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89 V2500 Burb- Camping rig

Muddy, which way did you have to open the holes? In towards the center or out?


I wanna say I had to go in with them. There are probably pictures in my build thread.

Even if you elongate the holles, if the flex plate is a dished 4L60E type you still need to address the converter pilot to crank interface


Yep, you might need the same spacer and bolts I did. Also in my build thread.
 
I'll take a peak under mine today and see eat I did. Maybe yours is funky cause it's a 6.0 that was originally mated to a 4l60e. So maybe that's an odd duck flex plate?
 
Very very little progress Im sad to say. I did get my old style fuel tank modified with the newer emissions componenets and got the tank back in and fuel lines routed. But, I just got married and all the wedding planning and wedding spending moved the burb down a few spots on the list. I just popped the hood today for the first time in months... now I need to figure out where I left off. I just want to get it running so I can move it out of my driveway and clean out my garage!
 
Good enough! I'min the pro cess of putting a new headliner in mine and it is kicking my ass so far!
 
I did that in mine and it was a pain in the ass for me too. I should mention too that the headliner I put in mine is already separating from the plastic shell... very frustrating. I plan to raise hell about it.
 
Hopefully mine was just an anomal. Mine is also manufactured by acme auto. I called today and they are going to replace mine but it still sucks cause its such a pain to install.
On another note I thought I had my wiring complete enough to try to fire the motor but no luck. I have found some discrepancies in my wiring schematic and what I labeled during the removal of the old motor... so now I'm a little frustrated. It should be soon simple since I have the super simplified wiring harness from bd turnkey. I hate wiring.
 
Wired up the motor at least as far as I think it needs to be to run yesterday and today. I bled off all the air in the fuel lines and have good pressure. Then went to try to start it and it turns over but no fire! I'm confused again. I can't think of what else it needs to run. The motor came with a very simplified harness which requires only 4 wires to run. I don't get it. I might just unhook everything and just run the harness straight to the battery to see if I can at least hot wire the motor to make sure it still runs. Any suggestions?? From anyone? Thanks
 
Wired up the motor at least as far as I think it needs to be to run yesterday and today. I bled off all the air in the fuel lines and have good pressure. Then went to try to start it and it turns over but no fire! I'm confused again. I can't think of what else it needs to run. The motor came with a very simplified harness which requires only 4 wires to run. I don't get it. I might just unhook everything and just run the harness straight to the battery to see if I can at least hot wire the motor to make sure it still runs. Any suggestions?? From anyone? Thanks


Hmm, is everything grounded correctly? I'm just grabbing at straws here. Mine had the opposite problem when I first fired it, power, but no crank. Turned out to be a mislabeled wire in the painless body harness.
 
Might be the easiest way to make sure the computer is working right. But, Your fuel pump is run off the computer right? Where it runs for a few seconds and then shuts off? That would be an indicator that the computer is right. Your harness was all labeled right? So you shouldn't have gotten any wires mixed up. Are you sure the crank position connector above the starter is plugged in snug?
 
Also, make sure that you didnt wire it up to a wire that is only hot in in the run position. Some wires that are hot in run, are not hot in start. I used my suburbans original coil power feed wire to trigger my ECM as i knew it would be hot in run and start for sure!
 

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