CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Anyone know of a place I could get factory style studs that have the nut formed into them? I would like to get new if possible.
I'm pretty sure I have a few used ones. I could get them in the mail tomorrow if you like.
 
From reading thru L29 info, I've seen a lot of complaints about the factory fuel pressure regulator. I've decided to run aftermarket unit. I was looking into how to bypass the regulator and someone mentioned using this ICT 5.3L bypass: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084KN6CHH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

61VUhhk6DfL._AC_SX679_.jpg

It fit perfect.

20240210_122951.jpg

Incidentally, I was able to get the last intake bolt installed without pulling the fuel rail. I left the fuel lines unbolted and I could move them out of the way far enough.

Got the cam sensor installed, aka capless and rotorless distributor. EFI Connection sells the blank caps.

20240210_165054.jpg

I noticed today the fuel lines are point to the driver side but the truck lines are on the passenger side. Have to see how it looks in the truck. I'm not sure 90° fittings will fit with the firewall. I've also been thinking about replacing the factory fuel lines, so that might make things easier now.
 
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I'm not sure 90° fittings will fit with the firewall.
It is a super tight fit. I used flexible lines and went down the drivers side. I forget, are you still running dual tanks and the fuel switch valve?
 
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It is a super tight fit. I used flexable lines and went down the drivers side. I forget, are you still running dual tanks and the fuel switch valve?
It's a single suburban tank, so I could run lines on either side.

Another thing I'm debating about is using studs to mount the upper plenum. Seems like it would be easier to R&R that way.
 
From reading thru L29 info, I've seen a lot of complaints about the factory fuel pressure regulator. I've decided to run aftermarket unit. I was looking into how to bypass the regulator and someone mentioned using this ICT 5.3L bypass: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084KN6CHH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

View attachment 467445

It fit perfect.

View attachment 467444

Incidentally, I was able to get the last intake bolt installed without pulling the fuel rail. I left the fuel lines unbolted and I could move them out of the way far enough.

Got the cam sensor installed, aka capless and rotorless distributor. EFI Connection sells the blank caps.

View attachment 467443

I noticed today the fuel lines are point to the driver side but the truck lines are on the passenger side. Have to see how it looks in the truck. I'm not sure 90° fittings will fit with the firewall. I've also been thinking about replacing the factory fuel lines, so that might make things easier now.

Did you remember to phase the rotor so the falling edge is on the correct orientation to TDC from the compression stroke relative to the sensor?
 
Did you remember to phase the rotor so the falling edge is on the correct orientation to TDC from the compression stroke relative to the sensor?
Yes and no. I remembered to phase it but I went off memory on the degrees and figured out later I'm off by 60° because I forgot to add in the reference angle.

I will fix that and I was thinking I should post up that process here.
 
Yes and no. I remembered to phase it but I went off memory on the degrees and figured out later I'm off by 60° because I forgot to add in the reference angle.

I will fix that and I was thinking I should post up that process here.
Sounds like some megasquirt shit
 
Sounds like some megasquirt shit

He's converting to CnP, the stock distributor is just a cam sensor in this case, but it tells the ECU which cylinder and cycle you are on so it's pretty important, just like putting any distributor in is. Maybe slightly less because the timing is still controlled by the crank sensor, so accuracy is less important (rather large window to work with), but it could still be very bad if it fired the wrong cylinder at the wrong time.
 
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Why are you wasting all that time on that intake? Get to the swap meet and find yourself a tunnel ram!

I scavenge those bolts with studs when I cut up old trucks. At least I use to.

Martin
 
I came across an idea I would love to do the other day if I ever found a deal, Ramjet 502 intake.

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Uses the same fuel rail. I'd have to find the throttle body too. Looks like the throttle linkage is funky too.
 
also check marine stuff for that intake stuff .

this is over the top but why not i say .... its for a sbc in a boat but if you found one for a big block hold on for fun . and yes thats 2 .... two ... whipples on 1 intake for those who don't know boat stuff .

1707785583517.jpeg
 
Ramjet intake is an awesome idea. I’m not sure but the throttle body looks pretty similar to the L98 or LT1 twin blade throttle bodies.

Though I’m betting if you found the intake it’s more than likely going to come with a throttle body attached.

Watch the marine stuff as many times they had cast iron intakes instead of aluminum. Not a boat guy so I’m don’t know the reason behind that logic.
 
Watch the marine stuff as many times they had cast iron intakes instead of aluminum. Not a boat guy so I’m don’t know the reason behind that logic.
Probably corrosion. Joints with dissimilar metals should not be anywhere near saltwater unless you use special coatings to prevent corrosion.
 
You can buy the RamJet intake from Chevy Performance but it's bout $1100 for the upper and lower. Found a throttle body on Jegs for $420. It would be expensive, but not insanely so.
 
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