eyeballed that band file before.....

 

[skunked]

I have the oscillating multi tool and it would work well on the covers.

Lookin good