Anyone know of a place I could get factory style studs that have the nut formed into them? I would like to get new if possible.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Are you looking for a stock application or custom?
For stock your best bet would be dealership
McMaster carr probably has what you need
I just need 1 or 2 to use for the block grounds. I like putting one on the back of each head and from past experience it's hard to get a bolt back there after the engine is installed. A stud makes it easier. I will check McMaster and see what they have.
Although thinking about it more, I could just use bolts and install the ground straps now on the engine stand. Last time I was trying to do it after the fact.
In other news, I just discovered the thermostat for the L29 is application specific. I wanted to use one like pictured below, but it won't fit in the opening of the intake.
Correct version:
Although thinking about it more, I could just use bolts and install the ground straps now on the engine stand. Last time I was trying to do it after the fact.
In other news, I just discovered the thermostat for the L29 is application specific. I wanted to use one like pictured below, but it won't fit in the opening of the intake.
Correct version:
Newer t-stats open heater core flow with lower half . Thats why there funky now over older style .
Real short bolts and a ratchet wrench make it not too difficult.
I don't know, last time I cursed a blue streak trying to thread a bolt in the back of the block.
You know those don't actually have to go there. LOL You can put them somewhere easier to get to.
could you use a stud and put a nut on it? or all thread?
Maybe, but I'm old and stubborn.
I have done that before. I just thought it would be cool if I could find the factory style. Here's what I'm talking about:
Couple examples with a little orange paint on them.
Since I couldn't use the thermostat I wanted to, I got an application correct version that is supposed to be high flow. I drilled holes in the flange. There's not much room for them.
I installed the fuel rail before installing the lower intake. I might have made an error. If you look in the picture below at the back of the engine, there's the end of the fuel rail and the fuel pressure regulator housing. If you look down below the regulator housing between fuel lines, you will see the hole for the rear most intake bolt. I'm not sure I'll be able to get the bolt in there. I'll probably have to pull the fuel rail. I hate risking damage to the orings with multiple R&R's.
You don't need all the bolts on the intake it'll be fine no big deal
Maybe I missed it - why did you drill 4 holes in the thermostat? Is trapped air that big if an issue on your truck? If it is to purge trapped air, no concerns that 4 holes might allow too much water to bypass the thermostat negating it's purpose?
Are those 3/8? or M8? we stock them in M8 at work...
Vaseline the o-rings and you shouldn't have any issues. Done that plenty of times.Maybe, but I'm old and stubborn.
I have done that before. I just thought it would be cool if I could find the factory style. Here's what I'm talking about:
View attachment 467303
Couple examples with a little orange paint on them.
View attachment 467304
View attachment 467305
Since I couldn't use the thermostat I wanted to, I got an application correct version that is supposed to be high flow. I drilled holes in the flange. There's not much room for them.
View attachment 467306
I installed the fuel rail before installing the lower intake. I might have made an error. If you look in the picture below at the back of the engine, there's the end of the fuel rail and the fuel pressure regulator housing. If you look down below the regulator housing between fuel lines, you will see the hole for the rear most intake bolt. I'm not sure I'll be able to get the bolt in there. I'll probably have to pull the fuel rail. I hate risking damage to the orings with multiple R&R's.
View attachment 467307
The usual thermostat I run comes with the holes so I was matching that setup. It's (3) 3/16" holes but I didn't think I had enough room so I started with (4) 1/8" but then I thought 3/16" might fit and it did. I drilled out (3) to the larger size.
I read somewhere the reason for the holes and it has to do with running a high flow water pump. Now I can't find what I read. I do know some people do it for the air bleeding, but there were reasons beyond that.
I'd also heard a cooling trick for big blocks is to drill the bypass holes and then run a smaller diameter bypass hose. I'm curious to try that out as well. I'm always looking for more cooling.
They are 3/8". This engine is one those crossover deals where some stuff is SAE and others metric. So far the stuff that threads into the block is SAE.
I actually bought a special oring lube, Parker Super O-lube. We fought with injector orings when we were trying to fix the Sniper and tore a couple so I wanted a good lube. It does work well. It is very slickery and also oddly tacky.
I learned about the Vaseline trick in the Navy from the shipyard guys. They were doing some repairs in our engine room and asked if we had any. I told him no, and he said something along the lines of, "No wonder you guys have leaks!"
Reading a little more about the thermostat in the L29, my little bypass hose might be a bit pointless. This thermostat closes off the coolant bypass as it opens.
The reason why I heard about the holes in the thermostat was to ensure flow of coolant past the sensing bulb of the thermostat. I have usually just done two 1/8" ones to avoid excessive flow at temperatures below thermostat opening.
And one suggestion that I have for the ground is to buy a short stud or make one from allthread which lets the ground terminal be directly against the head or wherever you attach. This makes it sit tight against the surface and lessens the possible points of corrosion by 1.
And one suggestion that I have for the ground is to buy a short stud or make one from allthread which lets the ground terminal be directly against the head or wherever you attach. This makes it sit tight against the surface and lessens the possible points of corrosion by 1.
