The non-AC idler is a smaller diameter however more importantly, it's mounted much lower. Your belt is a lot closer to the tensioner.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I thought you had AC?
To add to the belt saga, I looked at the old belt that was on the engine and it is a different part number. According the RockAuto the old belt is for the same setup with the addition of being dual battery.
New belt I have:
Old belt:
It's just 1/2" difference between them. Why dual batteries would affect belt size with all else being the same.
I could see maybe if the alternators were different but the descriptions imply otherwise.
I see what you mean. I had to go double check, I do have about 1/2" of clearance between belt and tensioner. I thought it might stretch a little after the engine has run.
To add to the belt saga, I looked at the old belt that was on the engine and it is a different part number. According the RockAuto the old belt is for the same setup with the addition of being dual battery.
New belt I have:
ACDELCO K061000HD Gold / Professional; Heavy Duty
w/ Single Battery; w/o Air Pump; w/ A/C; w/ 124 Amp, 140A. Alternator
Effective Length 100.01"
Outside Circumference 100.58"
Old belt:
ACDELCO K061005HD Gold / Professional; Heavy Duty
w/o Air Pump; w/ Dual Battery; w/ A/C; w/ 124 Amp, 140A. Alternator
Effective Length 100.54"
Outside Circumference 101.11"
It's just 1/2" difference between them. Why dual batteries would affect belt size with all else being the same.
I could see maybe if the alternators were different but the descriptions imply otherwise.
No AC (not yet anyway) and my belt is 92.2" per rockauto specs. Your setup might be fine the way it is, I just thought it was worth a mention.
I think I might be dumb about starter wiring. This is my attempt at wiring a remote relay:
Aren't I just double triggering solenoids? I think the purple wire to the starter shouldn't be there and I should have a jumper between the posts on the starter solenoid.
I guess it works since it's been like this for at least 7 years but now I'm in wire clean up mode.
Aren't I just double triggering solenoids? I think the purple wire to the starter shouldn't be there and I should have a jumper between the posts on the starter solenoid.
I guess it works since it's been like this for at least 7 years but now I'm in wire clean up mode.
i see the belt problem ....... needs a YORK air compressor kit there were the a/c pump would be .
and as said you didnt need that whole delete bracket and pulley setup . just the lower pulley and belt like the other posted a pic of .
and as said you didnt need that whole delete bracket and pulley setup . just the lower pulley and belt like the other posted a pic of .
I actually do hope to put A/C in this truck. I have the compressor that came on the motor and hopefully it's functional.
Wiring not right
The trigger wire is actually is connected to the battery lug on the starter and it gets its power from that. So when you trip the remote solenoid and it sends power to the starter which then also trips the trigger.
Make sense ?
The trigger wire is actually is connected to the battery lug on the starter and it gets its power from that. So when you trip the remote solenoid and it sends power to the starter which then also trips the trigger.
Make sense ?
If it has been working, why F with it?
You will only want to eliminate the excite wire to the starter for a short jumper if you DON'T have a permanent magnet gear reduction unit. Otherwise, you get run-on of the starter motor after releasing the key.
So an old school Delco unit it fine with it, but not a permanent magnet unit.
Been there, done that.
You will only want to eliminate the excite wire to the starter for a short jumper if you DON'T have a permanent magnet gear reduction unit. Otherwise, you get run-on of the starter motor after releasing the key.
So an old school Delco unit it fine with it, but not a permanent magnet unit.
Been there, done that.
Can't be a perm magnet starter to jump from main lug to signal terminal.
FIFY
Why would you add another failure point? Two relays are twice as likely to fail as one. I am not a fan of the whole Ford external starter relay deal.
My BIL spent an hour in the snow changing his F150 starter 15 years ago, I walked out when he was about done and he hits the key and nothing, he was quite disappointed. I said, turn the key on and leave it on, he did it with a puzzled look. Then I proceeded to jump the relay on the firewall with a metal scraper on the end of his wire brush, and it started right up, the look on his face was priceless. He carried that wire brush with him until he could get the new part.
My BIL spent an hour in the snow changing his F150 starter 15 years ago, I walked out when he was about done and he hits the key and nothing, he was quite disappointed. I said, turn the key on and leave it on, he did it with a puzzled look. Then I proceeded to jump the relay on the firewall with a metal scraper on the end of his wire brush, and it started right up, the look on his face was priceless. He carried that wire brush with him until he could get the new part.
I understand your POV on adding a potential failure point, however I have seen International trucks with 3 relays in series for the starter engagement power. I have only had to replace one or two in 16+ years.
Personally, I like that fact that there isn't power down there at all times, but that isn't a concern very often anyway.
You BIL truck wasn't the solenoid that failed it was the ignition switch.
The dual relay, allow for more current to the starter solenoid, esp when hot. The original path for the starter signal current is long and many connections. A couple of decades later voltage drop and current drop across the many connections, only needs to close the 1st relay in a much cooler spot.
All modern cars and trucks are this way now. Most will crank until start with just a bump of the key, or your quick push of a button.
I have to change the routing of the cables between relays and I'll need longer cables. If I can save a bit of heavy gauge wire, that would be a plus.If it has been working, why F with it?
You will only want to eliminate the excite wire to the starter for a short jumper if you DON'T have a permanent magnet gear reduction unit. Otherwise, you get run-on of the starter motor after releasing the key.
So an old school Delco unit it fine with it, but not a permanent magnet unit.
Been there, done that.
The reason I put the relay in was so the battery cable to the starter wasn't always hot. It was inspired from watching @ktmoutfront boil down a battery on the trail when his cable shorted out on the frame.
There Is no power at my conventional magnet starter.
I have the start terminal jumped the main lug, and the heavy cable on the normally open side of solenoid.
I have the start terminal jumped the main lug, and the heavy cable on the normally open side of solenoid.
You mean the ignition switch in the column? That wasn't it, it was the external relay on the firewall that I bypass jumpered with that piece of metal. Once he replaced that it worked fine with the same ignition switch. The old starter likely wasn't even bad. This was probably a late 90s or possibly early 2000s F150 with the old mod motor that would blow coils and head gaskets back when you still had to hold the key down to crank it.
I agree on the rest, most modern vehicles the ignition switch just gives the computer the signal to start the car now. And I agree on the older stuff as well, if you have a weak ignition switch it may not give full power to the battery, but some wiring diagrams above aren't just supplying more direct power to the battery, they are adding another interrupt to the main starter cable. Your diagram eliminated that.
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I think for that you would want a master cutoff like they require in NHRA so it kills the engine and all electrical power with one switch. Thats required if you move the battery from the stock location, or once you go faster than 10 sec or 135 MPH in the quarter.
If this is an early triton motor 97/98 up. They have a solenoid gm style starter. While I have R&R'D hundreds of them , only a handful were bad. I did not find it a difficult job.
Mid nineties ford's I had to replace multiple ignition switches on tall the trucks several times. The 98 up only had 1 ignition switch recall, and they got the redesign right that time.
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Did they move the ignition switch to the firewall on the passenger side? That's where this part was, whatever it is called, looked like a large relay to me.
No it was on the column under dash, started many fires. The part you are describing sounds like a normal Ford N/O relay. I suppose if the Triton engine had a gm style starter, jumping fender solenoid the signal would provide enough current to activate the starter's solenoid, with out actually activating the fender relay. I am pretty sure Ford did away with those fender relays by the early 2000's. I think it was a left over from the previous starter w/o the built in solenoid.
