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9.5" 14 Bolt Semi Float Diff cover option

venevidivicci

70 K5
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It finally happened to me. I ran my SF 14 Bolt over the wrong rock and it peeled back my stock steel diff cover. It took 8 years but it was time to upgrade the diff cover. A long time ago before Crane changed hands they did make a diff cover for it but they have not in years, I have searched long and hard to find a steel and not aluminum cover with no success until now.

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To give you a little background I have a 1970 K5 with a swapped 6 lug 9.5" Semi Float 14 bolt from a 1989 C2500. It has 4.10 gears from the factory and I had sourced a GM factory H2 e-locker back when you could get them for cheap. I used to work with a differential shop owner who told me he had swapped a few of these into the front axle in the newer Dodge Ram 2500 and up that uses the "AAM 9.25" solid front axle. This led me to do more research on the front axle which turns out is a slightly modified case in order to run the 3 link suspension but otherwise identical to the housing on my rear axle.

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Now for my write up. I found two companies that make a nodular iron diff cover for the AAM 9.25" front axle. AEV and SOLID Axle Industries. I did like the "inspection cover" that the AEV diff cover offers but at 3x the price of the $80 SOLID axle diff cover I thought I would give theirs a try. Plus it has a lifetime warranty which the AVE cover says nothing about. I ordered it in and started by drawing a template for the cover and the bolt holes which revealed that the bolt in the 3 o'clock location is in fact the difference in the case.

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This did not bother be too much because it is in the upper half of the case and it looked like there was plenty of meat to drill and tap into. As long as the clearance on the ring gear was acquitted I figured I had struck gold being as no one makes a diff cover for my direct application except for a welded kit for double the price or a cast aluminum one that wouldn't hold up.heres some more comparison pics

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I used some plumbers putty I had leftover to check for clearance on the ring gear and carrier. There were only two places where it really even contacted the cover with easily a 1/2" thick of plumbers putty I figure that is more than enough. If my carrier and ring gear deflect that much I have much worse problems ahead. This was done without a gasket and not torqued but snug with a wrench.

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89CBDB81-A230-4437-84D8-5D5CD19079EA.jpeg This left me dealing with the difference in bolt pattern. Withe the cover in place and all the bolts installed I center punched the housing, drilled and tapped the M8-1.25 threads. As you can see there is plenty of mounting surface and a thin wall between the two holes. I thought about filling the other hole but figured the gasket surface before the hole should seal it enough. If the hole was in the lower portion of the case I would have used some Lab metal or JB weld to fill the hole and create a flat machined surface

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I was very happy with the clearance so I moved on to sealing the beast. Now you have a couple of options here one of which is using the stock AAM 9.25" front axle housing gasket that is steel with rubber which I'm sure is a fantastic gasket but has two downfalls first is over $50 at your local parts store and would create a gap between the housing and the diff cover allowing rocks to still catch on the lip of the diff cover potentially cracking or chunking out the flange on the cover. I however opted to use a paper gasket from the 1989 C2500 and gasket sealant so that the two surfaces are as close together as possible. (I may in fact come back with an angle grinder and flap disc to match the two surfaces later on.) You could also just use a silicon gasket maker but I believe strongly that if there is a gasket or you can make a gasket you will be better off.

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I hope this helps for anyone out there that has been looking for a differential cover for their 9.5" SF 14 Bolt.

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Here is a pic of the Dodge AAM 9.25 for reference

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Looks good to me!

Am I mistaken, or based on the location of that bolt, couldn't they just manufacture the cover with both bolt holes? Would seem to be a good way to increase market appeal!
 
Looks good to me!

Am I mistaken, or based on the location of that bolt, couldn't they just manufacture the cover with both bolt holes? Would seem to be a good way to increase market appeal!
I'm going to reach out to them to let them know how close it is. I'm sure they just don't know. The lower lip is contoured to the AAM axle so it does not match exactly with the GM 9.5" housing but is within about 1/8" along the bottom.
 
Either make a dual pattern cover, or for snobs that don't want something "generic" fitting, move the bolt hole and reduce that lip from whatever manufacturing process they already have, and sell it specifically for the 14SF. If there are no steel alternatives out there, they should be interested in filling that void. I'd think anyways...
 
Neat swap!..
That one hole being "off" is weird,if they made those 2 diffs "so" close,why have one bolt not line up ?...patent infringement maybe ?...

You could have tapped the "extra" hole in the cover and put a allen head bolt in the hole ,cut short so it didn't protrude beyond the over,to better seal any potential oil leaks,but I dount it will leak as it is anyways..
 
Am I mistaken, or based on the location of that bolt, couldn't they just manufacture the cover with both bolt holes? Would seem to be a good way to increase market appeal!

Might get into the "dome" part of the cover

Hell, I would have just thrown it on with some extra "the right stuff" and run it 13b style :D

The flange of the cast cover look fairly flat in the pictures. Don't see why that same casting couldn't receive 2 different drill patterns. The bolt hole is moving further from the "dome", not closer. How much was drilling the cover evaluated compared to drilling the differential housing?

Truth is, a lot of parts interchange between the GM 9.5 and the AAM 9.25.
 
Is that bracket with welded on 1/2 washer all that's needed to put the "H2" version of the e-locker in a regular 9.5 axle instead of the "non-H2" version? I've been looking for answers to that for some years. Now if only I could find the e-locker without buying a whole H2 rear axle.....
 
Yes. You need a “retaining bracket” that does not come with the H2 locker. The factory uses a drilled and tapped bearing cap identical to the passenger side. They use a “wire retainer” just like the backlash adjusting ring retainer on the passenger side.

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